27 replies to this topic

[MrSimba]

went to help view a VXT today and made a few notes before I went & thought we could update a 'checklist' for new owners to use

Please feel free to add / edit to make it as complete as possible.

******

Body

Check panel gaps
Check the soft top / hard top seals tightly to the windows.
Soft top condition, check seams for tears, check cables for tightness & fit.
Check every panel for scratches / bubbling / cracks.
Check for overspray on grills / inner arches / inner sills
Check both doors open from both the outside & the inside!
Gently lift the door to check for play in the hinge
Check bonnet / boot release freely
Take a 13mm spanner & torch with you, remove the headlights and check inside of the front clam for accident damage.
Whilst lights out check for HID's or standard bulbs.
Look underneath front clam for scrape marks or 'grounding'
Is the exhaust heat sheild still there?
Check bottom corners of doors, edges of bonnet, being GRP these are easily damaged.
Check windscreen for stonechips
Check lights for stone chips / exsessive misting / water ingress.
Tyres check for uneven wear, remaining tread.
Wheels check for curbing / scuffing

Front bonnet

Is the locking wheel nut present?
Covers on fusebox / relay box?
tyreweld can present?
Does the radiator look like its been used as a tool tray! are the cooling fins bent or 'as new'?
Does the radiator have plastic or alloy ends? bonus for all alloy radiator!
lift the washer bottle & check battery condition & check no acid has ever been spilled from it onto chassis.
Check level & condition of brake / clutch fluid

Engine bay

Check condition of expansion tank, is it yellowed & cracked?
Check coolant level
Check oil level & colour
Check heatshiled for rattles
Remove boot carpet & look for water / body repairs to inner clam.
If possible check tension on aux belt
Check for non-standard items in engine bay & identify.

Exhaust, standard or aftermarket?

Interior

Does the drivers seat 'rock' when you try to move it?
Check ALL gauges & switches work, check lights / wipers / hazard lights / indicators / trip re-set on stack dash ect.
Check all dash lights including EML / ABS come on and go off when car is started.
Check drivers seat bolster for wear.
Check plastic sill covers for cracks / damage
Check heater dials move freely and with full range
Does the steering wheel feel 'tight' check for play in universal joint.
Panel behind seats which the soft top bars clip into check for damage / cracks.

Remove the wheels

Check for chassis damage - particularly on wishbone mounting points
Check rear wishbone tops for 'dinks' or marks where it has contacted chassis, especially if running low ride heights.
Suspension, Standard or Aftermarket?
Check coil mounts on suspension for any signs of cracking
Visually check brake pad thickness
Visually check rubber bushes on wishbones / front ARB
Visually check for any damage to toe-links
Ask owner if uprated (10.9) hub carrier bolts fitted?
Ask owner when the car was last Geo'd

whilst car is jacked up look at undertrays for any signs of damage.

Mechanical checks

Check engine is cold & start the car, does it start easily?
listen for knocking, excessive tapping, or bad mechanical noises!
Check clutch for slippage
Let engine warm up & check engine fan comes on / check temp fan comes on.
when warm check for excessive blue / white smoke from exhaust & identify.

***
IF POSSIBLE TEST DRIVE, BUT ONLY AFTER SHOWING PROOF OF FULL COMPREHENSIVE INSURANCE WITH THE VEHICLES REGISTRATION CONFIRMED ON PAPERWORK, AND FURTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF OF IDENTITY TO THE CARS OWNER, YOUR PASSPORT / DRIVING LICENCE ECT.

***
Paperwork

CHECK THE V5 IS IN THE SELLERS NAME / ADDRESS
Check chassis number / engine number is correctly listed
DO AN HPi CHECK!
Service history? - No matter the milage yearly or 10,000miles minimum!
Check ALL recipts
Is the 'Red' immobiliser card present?
Is the locking wheel nut number present?
Is the stereo 'code' present?


******

Edited by MrSimba, 01 January 2013 - 02:27 PM.

[wbanixon]

A very helpful guide MrSimba

[GiGo]

Thata a good list

[ArticMonkey]

People actually let you jack the car and take the wheels off? Not heard of that before.

[MrSimba]

Actually I'd ask the seller to jack the car & remove the wheels! But if looking at a 'cat' listed car its a check I'd insist on!

Edited by MrSimba, 01 January 2013 - 03:47 PM.

[Boombang]

Might be a good one to add that - if a Cat repaired car, ask for comprehensive photos of damage and rebuild.

Is the exhaust heat sheild [sic] still there? - Small typo there.

If you are checking Tyreweld is there, you also need to check the age as doesn't last forever in the can.

For Service History could also add timing belt for turbo - TIS recommends 4 years or 40k miles (should be taken as a maximum). Should check receipts to prove tensioners and water pump has been done at same time.
For Service History could also add timing chain for n/a - Pre engine number 11065400 (roughly up to 2003) had a smaller oil jet which can block. Later cars should be fitted with larger type. Either can however fail and any tapping noises from the chain on startup should be assessed carefully. Lifespan of a timing chain is generally up to 100k miles, although many owners change far before this.

Make sure engine is cold when you arrive, to ensure no cold start problems are being hidden. Rattle/ticking on startup from cold can be timing chain, exhaust manifold, or tappets.

[Rickwoo118]

A good comprehensive guide. Not sure if the owners or garage selling the car will let you take out headlights, wheels off etc. it makes sense though.

[MrSimba]

Might be a good one to add that - if a Cat repaired car, ask for comprehensive photos of damage and rebuild.

Is the exhaust heat sheild [sic] still there? - Small typo there.

If you are checking Tyreweld is there, you also need to check the age as doesn't last forever in the can.

For Service History could also add timing belt for turbo - TIS recommends 4 years or 40k miles (should be taken as a maximum). Should check receipts to prove tensioners and water pump has been done at same time.
For Service History could also add timing chain for n/a - Pre engine number 11065400 (roughly up to 2003) had a smaller oil jet which can block. Later cars should be fitted with larger type. Either can however fail and any tapping noises from the chain on startup should be assessed carefully. Lifespan of a timing chain is generally up to 100k miles, although many owners change far before this.

Make sure engine is cold when you arrive, to ensure no cold start problems are being hidden. Rattle/ticking on startup from cold can be timing chain, exhaust manifold, or tappets.

Cheers Boombang - Will update list with those very good points

Anyone else also please feel free to amend / add to the list, the 'aim' is to between us all compile one list for new owners to use as a guide, how much they take from it is for them to decide, but I know I'd much rather show my car to a potential purchacer with the wheels removed & headlights out than give them the keys for a 'test' drive!!!

[MrSimba]

Updated.

******

Body

Check panel gaps
Check the soft top / hard top seals tightly to the windows.
Soft top condition, check seams for tears, check cables for tightness & fit.
Check every panel for scratches / bubbling / cracks.
Check for overspray on grills / inner arches / inner sills
Check both doors open from both the outside & the inside!
Gently lift the door to check for play in the hinge
Check bonnet / boot release freely
Whilst lights out check for HID's or standard bulbs.
Look underneath front clam for scrape marks or 'grounding'
Is the exhaust heat shield still there?
Check bottom corners of doors, edges of bonnet, being GRP these are easily damaged.
Check windscreen for stonechips
Check lights for stone chips / exsessive misting / water ingress.
Tyres check for uneven wear, remaining tread.
Wheels check for curbing / scuffing

Front bonnet

Is the locking wheel nut present?
Covers on fusebox / relay box?
tyreweld can present? - though will need changing every few years anyway!
Does the radiator look like its been used as a tool tray! are the cooling fins bent or 'as new'?
Does the radiator have plastic or alloy ends? bonus for all alloy radiator!
lift the washer bottle & check battery condition & check no acid has ever been spilled from it onto chassis.
Check level & condition of brake / clutch fluid

Engine bay

Check condition of expansion tank, is it yellowed & cracked?
Check coolant level
Check oil level & colour
Check heatshiled for rattles
Remove boot carpet & look for water / body repairs to inner clam.
If possible check tension on aux belt
Check for non-standard items in engine bay & identify.

Exhaust, standard or aftermarket?

Interior

Does the drivers seat 'rock' when you try to move it?
Check ALL gauges & switches work, check lights / wipers / hazard lights / indicators / trip re-set on stack dash ect.
Check all dash lights including EML / ABS come on and go off when car is started.
Check drivers seat bolster for wear.
Check plastic sill covers for cracks / damage
Check heater dials move freely and with full range
Does the steering wheel feel 'tight' check for play in universal joint.
Panel behind seats which the soft top bars clip into check for damage / cracks.

Mechanical checks

Check engine is cold & start the car, does it start easily?
listen for knocking, excessive tapping, or bad mechanical noises!
Check clutch for slippage
Let engine warm up & check engine fan comes on / check temp fan comes on.
when warm check for excessive blue / white smoke from exhaust & identify.

***
IF POSSIBLE TEST DRIVE, BUT ONLY AFTER SHOWING PROOF OF FULL COMPREHENSIVE INSURANCE WITH THE VEHICLES REGISTRATION CONFIRMED ON PAPERWORK, AND FURTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF OF IDENTITY TO THE CARS OWNER, YOUR PASSPORT / DRIVING LICENCE ECT.

***
Paperwork

CHECK THE V5 IS IN THE SELLERS NAME / ADDRESS
Check chassis number / engine number is correctly listed
DO AN HPi CHECK!
Service history? - No matter the milage yearly or 10,000miles minimum!
Timing belt for turbo - TIS recommends 4 years or 40k miles (should be taken as a maximum). Should check receipts to prove tensioners and water pump has been done at same time.Check ALL receipts.
Timing chain for n/a - Pre engine number 11065400 (roughly up to 2003) had a smaller oil jet which can block. Later cars should be fitted with larger type. Either can however fail and any tapping noises from the chain on startup should be assessed carefully. Lifespan of a timing chain is generally up to 100k miles, although many owners change far before this.
Ask owner if uprated (10.9) hub carrier bolts fitted?
Ask owner when the car was last Geo'd?
Is the 'Red' immobiliser card present?
Is the locking wheel nut number present?
Is the stereo 'code' present?

Extra checks

If possible ask the owner to -

Remove the headlights and check inside of the front clam for accident damage.

Remove the wheels & check for chassis damage - particularly on wishbone mounting points
Check rear wishbone tops for 'dinks' or marks where it has contacted chassis, especially if running low ride heights.
Suspension, Standard or Aftermarket?
Check coil mounts on suspension for any signs of cracking
Visually check brake pad thickness
Visually check rubber bushes on wishbones / front ARB
Visually check for any damage to toe-links

whilst car is jacked up look at undertrays for any signs of damage.

******

Edited by MrSimba, 01 January 2013 - 05:04 PM.

[Wolfstone]

Great checklist Si.

[mark moyz]

When i purchased my Vx the toe eye bar thing was missing from the front and i only noticed this after the purchase so i think either the front end was replaced on the cheap or the bar was pulled out at some point still i probably would of purchased but pressed for more money off the asking price.

[MrSimba]

Excellent point Mark, forgot that & will add to checklist!

[MrSimba]

Updated.

******

Body

Check panel gaps
Check the soft top / hard top seals tightly to the windows.
Soft top condition, check seams for tears, check cables for tightness & fit.
Check every panel for scratches / bubbling / cracks.
Check for overspray on grills / inner arches / inner sills
Check both doors open from both the outside & the inside!
Gently lift the door to check for play in the hinge
Check bonnet / boot release freely
Look underneath front clam for scrape marks or 'grounding'
Is the exhaust heat shield still there?
Check bottom corners of doors, edges of bonnet, being GRP these are easily damaged.
Check windscreen for stonechips
Check lights for stone chips / exsessive misting / water ingress.
Tyres check for uneven wear, remaining tread.
Wheels check for curbing / scuffing

Front bonnet

Is the front tow eye present?
Is the locking wheel nut present?
Covers on fusebox / relay box?
tyreweld can present? - though will need changing every few years anyway!
Does the radiator look like its been used as a tool tray! are the cooling fins bent or 'as new'?
Does the radiator have plastic or alloy ends? bonus for all alloy radiator!
lift the washer bottle & check battery condition & check no acid has ever been spilled from it onto chassis.
Check level & condition of brake / clutch fluid

Engine bay

Check condition of expansion tank, is it yellowed & cracked?
Check coolant level
Check oil level & colour
Check heatshiled for rattles
Remove boot carpet & look for water / body repairs to inner clam.
If possible check tension on aux belt
Check for non-standard items in engine bay & identify.

Exhaust, standard or aftermarket?

Interior

Does the drivers seat 'rock' when you try to move it?
Check ALL gauges & switches work, check lights / wipers / hazard lights / indicators / trip re-set on stack dash ect.
Check all dash lights including EML / ABS come on and go off when car is started.
Check drivers seat bolster for wear.
Check plastic sill covers for cracks / damage
Check heater dials move freely and with full range
Does the steering wheel feel 'tight' check for play in universal joint.
Panel behind seats which the soft top bars clip into check for damage / cracks.

Mechanical checks

Check engine is cold & start the car, does it start easily?
listen for knocking, excessive tapping, or bad mechanical noises!
Check clutch for slippage
Let engine warm up & check engine fan comes on / check temp fan comes on.
when warm check for excessive blue / white smoke from exhaust & identify.

***
IF POSSIBLE TEST DRIVE, BUT ONLY AFTER SHOWING PROOF OF FULLY COMPREHENSIVE INSURANCE WITH THE VEHICLES REGISTRATION CONFIRMED ON PAPERWORK, AND FURTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF OF IDENTITY TO THE CARS OWNER, YOUR PASSPORT / DRIVING LICENCE ECT.

***
Paperwork

Check chassis number / engine number is correctly listed on V5
CHECK THE V5 IS IN THE SELLERS NAME / ADDRESS
DO AN HPi CHECK!
Service history? - No matter the milage yearly or 10,000miles minimum!
Timing belt for turbo - TIS recommends 4 years or 40k miles (should be taken as a maximum). Should check receipts to prove tensioners and water pump has been done at same time.Check ALL receipts.
Timing chain for n/a - Pre engine number 11065400 (roughly up to 2003) had a smaller oil jet which can block. Later cars should be fitted with larger type. Either can however fail and any tapping noises from the chain on startup should be assessed carefully. Lifespan of a timing chain is generally up to 100k miles, although many owners change far before this.
Ask owner if uprated (10.9) hub carrier bolts fitted?
Is the 'Red' immobiliser card present?
Is the locking wheel nut number present?
Is the stereo 'code' present?

Extra checks

If possible ask the owner to -

Remove the headlights and check inside of the front clam for accident damage.

Remove the wheels & check for chassis damage - particularly on wishbone mounting points
Check rear wishbone tops for 'dinks' or marks where it has contacted chassis, especially if running low ride heights.
Suspension, Standard or Aftermarket?
Check coil mounts on suspension for any signs of cracking
Visually check brake pad thickness
Visually check rubber bushes on wishbones / front ARB
Visually check for any damage to toe-links
Ask owner when the car was last Geo'd?

whilst car is jacked up look at undertrays for any signs of damage.

******

Edited by MrSimba, 01 January 2013 - 08:09 PM.

[mbes2]

Very good list of checks..... also good even if your not selling....

[slindborg]

Why is 'asking when the GEO was last done" important? unless something gets bent, its not gonna change.

[Hark]

Check chassis number / engine number is correctly listed on V5

Is it worth also adding where these are found for new owners? I know that it is available in another thread.

[MrSimba]

Why is 'asking when the GEO was last done" important? unless something gets bent, its not gonna change.

Good point, as said it was 'my' checklist & something I'd ask but can see why it's not a 'must check' will amend!

[MrSimba]

Check chassis number / engine number is correctly listed on V5

Is it worth also adding where these are found for new owners? I know that it is available in another thread.

Will add that info, any NA owners want to post up where the NA engine number is located? I only know the VXT and thats a bitch to check!

[MrSimba]

Updated.

******

Body

Check panel gaps
Check the soft top / hard top seals tightly to the windows.
Soft top condition, check seams for tears, check cables for tightness & fit.
Check every panel for scratches / bubbling / cracks.
Check for overspray on grills / inner arches / inner sills
Check both doors open from both the outside & the inside!
Gently lift the door to check for play in the hinge
Check bonnet / boot release freely
Look underneath front clam for scrape marks or 'grounding'
Is the exhaust heat shield still there?
Check bottom corners of doors, edges of bonnet, being GRP these are easily damaged.
Check windscreen for stonechips
Check lights for stone chips / exsessive misting / water ingress.
Tyres check for uneven wear, remaining tread.
Wheels check for curbing / scuffing

Front bonnet

Is the front tow eye present?
Is the locking wheel nut present?
Covers on fusebox / relay box?
tyreweld can present? - though will need changing every few years anyway!
Does the radiator look like its been used as a tool tray! are the cooling fins bent or 'as new'?
Does the radiator have plastic or alloy ends? bonus for all alloy radiator!
lift the washer bottle & check battery condition & check no acid has ever been spilled from it onto chassis.
Check level & condition of brake / clutch fluid

Engine bay

Check condition of expansion tank, is it yellowed & cracked?
Check coolant level
Check oil level & colour
Check heatshiled for rattles
Remove boot carpet & look for water / body repairs to inner clam.
If possible check tension on aux belt
Check for non-standard items in engine bay & identify.

Exhaust, standard or aftermarket?

Interior

Does the drivers seat 'rock' when you try to move it?
Check ALL gauges & switches work, check lights / wipers / hazard lights / indicators / trip re-set on stack dash ect.
Check all dash lights including EML / ABS come on and go off when car is started.
Check drivers seat bolster for wear.
Check plastic sill covers for cracks / damage
Check heater dials move freely and with full range
Does the steering wheel feel 'tight' check for play in universal joint.
Panel behind seats which the soft top bars clip into check for damage / cracks.

Mechanical checks

Check engine is cold & start the car, does it start easily?
listen for knocking, excessive tapping, or bad mechanical noises!
Check clutch for slippage
Let engine warm up & check engine fan comes on / check temp fan comes on.
when warm check for excessive blue / white smoke from exhaust & identify.

***
IF POSSIBLE TEST DRIVE, BUT ONLY AFTER SHOWING PROOF OF FULLY COMPREHENSIVE INSURANCE WITH THE VEHICLES REGISTRATION CONFIRMED ON PAPERWORK, AND FURTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC PROOF OF IDENTITY TO THE CARS OWNER, YOUR PASSPORT / DRIVING LICENCE ECT.

***
Paperwork

Check chassis number / engine number is correctly listed on V5
Chassis number is on a plate on the NS & visible through the windscreen, it is also stamped into the chassis behind the OS front wheel.
2.0 Turbo engine number is located on the side of the block at the rear facing the bulkhead where the engine mates to gearbox (left hand side as you look into engine bay.

2.2 NA Engine number is stamped into the oil filter housing

CHECK THE V5 IS IN THE SELLERS NAME / ADDRESS
DO AN HPi CHECK!
Service history? - No matter the milage yearly or 10,000miles minimum!
Timing belt for turbo - TIS recommends 4 years or 40k miles (should be taken as a maximum). Should check receipts to prove tensioners and water pump has been done at same time.Check ALL receipts.
Timing chain for n/a - Pre engine number 11065400 (roughly up to 2003) had a smaller oil jet which can block. Later cars should be fitted with larger type. Either can however fail and any tapping noises from the chain on startup should be assessed carefully. Lifespan of a timing chain is generally up to 100k miles, although many owners change far before this.
Ask owner if uprated (10.9) hub carrier bolts fitted?
Is the 'Red' immobiliser card present?
Is the locking wheel nut number present?
Is the stereo 'code' present?

Extra checks

If possible ask the owner to -

Remove the headlights and check inside of the front clam for accident damage.

Remove the wheels & check for chassis damage - particularly on wishbone mounting points
Check rear wishbone tops for 'dinks' or marks where it has contacted chassis, especially if running low ride heights.
Suspension, Standard or Aftermarket?
Check coil mounts on suspension for any signs of cracking
Visually check brake pad thickness
Visually check rubber bushes on wishbones / front ARB
Visually check for any damage to toe-links

whilst car is jacked up look at undertrays for any signs of damage.

******

[JG]

Nice wish list. I think i reality, you'd do well go get a seller to remove wheels and remove lights. I wouldn't let anyone do it to my car though i would happily do it for them. The point being though that I wouldn't let anyone do it if i couldn't do it too. The liability on both counts would be too complicated. Imagine if a light slips from the potential buyers grasp. Or if they hurt themselves in the process. Just not worth it. Plenty of buyers who will buy without going through that process. Like it or not most people buy on the strength of the seller (and rightly so) as well as the quality of the car.