28 replies to this topic

[cs_]

You have another option: cut the yellow-black wire going to contact B12 of the instrument and put a switch into the wire which you may locate on the dash. You may then deactivate the ABS light. It's only an LED with a resistor inside the instrument going to +12V, the other side pulled down to ground by the ABS unit to light the LED. Breaking the wire (or switch it open) cuts the current from the LED. Problem solved.

[cs_]

Just forgot: usually a ABS failure will go away automatically if the wheel signals are plausible again (after driving some meters!). So if the LED stays on even if the fourth sensor is plugged in again, check wiring for cuts, breaks, other failures.

[Ouchie]

The MOT tester will want to see the ABS light turn on then off along with the other lights when you switch the ignition on.

[cs_]

The you will have to put the sensor back on again or use a switch for the sensor line. If you switch on and drive some 50m the light must go off if all is OK. Personally I would prefer not to hassle with the sensor lines because they are sensitive for all kinds of noises. So even with a switch line you could get noises on the lines leading to the ABS getting confused and dropping the error light. I am using the Lotus Exige ABS for almost 2 years now and I do not want to switch it off at all anymore. No dangerous loss of brakes, it works a lot faster and even allows minor blocking of the wheels if you want. It works so smooth you sometimes think it's your own braking skill that controls the wheels on a trackday. For me this is the only option coping with the ABS issues.

[MaDFreeBiRD]

Right its all fixed and properly. I took it into uni as i have three hours in the workshop on wednesday mornings. I used a "reflex" something or other diagnostic tool in the OBD port. Bearing in mind this was the third OBD reader i had tried i was very skeptical of this working. However it gave me the desired results, told me which wheel sensor wasnt working, it was the rear right. This would have been the last of the three wheels i was going to check so it saved me a lot of time. Well as suspected, it was a wire that had become disconnected. I was going to solder a new bit of wire in, but the wire had some kind of coating on it that woudlnt allow solder to take. To remedy this i used a crimping tool and a connector, then used a bit of shrink wrap over the top of the new connection, electric taped it all back up connected it up, wheel back on and jobs a gooden I cleared the faults on the car and retested to make sure, did a nice little test drive too and the light stayed off! Now all i have to do is put the "proper" number plate on and sort a time where it can go back for a retest.

[luke.]

Good to hear man I need something like that as when mine was plugged in for lambda sensor my ABS light was on and it didn't even register on the scanner

[MaDFreeBiRD]

Good to hear man

I need something like that as when mine was plugged in for lambda sensor my ABS light was on and it didn't even register on the scanner

Im pretty sure that the ABS system in the VX is separate from the engine management stuff. That was why i had an issue with two other diagnostic readers.

I will find out what the name of the one i used was, i have the feeling it was expensive though. Then again a Snap on Modus couldn't read the ABS data, i think that may have been more user error in all honesty.

[techieboy]

Yep, different ECU's. The cheapo OP-COM software can talk to both though.

[jimmyfloydreturns]

Aaaand the ABS light is back on again At least I know which wheel to remove....