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Car Won't Start


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#21 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:05 PM

As above, Check the fuel rail test point to see if there is fuel there. Then take the plugs out, put them in the coil pack and earth the threaded part of the plug onto the engine and turn the car over. You should see if the plugs are sparking.

#22 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:20 PM

Can't imagine all of the plugs have terminally expired at exactly the same time, so don't think it will be those.

Did you ever check to see if you were getting fuel at the fuel rail?


Willing to give it a try. How exactly please?

#23 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:23 PM

On the fuel rail there should be a little plastic cap covering a schrader valve like on tyres. Press this in and fuel should come out under pressure. Use a cloth to stop it spraying on you and dont smoke at the same time

#24 techieboy

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:23 PM

I'll defer to Zoobeef here as it might be slightly different on the turdo engine.

#25 techieboy

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:24 PM

On the fuel rail there should be a little plastic cap covering a schrader valve like on tyres. Press this in and fuel should come out under pressure. Use a cloth to stop it spraying on you and dont smoke at the same time

:yeahthat:

Turn the ignition on and off a couple of times to make sure the pump (tries to) pressurises the fuel line.

#26 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:30 PM

Cheers. Definately fuel in there!! I can hear (what I assume) is the fuel pump priming after about 5 seconds with the ignition on. But still won't start. Is there any joy to be had from looking at the fuel relays in the boot, or does pressure in the fuel rail indicate all is well?

#27 techieboy

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 05:37 PM

Did it let out a good jet of fuel when you tried the valve? If so, that's probably enough to say that the fuel pump is fine and it's getting fuel as far as the injectors. In which case, it can't imagine it will be the fuel pump relay. Definitely no warning lights on the dash? Battery is still okay, charge wise? Have you checked the various earthing points in the engine bay, in case something has come adrift/broken?

#28 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:15 PM

I tentatively poked it, and some fuel came out. So now I've gone back and given it a good poke, but fuel dribbled out. So I turned the ignition on, and could hear a whirring noise (fuel pump?) after about 4 seconds. Pressed the valve again, but nothing seems to be coming out. Should the fuel pump pressurise the rail with the ignition on, so that there's a strong squirt?

#29 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:19 PM

I tentatively poked it, and some fuel came out. So now I've gone back and given it a good poke, but fuel dribbled out. So I turned the ignition on, and could hear a whirring noise (fuel pump?) after about 4 seconds. Pressed the valve again, but nothing seems to be coming out. Should the fuel pump pressurise the rail with the ignition on, so that there's a strong squirt?


Yes should be a good squirt once the ignitions on

#30 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:22 PM

Standard warning lights on the dash before fire up. Namely, handbrake, oil and EML. But as the car won't start, I can't get to a point where all the lights go out (or not!) Regarding the battery. Its not been changed in the 4 years I've had the car, and I had the feeling it was getting a bit lazy over the winter. But it does turn the engine over satisfactorily, and surely it would have enough juice to prime the fuel lines? Regarding earth points in the engine bay. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Edited by Horace, 23 March 2011 - 06:31 PM.


#31 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:29 PM

I'm with Techieboy on the probability of 4 sparkplugs going down at the same time being unlikely. They're most likely the originals anyways, so no harm in changing them on a 53 plate with 50k on it. Mr. ZooBeef: The lead to the coilpack does not allow for much manoeuverability. Would the engine hoist point at the left hand side of the head be a good earthing point to test for spark? It looks like alloy?

#32 PaulCP

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:39 PM

I know you've already tried it, but since it's an easy thing to do press the fuel cut off switch again and then re-test for fuel pressure in the fuel line.

#33 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:40 PM

If its bare alloy and not painted then that will work.

#34 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:48 PM

Tried the fuel cut off switch again (which I'm assuming is the rubber circular push switch installed face up in the left rear of the engine bay. Still no pressure. Gonna try the spark plug check tomorrow as it's now too dark outside for fettling. Thanks for all the suggestions chaps.

#35 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:51 PM

Spark plug one will be good just to eliminate those. Not having pressure is a good pointer though. Fuel pump relay would be a good place to check see if power is getting down to the pump

#36 Zoobeef

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:55 PM

Do you have fuel in the tank. Or are you parked on a slant? I may be back in Donny this weekend. Not sure yet but could pop over to barnsley if i am

#37 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 06:59 PM

Do you have fuel in the tank. Or are you parked on a slant?

I may be back in Donny this weekend. Not sure yet but could pop over to barnsley if i am


Tank is half full (must be an optimist). Car is in lincolnshire, so no slants!!

Offer of popping over muchly appreciately, but unfortunately the car is sat on the drive in Newark

#38 Horace

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 07:37 PM

Having read this thread: Starting issues

I think it might be wise to invest in a new battery before I try anything else. Thoughts?

#39 vocky

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 07:39 PM

have you checked the fuel pump relay in the boot :unsure:

#40 FLD

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 07:53 PM

This sounds familiar! I had starting issues ages ago. When you press the fuel rail valve you should have a good metre jet! Mine cleared the car and went up the wall of the house! What I was finding was that the internal valves in the pump had failed. The pump primed but the pressure went straight away. Was a slag to start. Have a try at this....turn on the ignition and listen for the pump priming. DO NOT TRY TO START IT. Turn it off. Do this on / off routine several times and hopefully it should retain enough pressure. Then try to start it. If it starts the pump will run continuously and you'll be fine. Let us know how you get on. After swapping my pump its been fine. I also noticed how loud the old pump was compared to the new one. If it is your pump let me know as I have a cliffie pump to fit (been on the to do list for ages) so my old one will be going spare.




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