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#1121 oakmere

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 09:14 PM

Post cat lambda is dead i think. Mine changes voltage yours is static at 0.4 volts. Nick your intake temps are through the roof on the last two power runs? The first was much lower and power much higher.

 



#1122 Rosssco

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:32 AM

Worth checking the chargecooling system (primarily the water pump) is still working.



#1123 siztenboots

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:34 AM

0.4v for cat lambda is normal



#1124 oakmere

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:37 AM

0.4v for cat lambda is normal

May be my cat is on the way out?

#1125 oakmere

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:39 AM

Worth checking the chargecooling system (primarily the water pump) is still working.

I thought this IAT 90+ degrees C somthing has got to be wrong!

#1126 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:59 AM

Posted Image

 

 

with and without CAT



#1127 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 07:59 AM

Posted Image

 

 

with and without CAT

 

top graph with a CAT

bottom graph from cold getting hot without CAT


Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 19 July 2013 - 08:01 AM.


#1128 Exmantaa

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:10 AM

Posted Image

 

 

with and without CAT

 

top graph with a CAT

bottom graph from cold getting hot without CAT

 

Are you sure? Looks more like bottom is with CAT; shifts like the 1st O2 sensor until the cat is warmed-up...



#1129 oakmere

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:25 AM

I have just looked at my O2 sensors on the scanguage. O2 primary switching .8 - .2 volts secondary switching but .4 - .1 volts. My secondary is well out of the flow with an extender which may account for the lower than .4 volts. But if I hit the accelerator the secondary O2 voltage jumps up so the voltage changes with acceleration and deceleration. Nicks seemed to be fixed at .4 volt and didn't change?

#1130 Exmantaa

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:30 AM

Is there anywhere to post longer logs on the forum? Nick's 2 short ones don't show very much...  (besides 90*C intake temps? :huh:)

And do I see 6-7 degrees of KR in that power run? Please retard ignition a bit before you damage your pistons and start with a safe AFR...  

(you can change the WOT target AFR's simply to 11.2 or so for the first WOT runs. You get more safety marging If the map is too lean. When you're getting near 11.2, simply change your target AFR back to what they were (11.8?) and continue fine tuning.)



#1131 NickB787

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:32 AM

yeo I did, I got a reply last night and he is worried about my IAT's

 

Hi Nick, Thanks for the data. No, this is also a Harrop running on a Z22SE, but this one only has a modified inlet camshaft, he is still using the OEM exhaust cam. He is driving the Swish Lotus championship, with his VX, so the car is pushed very hard. Yes the high outside temps of course do not help, but if I look at your file 'going home' I see very high inlet and coolant temperatures. This is normal if the car has been standing still for a while, but what worries me is the temps do not come down when you start driving again. Inlet temperatures above 70C when driving slowly are much too high. Also your coolant temperature is getting much too high. Hum I do not know what is wrong, but the temps are really high. Yes we are getting there, but I think an extra part throttle fuel learning session will improve this. I managed in the end but ended up with a P0140 PID codeThe P0140 is because you do not have a working second lambda sensor. If you look in the log files you see no activity from the second lambda sensor. I did see you did use the wideband data to correct WOT fueling. The AFR in 'powerrun2' is almost perfect now. But there is still very much nock retard active. The ECU is retarding your ignition to below 5 degrees. This is not good, a normal Harrop setup will run somewhere in the range of 17-20 degrees ignition advance. By the way, the inlet temperature before the start of this power run was above 82C (180F)... Normally by now we would start the fine tuning, but in this case the engine is running much too hot. I think the hot running must first be solved before it makes any sense to go further with the calibration. I would strongly advice you not to do a track day with the high temperatures showing in the logs. A solution could be to install a much larger pulley, this would lower the boost and probably also the temperatures. If with the larger pulley the temperatures do come down, probably the knock retard will also be gone and we can probably advance the ignition to what it should be. I would not be surprised if the engine will make much more power with the larger pulley and lower boost. I am sorry I do not have a more positive story to tell at the moment. Kind regards, Peter  

 



#1132 NickB787

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:41 AM

what the heck it wrong?

 

the cc pump is working, it never used to get above warm temps now it's hot I know we never used to have IAT post supercharger before but I can't figure it. I wonder what davemate is getting and what pulley he has on I am only on 2.9inch 



#1133 smiley

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:45 AM

I also think a 2.9 harrop pully on our stock M62 manifold is just to much. 

Try a bigger one, if you can switch easily.



#1134 Exmantaa

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:50 AM

Check the basics, as the water temp in an SC-cc system never gets really "hot". And certainly not during normal road driving... 

So first is your cc-system plumbed up ok?  No mix-up witth car coolant tubes? it flows when pump is switched on and engine not running? (bridge your relay to check)

Then maybe check if your SC-bypass opens during idling etc, as a closed bypass valve may lead to increased IAT's.

 

My mate runs a 80mm pulley on his Harp to keep the IAT's under control, but still reaches 80+*C on hard tracking...



#1135 CocoPops

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:50 AM

Is the charge cooler pump definitely running? Is it pushing or pulling the water through the system?

#1136 siztenboots

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:52 AM

could you have the polarity wrong on the tmap sensor



#1137 NickB787

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:53 AM

Check the basics, as the water temp in an SC-cc system never gets really "hot". And certainly not during normal road driving...  So first is your cc-system plumbed up ok?  No mix-up witth car coolant tubes? it flows when pump is switched on and engine not running? (bridge your relay to check) Then maybe check if your SC-bypass opens during idling etc, as a closed bypass valve may lead to increased IAT's.   My mate runs a 80mm pulley on his Harp to keep the IAT's under control, but still reaches 80+*C on hard tracking...

how can I check the sc bypass is open? I might change to an 80mm pulley

#1138 NickB787

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 08:55 AM

With ign on CC is running pumping water around the system no way I could hook the pipes up wrong as they are different lengths

#1139 oakmere

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 09:12 AM

On the first power run you posted Nick the IAT was fine but on the second two it vas very high. What was different at this point?

#1140 siztenboots

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 09:13 AM

bad earth , causing Vref to float ?






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