1497 replies to this topic

[NickB787]

one thing Peter said was don't kill me but he noticed when the fan was on driving home that the iat's were going up, looks like the fan is pulling hot air through the cc rad wired up wrong

 

I tried to check it with the scangauge but for some reason it's not working

[Rosssco]

one thing Peter said was don't kill me but he noticed when the fan was on driving home that the iat's were going up, looks like the fan is pulling hot air through the cc rad wired up wrong

 

I tried to check it with the scangauge but for some reason it's not working

 

So for that to happen, the fans must be drawing air downwards throught the engine radiator onto pre-rad? If this is the case, I guess its only happening in stop-start traffic, and once up to speed, the airflow coming into through the front will overcome the backwards airflow by the fans.

 

Disconnect the fans and try again..

[NickB787]

There were connected the wrong way around I can't believe it's been like that for years and never noticed now the fan is set to come on at 97 not 116ish it was drawing hot air into the cc rad                                             

enough said

Edited by NickB777, 19 July 2013 - 09:45 AM.

[smiley]

I tried to check it with the scangauge but for some reason it's not working

 

you can use a set of pliers for a quick test.

 

[NickB787]

cheers I got it working it was having a glitch day just like me nice to know though

Edited by NickB777, 19 July 2013 - 09:47 AM.

[VXT Tim]

I'm surprised it made that much difference really. Hope that sorts it.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Are you still going hotel nick

[NickB787]

just sorted the car am about to leave

[oakmere]

Do a nice long fuel learn low boost low rpm.

[techieboy]

just sorted the car am about to leave

 

Fingers crossed for a nice safe, uneventful journey.

[Nev]

Ditto from me too. I have heard about getting the wires mixed up on the fans before from someone, probably very easily done I am sure.

[smiley]

 probably very easily done I am sure.

 

50% change of getting it right or wrong.

[techieboy]

100% chance of getting it wrong, if you don't read the guides on here, as ProAlloy supply them wired the "wrong" way around from the factory.

[oakmere]

Hope you arrive safe and sound Nick. I am sure you will get lots of helpfull input when you arrive.

[NickB787]

Just arrived car felt good only thing laptop died before leaving home, so no. Logging or learn mode, temps stayed below 100 so fan is working correctly and cc temp is tepid now, only down side is I think the secondary fuel pump maybe on its way out. Something near where it is placed was mocking a noise when stuck in traffic for a while but got quieter when normal driving speeds

[smiley]

Just arrived car felt good only thing laptop died before leaving home, so no.

 

Email Peter for your obd ecu code.

If anybody else with a laptop present, they can download the software, and you can use that laptop. 

[NickB787]

Wow Peter is good, I explained what happened about the fan also mentioned my suspicions about the fuel pump and he had noted the AFR going up after 6700 his thoughts were fuel or maybe plug gap on the spark plugs. I need to be extra careful I will not track it don't want to melt the pistons. Since chill is here I will work with him on learning the system.

[oakmere]

Gaps too big and spark blowing out? Be very carefull re-gaping the denso plugs and don't remove them from a hot engine.

[NickB787]

I wont touch the plug gaps, 

 

Peter wrote

 

 

[color=rgb(31,73,125);][font="calibri, sans-serif;"]Above 6700 rpm it still looks like the engine is running lean. Does the engine still run smooth above 6700 rpm or is it misfiring?[/color][/font]

 

[font="calibri, sans-serif;"]seemed ok above 6700 but am worried how can it be running lean[/font]   Bosch 044with 1ltr swirlpot I can't figure it, on the run to Wales the Bosch when stuck in traffic got really noisy then got less noisy when I got running again. My first thought was maybe it's dying but it seems they are known for there noise. I could change both in tank (ok 10 years old now but not really working hard) and 044(I like my setup)

 

 

second comment

 

[color=rgb(31,73,125);][font="calibri, sans-serif;"]There still is a lot of nock retard going on at WOT, this can also be caused by something hitting the chassis. For instance the exhaust hitting the frame can be interpreted as knock by the ECU. Please make sure nothing mounted to the engine is hitting the chassis, before we proceed.[/color][/font]

 

Got me thinking, I have a 2ublar 4-1 into cvat with NO flexi bit between, I will check to make certain it's all tight (Backbox could do with a tighten I think) could this lack of flex be adding to the knock reading. I also plan to check the knock sensor itself I know I changed it when I went back to the z22se ecu setup from the z20let one. I have been told to make certain it is fitted one way with the tail at 9 o'clock also I see it should be at 23nm torque

 

 

I did a learn session all the way back from Wales lots of green boxes and programmed the ecu

Edited by NickB777, 21 July 2013 - 08:38 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

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