Found some youtubage too, ok its foreign but pics paint a fahhhsand words
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rw9yzCcF-Ww
Tools needed:
http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165469
They have instructions, but they are like this and frankly shoite
http://www.gunson.co...nstructions.pdf
Small spanner (I just use a small AFS as I can never remember the size of the bleed nipples)
Tubing to fit the bleed nipples
Brake fluid capture device (I use a 'one man bleed' pot as its got the right tube and big pot
)Items Needed
Brake fluid of choice
Time
Spare wheel with the tyre pressure NO MORE than 15psi... I use 10psi. If you use it at over 20Psi you will screw the easybleed up.
Bonus item
Syringe, and accept its the first/last time you will use it! Brake fluid ruins them
Procedure.
Starting at the pax rear, then I goto the Drivers rear and then pax front and finally drivers front. Might be 'wrong' but I'd never had issues with my route.
Wheel off
Dust cover off the bleed nipple (
)loosen the nipple (
)pop the tubing on the nipple (
ok I'll stop now)Use the syringe to pull as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible, top up with new fluid.
Fit the right sized easybleed cap with fittings onto the brake fluid reservoir
Fill the easybleed container approx 3/4 full with shiney new fluid. Tighten bottle onto the cap (not the other way round!)
put the easybleed valve onto the tyre.
Go back to the corner you are bleeding.
Open up the nipple and await the fluid to flow out.
If changing old minging fluid then its pretty obvious when thats gone as it will go from black to clear/blue/red/WTF colour your new fluid is.
If bleeding after changing lines/caliper off etc, await NON bubbly fluid to come out.
If changing recent/clear fluid, then you will have to use your own judgement on when its through.
Periodically shut the nipple and open it again.
ALSO CHECK THE EASYBLEED CONTAINER FOR THE LEVEL!!!!!!!!!!! you dont want to be bleeding air into the system
First time I used one I managed to sodastream the fluid.Go round the car doing the bleed. I like to do 2 laps if you have enough fluid to do so.
Top Tip: if you are going from minging old fluid to new super spangly expensive stuff, I suggest using a compatible cheap n cheerful fluid to do the initial flush and then run the nice stuff through.
Its wise to bleed the clutch after the brakes.
Into the engine bay, ontop of the gearbox is a nipple.... same procedure as brakes, done.
ensure all nipples are tight.
remove tyre valve
remove reservoir cap, syringe out the excess to get the level right.
Refit everything else.
Test the brake pedal
Hope that helps
I'm sure some kind person will add pics too
I've heard some people needing to 'invert' their calipers when bleeding, I take it the easibleed machine eliminates the need to do this??
) of the engine. There will be two black pipes running over the top of the box near the engine... Thats pretty much where that drawing on the TIS is showing you.....
, now the brakes feel much more progressive, just brushing the pedal to scrub any excess speed off rather than properly pushing it. I think boiling them at Oulton happened because of the age/state of the fluid, this may have caused the air bubbles as well but the performance of them at Castle Combe wasn't compromised (well I didn't think so), will be good to see how they compare at Bruntingthorpe in a couple of weeks though.
The clutch also feels lighter as well now, this may be a figment of my imagination though as I don't drive the car every day, all good and one of the best bits of kit I've bought in a long time, 
