138 replies to this topic

[Dave E]

Sorry for the dumb question but can you mix an ester based oil like gulf competition with an oil like the Triple QX above or Fuchs Titan Supersyn

[fezzasus]

I really wouldn't recommend mixing oils if you can avoid it, the additives can destabilise one another and result in much less protection than either on their own. The cold start properties may be adversely affected too because the combination of different base oil types could lead to low temperature gelling.

 

That said, if you need to top up with oil then it's better to have two different types of oil than run low.

[Dave E]

Cheers

Edited by Dave E, 04 July 2013 - 10:27 AM.

[Mopeytitan]

By far one of the best write ups ive read.

 

think I learnt more in last hour reading this than ive learnt in my life. haha.

 

what oil would you recommend for stage 2 s/c?

[fezzasus]

Same as a normal vx. Fuchs Titan sypersyn 5w-40 or shell helix ultra 5w-40

[fezzasus]

If anyone wants to do more reading, my company has just launched an information website. This is mainly a collection of previous articles we have provided to the industry, but might be worth a read for anyone who wants to know more. http://www.infineumi....com/expertise/

 

[Dan r]

Remember doing some testing for Infinium when I worked at Ricardo a couple of years ago.

[mxorvx]

Seems to be a little conflicting...some sources recommend 10w-40, some 5w-40...

[fezzasus]

Seems to be a little conflicting...some sources recommend 10w-40, some 5w-40...

 

It doesn't matter.

 

The first number is cold temperature viscosity, unless you live somewhere very cold (-30 deg. at night) then both oils will do the job.

[Zoobeef]

With old porsches, the specialists and some owners are adamant that those engines burn more oil using a 0w-40 than a 10w-40. If so why would that be?

[fezzasus]

With old porsches, the specialists and some owners are adamant that those engines burn more oil using a 0w-40 than a 10w-40. If so why would that be?

 

 

It's probably bollocks.

 

However the 0W-40 is thinner when cold, and older engine designs use pistons which don't fit particularly well when cold, so they could be losing oil past the oil control rings at cold.

[Chief]

Firstly, great write up - thanks.

What about the oil thickeners like Lucas Stabiliser? How do such additives affect the oil specification and do they increase the higher end viscosity eg conver a 10w40 to a 10w 60? What useful purpose do they really serve that cannot be achieved by simply changing to a higher viscosity oil?

[siztenboots]

partly it might just be a function of the boxer layout , if I don't use mine for a few weeks the first start has plenty of smoke.

[fezzasus]

Firstly, great write up - thanks.

What about the oil thickeners like Lucas Stabiliser? How do such additives affect the oil specification and do they increase the higher end viscosity eg conver a 10w40 to a 10w 60? What useful purpose do they really serve that cannot be achieved by simply changing to a higher viscosity oil?

 

Don't use any additives

[Chief]

I don't intend to use them I just wanted to know what they do and how they worked and the pros and cons.

 

[fezzasus]

There are absolutely no pros to it at all. They work by unfolding at high temperature and ordering the oil, which allows weak molecular forces to occur between the oil and therefore limit flow. They are the same additives as found in an off the shelf oil, but rather than having £1-10 million spent developing the oil and refining treat rates, they think anyone can add it to an existing oil and expect it to work.

Edited by fezzasus, 11 June 2014 - 06:39 PM.

[TazN]

I really wouldn't recommend mixing oils if you can avoid it, the additives can destabilise one another and result in much less protection than either on their own. The cold start properties may be adversely affected too because the combination of different base oil types could lead to low temperature gelling.

 

That said, if you need to top up with oil then it's better to have two different types of oil than run low.

 

I'll be doing an oil change when I get the car back on the road. It has had semi-syn sat in it for a few months without being turned over. Looking at changing it for the fuchs stuff you mentioned earlier in the thread. Going from semi-syn to fully-syn or vice versa is there a benefit to flushing the system?

ie drain, fill with new, drain and refill?

 

Also hear/read different views on leaving a car without running for prolonged periods of time. Should the oil be changed before running it again or should it be run up to temp and then drained and replaced?

[fezzasus]

just drain and refill, no need to do a flush, the two are entirely miscible. 

 

I'd start it, get it up to temp and drain as that will drain out more than when cold.

[bunsenburner]

I have just bought some Motul 300V Chrono from Moto-Oil for £25 per 2 litre can, which is available in the group buy room in case anyone is interested.

 

If there's the interest in other brands those may also be available at a good discount if there is sufficient demand.

 

http://www.vx220.org...o-oil-discount/

 

[slindborg]

Mr Fez,

 

I need to do an oil change on the chavvy Fiat 500, its the 1400 turdo and they claim it needs a 5/40 ACEA C3, will an A3/B3 be ok? and what about API classified oil? Its only got a small capacity and goes long between changes (but the oil is still clean and doesnt use a drop)

I plan to get something from Morris or Millers as my local engineering place does it uber cheap as they use it for their lathes