91 replies to this topic

[techieboy]

No. Unfortunately, the door panel still needs to come off. You need to get your hand inside the void, to hold the bottom of the guide in place when you re-insert the two small screws either side of the threaded adjuster at the base of the guide. That's still a bit easier than trying to get the adjustment screw through the two plastic blocks that make up the adjuster though, as you're pretty much doing that blind.

Sounds like a great idea, where would one get this 'trunking'?

Should be able to get the self-adhesive trunking/conduit from most DIY stores.

[Dave E]

Sounds like a great idea, where would one get this 'trunking'?

This is the stuff I used. You only need the bit with the adhesive on and you'll have to trim it to the size of the tape. 2 meters is good for four runners

[MartinS]

Well done. Now stop being such a Jessie and cut some big holes in your car! Martin s

[Dave E]

Well done. Now stop being such a Jessie and cut some big holes in your car!

Martin s

Just ordered another course of testosterone, hopefully it'll work this time and I'll grow some balls, then it'll be dremel time

[SteveA]

Did this last night and after years of the DS window getting on my nerves the rattle has now gone Great guide Dave, I don't think I would have even had a look if it wasn't for this post.

[Dave E]

Did this last night and after years of the DS window getting on my nerves the rattle has now gone

Great guide Dave, I don't think I would have even had a look if it wasn't for this post.

Glad it worked for you too surprisingly easy to do isn't it

[Goosenka]

I would also add that have recently replaced my door trim panels and tightened everything back up there is no window rattle at all now. Did not even touch the window mech....go figure?!

[SteveA]

Glad it worked for you too surprisingly easy to do isn't it

Hardest part was threading the runner back in to the window guides but even that only took 10 mins tops.

[AllanM]

Nice guide. Just one question. Do i need to remove the window or is it enough to remove the seals ?

[Dave E]

Nice guide.

Just one question. Do i need to remove the window or is it enough to remove the seals ?

No need to remove the window, or seals, just need to unhook and pull back the first two or three inches of the seals to gain access. As long as you've wound the adjuster tight to the runner it should, with a little jiggling, come out easy enough. Worth remembering the window will slide back and fourth on the mechanism, so if you find that there's no way of getting the runner back in like I did to start with, just push the window forward. I make it sound complicated but will all be very obvious when you try it

[Bargi]

VXT'ED

Since I'd put in the CMS poly inserts and with the SCing with balancer shaft delete I was getting all sorts buzzing and rattles, especially at idle.
Just finished doing this and it works a treat, you don't realise how rattly the windows are until it's gone.
No rattles even with the windows halfway or fully down.

I found I was able to do this with by only taking off the rear pad on the door and pulling back the seals a bit.
Trick was after undoing the two screws on the adjuster at the bottom, turn the adjuster screw so the block that the two screws tighten into is is in parallel with window guide.
Then you should be able to pull it up through the gap at the top of the door with a bit of twisting and turning.
If it still won't come out because the the adjusting screw is making the bottom too wide then you will need to turn it "anticlockwise" which will tighten it back in and you should be to pull it through. (Don't do it clockwise/tighten, it'll undo itself and fall into the bottom of the door )

For putting it back together the difficult part is getting the window guide into the two plastic lugs at the bottom of the glass.
I found if you have the windows all the way down, slot, wiggle, swear the guide down just below the metal support about halfway down the door (see pics).
Wind the window up, but keep the guide where it is and slot it through the first block, then keeping the block where it is wind the window up until the second block comes up and slot it in as well. Then while still holding the guide firm, wind the window until it's about an inch higher then top of the guide.
Now wind the window down, but this time move the guide with it until the hole at the top of the guide lines up with the hole in the door you need to put the screw in. (you may need to wedge the guide at a bit of an angle to make sure the guide stays in the block)
Hold the top of the guide and wind the window down past the top of the guide so you can get the top screw in and fix it in place.
Important: Put something below the hole to catch the screw if you drop it, if you don't you'll need to pull the door apart to get to it! (see pic)
Now look at the adjuster at the bottom and it should be just about in place, with a small screwdriver should be able to work it in the right hole and screw it in place.


I know it's all a bit long winded and probably doesn't make a lot of sense but when you're actually doing it you'll see what I mean.

Some pics below

Edited by Bargi, 07 October 2011 - 04:51 PM.

[fezzasus]

You don't actually need to remove the rail at all. 1. With window wound up, insert PVC with plastic backing still covering foam 2. Once in place, reach into door cavity and remove plastic backing from the bottom, pulling as much as you can off until you get to the window 3. Wind window all the way down, you will be able to reach the plastic backing using needle nose pliers, pull up removing remaining plastic backing. 4. Wind window up and down a couple of times to ensure foam is stuck properly.

[H1 HWK]

You don't actually need to remove the rail at all.

1. With window wound up, insert PVC with plastic backing still covering foam

2. Once in place, reach into door cavity and remove plastic backing from the bottom, pulling as much as you can off until you get to the window

3. Wind window all the way down, you will be able to reach the plastic backing using needle nose pliers, pull up removing remaining plastic backing.

4. Wind window up and down a couple of times to ensure foam is stuck properly.

Yep, you can manage a reasonable job by just removing the top weatherstrip from the door (no need to remove door cards/panels). I tried the passenger side on mine in the summer but had a nightmare trying to re-assemble, so didn't fancy cutting my hands to ribbons again.

Using the jist of this excellent guide I cut a length of the ducting and left the backing on the sticky fixing. Once it was in place on the rail I managed to peel away enough of the backing to keep it held in place (winding the window up/down to aid access). It's not going to be as good a fix as a full dissasembly and pressing into place, but it's a good compromise to get quieter windows for a while without needing a trip to casualty

[kingwowns]

Great guide-thanks to the OP and to everyone that added hints- I just did it today using the "slide it down with the guide rails still in place then remove backing technique" on all four rails, and no more rattles! The only thing I can add is that it's prob best to do the drivers side first, as that will have worn the most and therefore easier to get the new plastic strips in, thus perfecting your working method for the trickier passenger side...the rear rail is easier than the one closest to the hinge btw. Cheers!

[CocoPops]

I really must do this to my windows, the passenger one is the worst on my car. I'll buy some trunking on the way home

[techieboy]

It's so worthwhile. Especially as others have proved that you don't need to actually remove the runners, if you don't want to. Only downside is, it highlights other rattles.

[CocoPops]

Can you do it Matt? (As a frustration level you see....)

[techieboy]

I'm sure I could have done. Luckily Dave took pity on me and dropped by and did it. Though he did make me remove one of the screws that held the runner in as he didn't fancy being responsible for mangling it. If it really is as simple as moving the seal along the top of the door and sliding the piece of conduit in, with everything in-situ, then that's a real result.

[drpau]

I did this today, I remember reading this guide when it was first done and put it on my list. I did it the original way (only after I finished did I read everyones useful tips!). Drivers side I managed to round off the screw as mentioned by techie . Tried cutting a line in it with dremel to use a flat head but when I tried unscrewing the screw broke. took a bit more off the head to remove the rail and then used some needle nose pliers to slowly unscrew (PITA). Because of all this it took me ages (as everything always does when I touch the VX). Replaced screw with a new one and sorted the rail=superb. Only problem is Ive still got the pax side to do think i will try newer 'slide down withou removing' method. Cant face the trauma of potentially rounding off another screw!! Thanks all for the tips

[sford]

Just did this the lazy easy way, took me all of an hour to do and there is no rattle from the rear runners anymore. I haven't done the fronts as there wasn't much play in them. Haven't been for a drive yet but there is no sideways play and closing the doors makes less noise.