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Project Flying Saucer


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#481 TazN

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 12:02 PM

Did they all go in easily?

#482 Wreelybro

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 12:43 PM

Yeah with the correct tools for the job. Bushes will push in with a little help. Ball joints will need to be pressed in. If you have a ball joint remover you can reverse it to press new joints back in.

#483 TazN

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 04:14 PM

Take it you just used the ball joint tool and not one for the bushes then?

#484 techieboy

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 04:21 PM

No need for the bush tool if you're fitting poly bushes, they push in by hand. Only slightly harder bit is getting the crush tubes in but that's not exactly rocket science.

#485 Wreelybro

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:52 PM

Yeah as Techie says no need for any tools for bushes lubed up well they will fit snug and a tap with a rubber mallet will get the crush tubes in nicely. Mine where all done in an hour.

#486 TazN

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 01:53 PM

Ah excellent, is the tool needed for oem bushes then? Have to say this thread has made it look a lot simpler than I feared. I may actually brave it and try myself if the weather isnt awful this winter.

#487 techieboy

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 02:08 PM

Tool is only needed if you want to remove OEM rubber bushes and to re-insert those or new replacement OEM rubber bushes. If you don't plan to re-use the OEM bushes, it's quicker/easier to remove them destructively, without the bush tool.

#488 Wreelybro

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 02:10 PM

If you're technially minded it's not that hard. (Not using OEM Bushes so can't comment)

#489 Wreelybro

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:58 PM

Finaly got time to start up the wishbones here are a few pics on the build up not that many as was to busy fitting!

Posted Image

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#490 fezzasus

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 05:49 PM

So will these need re-powdercoating if you switch suspension brands?

#491 Wreelybro

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:36 PM

lol nah I'll just buy blue dampers!

#492 chris_uk

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 09:40 PM

i hope they are stainless nuts & bolts

#493 Wreelybro

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:18 PM

i hope they are stainless nuts & bolts


Of course!

#494 Wreelybro

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:22 PM

New Hub Carrier Bolts fitted. Plus waiting on new Rear Caliper Slider Bolts and Front Caliper mounting bolts.

#495 oakmere

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 02:01 PM

Didn't think you should use stainless steel bolts on your suspension components as they are to brittle?

#496 Wreelybro

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 02:55 PM

I have an Elise Parts Kits so I would have thought they would have tested tensiles..

#497 techieboy

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 03:01 PM

In which case I think they're BZP bolts and not stainless. Or at least they used to be when I did my refresh 3 years ago. thumbsup

#498 Wreelybro

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 01:40 PM

Rear Caliper Slider Bolts and Front Caliper mounting bolts where waiting for me on my desk at work this afternoon. Now just waiting for the powdercoating to be finished and then it's back in the garage for more assembly.

#499 chris_uk

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 01:44 PM

I only mentioned it because they didnt look stainless. As for not using them, if you dont get silly high tensile strength then there should be no issues with them being brittle. Ive had mine on for 2 years and they have been perfectly fine.

#500 oakmere

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 10:00 PM

It's not just the lower tensile strength they weaken in certain environments salt is bad for this. I just don't know why you would fit something that starts off about 15% weaker and then decreases in strength much quicker than the original bolts? They may well be fine but rather you than me!




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