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408Bhp / 373Ft-Lb Stage 5+ 2006 Vx220 Turbo (Met Black)


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#261 MrSimba

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 01:57 PM

I'll have a look in the garage, I think I have a complete rear loom.


Cheers steve! thumbsup

This could possibly be the immobiliser throwing a fit? Anyone know how best to check without a Tech2?

Edited by MrSimba, 19 September 2012 - 01:58 PM.


#262 vocky

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 02:09 PM

the starter button sends a Negative signal to the yellow starter relay, so you won't find +12v even if you try very hard :lol:

check the fuses FL4 (under windscreen) and FB7 thumbsup

also white/black wire from the vxT ecu goes to the yellow relay

Edited by vocky, 19 September 2012 - 02:12 PM.


#263 SteveA

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 02:36 PM

Not sure if you have checked it but when I did my gearbox the first time, the twist in multiplug pulled out just slightly (the one between expansion tank bracket and airbox) I was getting a no start when it all went back together. To look at it seemed fine but it wasn't until I turned the twist lock I realised it wasn't tuned right to the top so the connector wasn't seated perfectly. Might be worth a look?

#264 MrSimba

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 03:30 PM

Thanks Neil that could have saved us a LOT of hassel!!! :) Cheers Steve think DG's been over every connection about 3 times tho if only it were a simple thing like that :(

#265 vocky

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:50 PM

you could always convert it to a 4 pin relay and bin the yellow relay, I have done this on mine

Brown = pin 30 (power from fuse FL4)
Brown/red = pin 87 (power to starter motor solenoid)
White/red = pin 85 (0v from starter button)
Green = pin 86 (+12v from fuse FB7)

The only downside is the starter button will work whenever pressed, the yellow relay switches off the starter circuit when the engine is running, so don't press the button when the engines running :lol:



http://www.speedster...nd charging.pdf

Edited by vocky, 19 September 2012 - 04:52 PM.


#266 MrSimba

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 10:57 PM

Well DG's got it started! Imnotworthy

But... its still throwing an EML P0115 which is the coolant temp sensor (and on the same loom as the AMM so thats throwing a P0100 as well!) almost tracked it down we think tonight to a continuity break in on of the wires from the ECU to the sensor so should have it resolved soon :)

Anyway I know you all like a little bling & even if its throwing a hissy fit, Carlsberg don't make heat shielding but if they did...

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#267 Ormes

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 05:53 AM

Congratulations :grouphug: on getting her started and for having such a nice engine bay :)

#268 Nev

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 09:14 AM

Great to hear its up and running. Whats the idle like, lumpy or fine ? Be wary of starting it up and letting it idle too much. I am sure Dunc knows this, but its far better for a fresh engine to be driven immediately with a moderate load and widely varying revs upto approx 66% of its red line. Both accelerating and deaccelerating by letting the engine 'rev down' by taking your foot off the accelerator - this changes the leverage on the piston sides by 180 degrees so that both sides of the cylinder wall and rings are worn evenly.

#269 siztenboots

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 09:41 AM

i see you have stainless cam cover bolts, just a word of warning, but keep an eye on them as I found several had come loose on mine, this could have been very serious given the crankcase vent vapours and a nearby heat source.

#270 MrSimba

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 09:54 AM

i see you have stainless cam cover bolts, just a word of warning, but keep an eye on them as I found several had come loose on mine, this could have been very serious given the crankcase vent vapours and a nearby heat source.


Thanks Steve - will do! thumbsup

#271 MrSimba

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 09:55 AM

Great to hear its up and running. Whats the idle like, lumpy or fine ?

Be wary of starting it up and letting it idle too much. I am sure Dunc knows this, but its far better for a fresh engine to be driven immediately with a moderate load and widely varying revs upto approx 66% of its red line. Both accelerating and deaccelerating by letting the engine 'rev down' by taking your foot off the accelerator - this changes the leverage on the piston sides by 180 degrees so that both sides of the cylinder wall and rings are worn evenly.


Engine sounds good! Pistons & rings already done 19k so nicely bedded in, DG commented on how good the neg boost was :)

#272 craigb78

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:20 AM

Soo sooo happy my engine is in and mobile in a vx220 can't say im not gutted tho, just wish that I would of stuck it out. On the flip side I do now have another vx220 which could receieved the treatment. But won't be untill next winter plans for this winter is stage 4. I did use it in the wet the other and and at stage 2 it give me a couple of little warnings coming of round abouts.

#273 Nev

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:37 AM

neg boost? Whats that please?!

#274 MrSimba

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:39 AM

That's the reading on the boost gauge at idle, it's like a compression test, lower the reading the better! :)

Edited by MrSimba, 20 September 2012 - 10:39 AM.


#275 Nev

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:53 AM

Oh - you mean "idle vacuum" LOL. Thats good, means your cams are timed up nicely and your brakes will work !!

Edited by Nev, 20 September 2012 - 10:53 AM.


#276 Duncan VXR

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 11:03 AM

Engine fired 1st time, well once some wiring gremlins were sorted. and until the amm / coolant sensor faults kicked in idle was really smooth and quiet. As simon stated not a fully built engine so not need for full bed in process but not been having it idle anyway as I have been trawling through wires and connectors lol. Also has bigger tb in which I expect to effect in part Seems one of the 2 wires on the ecu plug to coolant sensor has a load of resistance and traced back half of it and last thing last night found the short section showing the issue but just need to double check a few things before replacing faulty section def not vac leaks Nev and as simon said nice strong negative reading at idle Engine does seem a good item craig - was a bit of mess in the sump but cleaned out prior to fresh oil / filter and startup DG

#277 siztenboots

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 11:26 AM

when you say CTS, then it does sound like worth doing the earth mod P1106, TC P0100 and TC P0170. Field Remedy 2006 seems to offer the solution poor earth connection in the fuel injection wiring loom , the earth connecton is common for the air flow meter, map sensor and engine coolant - hence the apparent failiures of these electrical devices and the above stored erroneous codes

#278 Duncan VXR

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 12:01 PM

Cheers Steve, will do this regardless to if its the fault or not ;) DG

#279 craigb78

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 12:35 PM

What you mean by a mess In the sump mate? This could be due to it standing for 12 months mostly in my garage under a vx220 car cover lol,

#280 Duncan VXR

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 01:20 PM

Bit of light metal swalf floating around bottom of sump and what looked like a few strands of wire wool. Mag sunp plug collected a lot of it. But all cleaned and fresh filters on ;-)




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