769 replies to this topic

[MrSimba]

I try to avoid clay bars like the plague! cause waaaaaaaay more damage than they cure, even Sonus 'green' which is incredibly soft I've had to machine polish cars (not my own...) after they have been attacked with clay to get the marks out! On a black VX the 'best' I've found are (though I'm sure others will have tried other products with equally good results ) Polish with Mequires *9 (with Sonus spot pads) Glaze with 'Poorboys' blackhole & wax with Autoglym HD or VIctoria Concourse 'red' Any correction work with Mequires *83 But simple things like really rinsing the car well, lambswool wash mit NOT A SPONGE!!!, and dry the body gently with a very soft MF cloth then keep the finish as good & not re-mark it!

Edited by MrSimba, 01 December 2011 - 08:25 PM.

[astravxr]

I try to avoid clay bars like the plague! cause waaaaaaaay more damage than they cure, even Sonus 'green' which is incredibly soft I've had to machine polish cars (not my own...) after they have been attacked with clay to get the marks out!

On a black VX the 'best' I've found are (though I'm sure others will have tried other products with equally good results )

Polish with Mequires *9 (with Sonus spot pads)
Glaze with 'Poorboys' blackhole & wax with Autoglym HD or VIctoria Concourse 'red'

Any correction work with Mequires *83

But simple things like really rinsing the car well, lambswool wash mit NOT A SPONGE!!!, and dry the body gently with a very soft MF cloth then keep the finish as good & not re-mark it!

I've used the victoria concourse red on my older red car and i loved it, i applied with my fingers and felt it was best put on that way... can you do this with the HD wax or is it too hard?
Thing is i dont have a machine polisher and i would probs mess it up if i did... by hand im not too bad but i suppose its hard to achieve the results you have without a machine polisher lol

[MrSimba]

HD wax is too hard to apply by hand but it does come with a couple of applicator pads To be honest I only use the machine polisher on my car probably about twice a year, just look after it every time you wash & dry it and then apply the glazes & waxes by hand and softly buff to finish

Edited by MrSimba, 01 December 2011 - 09:59 PM.

[astravxr]

SFX-1 spot pad by any chance?

Edited by astravxr, 01 December 2011 - 10:42 PM.

[MrSimba]

http://www.cleanyour...ads/cat_19.html

[MrSimba]

I sent the image of the pad back to CL Brakes and just asked for any insight into what may have caused such pad degradation, I fully realised the pads were sold on a 'track only - not for road use' basis so no warrantee could be asked for, but I just wished to possibly prevent it happening again and got a reply from Paul

Hi Simon,

CL have agreed to credit me for your pads..

So therefore I will send you FOC replacements.

So thats a lot more than I expected and I'm very pleased with that as I'm also very impressed with CL's commitment to standing behind their products

Edited by MrSimba, 09 December 2011 - 08:45 PM.

[GeorgeBC]

Good to here! Ive been meaning to take photos of my pads that failed on a trackday and send them to them but ive been a lazy fecker so far. Worth it if they send me new pads though .

[MrSimba]

More parcels arrived last week

My TAT 'short' arrived from JG absolutely beautifully finished by JG's powdercoaters - if you need a diffuser or anything 'TAT' definatly go to 'Mango Motorsport'

http://www.mangomotorsport.co.uk/shop/

I'd also loved the trim I'd seen on Mani's & Gigo's at the Peaks run & Giles had sent me a link and that really finished the diffuser off, Liam @ MMG also very kindly sorted me out some 10mm alloy spacers for it as well - thankyou!





Looks exactly how I wanted!

[Duncan VXR]

Simon get that exhaust sitting central tut tut Looking good sir, about time you came round and cleaned the skoda DG

[MrSimba]

Wheels & fuel cap /surround now "shadow chrome'd" by Paul at 1st Class Alloys and he's done his usual superb job!

At the Midlands Meet this afternoon

Edited by MrSimba, 02 January 2012 - 11:59 PM.

[JG]

That looks fantastic!!

[-Dab-of-Oppo-]

Ohhhh that TAT looks brilliant. I was looking for some edging trim for mine as I allways thought it looked a bit thin, linky to where I can get some please!

[MrSimba]

This is the stuff, Mani & GiGo found it and used it on there diffusers and I nicked the idea from them!

http://www.cbsonline...dge_Trim_TRMSBU

[MrSimba]

Well I noticed inlet temps were higher than usual a couple of weeks back and once 'up' they wouldn't come back down so looked like a problem with the charge cooler

The system I've got is based on the TMS system, I say 'based' as all that is left is the physical heat exchanger / header tank & radiator ALL the crap pipework, temp sensor BEFORE the CC ect was completely re-worked by DG & Jaylin a few years back so thought I'd got a breach in the heat exchanger letting boosted air into the coolant system, So sent the heat exchanger back to AH Fabrications who tested it to 4bar without any fault? So at least that was not the problem!

So I've looked at the whole system with DG & Liam from MMG and today took it all apart and put it all back together again... 10 hours of fun...

We decided to upgrade the IC to MMG's 'Stage 3' IC which is rated to 300bhp on its own, this would take the initial 'hit' out of the inlet temps & then leave a CC in series right behind it to further cool the temps down.

Taking the OE unit out the pipe to the CC had kinked badly - probably losing about 30% flow, and the pipe to the TB was also kinking though not as badly.



This pipe was to be replace with re-enforced boost hose



The MMG IC has a larger, much denser, and deeper core than the OE - the difference in quality is very obvious!



After fitting it I modded some Nimbus to make sure ALL the air entering the vent went into the IC - I reckon you'd lose probably 40-50% of the airflow without it



Then time to put the CC back in - no kinked hoses anywhere!!!!



Again copying Liam I've mounted an external temp sensor just in front of the IC to monitor temps before IC & then compare temps at TB with ScanGuage to see what effect the IC & CC are having





On a test run (I took my iPad with me half expecting a boost hose to blow off and give me something to do whilst I waited for GreenFlag...!) the system performs fantastically

Inlet temps never went more than 1.5' above pre-IC temp reading, even at 23psi boost the temps never went above 24' and as soon as I came off boost they just dropped immediately

So it works and works very very well it seems, Kinda like having a CC and IC in series if one plays up then the other can keep temps to an acceptable level till sorted!

My arse dyno says it actually boosts faster, this is also backed up by Liams own testing of this IC compared to a very 'well known' CC system, car certainly feels good anyway!

Edited by MrSimba, 04 June 2012 - 07:30 PM.

[fezzasus]

Are those chromed or stainless steel wishbones?

[MrSimba]

Just new ones! the previous 'GAZ' shocks dinked them so had to be replaced

[JG]

[Nev]

Good effort Simon, I think you've done a first there Good idea to install both a pre + post temp sensor.

[MrSimba]

Good effort Simon, I think you've done a first there

Good idea to install both a pre + post temp sensor.

Cheers Nev

Can't take the credit for the pre / post sensor tho Liam's been doing that for ages!!!

[Nev]

You seem to be all prepped up for a sneaky power hike Do you realise you are running only 40 ft/lb less torque than me though !

Edited by Nev, 04 June 2012 - 08:06 PM.