82 replies to this topic

[Rally]

Thank you And, sorry about this, another question. The tiny pipe that runs from the middle top of the inlet manifold... where does that go? It seems to go to the end of the fuel rail...

[Exmantaa]

Hi Smiley, Again, a great guide... (but you forgot to mention your time and labour consuming rusty / broken bolts...) To that 90* adapter and hose; that is indeed the line from the EVAP purge/vent valve, normally connected to the 2.2's throttlebody. You can connect it again on the 68mm TB, but there is very little room for that between the bulkhead. This works too. Edit; that "tiny pipe" is for manifold pressure to fuel regulator, as with the SC's the fuel pressure is boost referenced.

Edited by Exmantaa, 09 November 2011 - 01:11 AM.

[smiley]

The tiny pipe that runs from the middle top of the inlet manifold... where does that go? It seems to go to the end of the fuel rail...

Correct. It connects the fuel regulator to the SC.
On the normal manifold, this hose goes into the airpipe, just before the throttle body:

(thin black hose with white end tips)

On the SC setup it will help fuel pressure on boost, so make sure to use vacuum hose on that.

Edited by smiley, 09 November 2011 - 01:16 AM.

[smiley]

Again, a great guide... (but you forgot to mention your time and labour consuming rusty / broken bolts...)

Ah, the man who did all the actual work
Yes, we were doing 16 to 19 hour working days for this.

[Exmantaa]

Last comment to that rolling road sheet; Had some thoughts with Ron (Speedster4fun) about the high drive lossses on this MAHA device. (He dynoed the same day with less loss) The drive losses on the Speedsters were a lot higher than the Manta's from the same dyno day. But a Manta has a straight solid rear axle and that works OK with the MAHA 2 roller bench... Speedsters/VX220 have quite a lot of Camber and toe-in at the rear and we think that creates a lot of friction loss between the MAHA's rollers, probably even more if you have some sticky rubber mounted like Smiley that day.

[Exmantaa]

Again, a great guide... (but you forgot to mention your time and labour consuming rusty / broken bolts...)

Ah, the man who did all the actual work
Yes, we were doing 16 to 19 hour working days for this.

Thxs.
Bit late, but I was still busy (on the couch) "perfecting" my own SC's (the yellow LSJ) fuel mapping. I'm now within 1% fuel trims for cruising etc., so think it's pretty spot on. )

[VX-GT]

Last comment to that rolling road sheet; Had some thoughts with Ron (Speedster4fun) about the high drive lossses on this MAHA device. (He dynoed the same day with less loss)
The drive losses on the Speedsters were a lot higher than the Manta's from the same dyno day. But a Manta has a straight solid rear axle and that works OK with the MAHA 2 roller bench... Speedsters/VX220 have quite a lot of Camber and toe-in at the rear and we think that creates a lot of friction loss between the MAHA's rollers, probably even more if you have some sticky rubber mounted like Smiley that day.

I would dial out the rear geo for mapping purposes
as there is a large inverse giroscopic affect on the wheels & driveshafts
I have seen driven hubs shear due to the lateral forces

[Nev]

Bloody hell, that was a huge amount of work for a weekend. Amazing. Hats off to you.

[OneYet]

YES! What a guide. Marvelous. I'm doing this over the winter and are already pesting mr Exmantaa with PM's This guide have saved him a few pm's right away. Thanks again.

[ChrisS1]

Wow that's a massive effort!!! Well done guys! Smiley you be...err....smiley now

[Exmantaa]

Bloody hell, that was a huge amount of work for a weekend. Amazing. Hats off to you.

Actually not a weekend, but done in 2 Saturdays. 1st day only the front part with pre-rad & hoses. And at the end Smiley had to drive home with it. Next week the rear part was with the engine conversion etc. Another late nighter due to a broken engine stud, but he could drive it home again and this time a bit quicker than he was used to.


(And a small correction to the guide; that alloy tank is not a Pro Alloy item, but made by Allo-Racing-Fabrications. )

[Rally]

Hey Smiley, how did you go about repairing the temporary hatch you cut in the front sill?

[smiley]

Hey Smiley, how did you go about repairing the temporary hatch you cut in the front sill?

Glue 2 squares against the rear side of the sill, with small parts sticking out to the middle.
Then put the cut out piece back. I did not glue it back in, just in case i need back entrance to it.
Then cover that complete clam part with a few layers of black foil.

The sill cover removal trick that is used in the UK is a cleaner solution, if you have the fiddeling time, and don't mind the 2 white foam pieces destroyed.

[Exmantaa]

My own Speedster with the hatch glued back in. (2K epoxy)
Some color on the joint and done.

[smiley]

Uk version of the 68mm pin layout swap:



For newbies:
You can fit your standard 58mm throttle body on the SC with an adaptor plate. The connector will not need changes.
The same for the 65mm throttle body.
ONLY the 68mm lsj requires rewiring.


Please keep in mind that all information i have posted, is for information purposes only
and i take NO RESONSABILIY for wrong information or whatever if you brake your car with my guide.
If you're not sure about any of the info in this post, just save up and bring it to Joe and Lee or Courtenay who have all done this a lot of times.

Edited by smiley, 10 November 2011 - 11:01 PM.

[MMSB]

So you think it's OK to just run it with the base map? I'm asking because i'd like to do the same

[smiley]

So you think it's OK to just run it with the base map?

The old base map goes to 6800 and is setup a bit too rich, and slightly lean over 6500rpm (as you can see in my dyno plot)
The new base map goes to 4500 rpm (or 5500 can't remember exactly), so you definitly need to go to Courtenay for that anyway.
There they can optimise the fuel tables so it's less rich overall, and richer in the end.

So it's ok to drive, but would certainly not advise to keep it like that as final.

I am switching to an optimised map this winter myself.

Edited by smiley, 11 November 2011 - 03:03 PM.

[MMSB]

So you think it's OK to just run it with the base map?

The old base map goes to 6800 and is setup a bit too rich, and slightly lean over 6500rpm (as you can see in my dyno plot)
The new base map goes to 4500 rpm (or 5500 can't remember exactly), so you definitly need to go to Courtenay for that anyway.
There they can optimise the fuel tables so it's less rich overall, and richer in the end.

So it's ok to drive, but would certainly not advise to keep it like that as final.

I am switching to an optimised map this winter myself.

Ah, OK, not so good news then...

[smiley]

Ah, OK, not so good news then...

You live far from Courtenay?

[techieboy]

1500 miles, or so.