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Cliffie Double Time Attack 2012+13 Champion!


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#4341 Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:21 PM

Did you change the rod end then go for geo?



#4342 chris_uk

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:29 PM

Mike tried but because the new one was overall longer than the original one he put the old one back on. We then took off the old ones, copied the lengths identically ( overall was identical) we put them back on and tightened them up as much as possible until the thread on the steering rack hit the thread of the rose joint, the result was 1.10degrees toe-in. We did both sides so it was identical. Its wierd.

#4343 2deano5

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:46 PM

The split pin is in the wrong place on the new ends you have, same problem we had at brands. The ends are the same length but you can not wind them in enough to get the correct toe, about 1cm to short if I remember correctly. You have to knock the split pin out then drill a new hole on the end then put the color back on then you can obtain correct toe. Speak to Matt B. We spent about an hour faffing around with this at Brands before you arrived Chris. We did one but couldn't get the split pin out on one of the new ones that's why we only replaced one Sorry for the huge text on the tablet ;) The other option is as you say is to cut the rack butbetter to mod the ends I could draw it better but cant do that from here

Edited by 2deano5, 02 April 2014 - 07:47 PM.


#4344 Matthew Bentley Racing Ltd

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:51 PM

The split pin is in the wrong place on the new ends you have, same problem we had at brands. The ends are the same length but you can not wind them in enough to get the correct toe, about 1cm to short if I remember correctly. You have to knock the split pin out then drill a new hole on the end then put the color back on then you can obtain correct toe. Speak to Matt B. We spent about an hour faffing around with this at Brands before you arrived Chris. We did one but couldn't get the split pin out on one of the new ones that's why we only replaced one Sorry for the huge text on the tablet ;) The other option is as you say is to cut the rack butbetter to mod the ends I could draw it better but cant do that from here

 

 

:yeahthat:

 

I was just about to ask about the split pin location new vs old



#4345 chris_uk

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:05 PM

I checked that. Both rose joints were screwed into the threaded shaft as far as possible and then randomly drilled and pinned. There isnt a right or wrong place to do it. I pulled them apart and saw they had re-drilled a new hole and stuck in a roll pin. One of the roll pins had snapped allowing the rose joint to turn but it was just the roll pin which was damaged, the rose joint was still good so i kept it for spare. The only thing i could think of is the thread on the rose joint was longer on the new ones than the old.. So if you like there wasnt as much room left inside the threaded tube for the steering rack to screw into before the threads touched but i asked where the threaded bar went to on the rack and was told it was in the same place as the original thus leading me to believe the threads on the new rose joints were equal to the old..

Edited by chris_uk, 02 April 2014 - 08:06 PM.


#4346 2deano5

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:50 PM

I'm sure the above is the answer, its the same issue me and Matt had at Brands but without the joints in front of me I can't fully explain or remember what the exact issue was. I think the hole on the actual joint was 1cm further out from the joint, once in the collar with the pin it meant the rack hit the joint as the threaded end of the joint was 1cm nearer the end of the coollor. This meant it had 1cm less to scew onto the rack before it hit the joint end. No the above is not right s**t I can't remember what we did but if deffently solved it. We didn't cut the joint ...... Hold up, I think the coollor is only threaded a certain depth. Yes you need to move the joint further out so you don't need to use as much thred on the color when placing onto the rack to place the joint in the same position. Make sense ? Your not hitting the joint you are running out of thred on the collor

Edited by 2deano5, 02 April 2014 - 08:54 PM.


#4347 chris_uk

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:57 PM

Well the overall length of the unit (rose joint and threaded tube) was identical, the tube itself was identical as he turned it down in the lathe and once both went on the rack it screwed on to the same place as the original (ollie marked it) so for all intensive purposes the old and new units were made identical. Who knows, i was just worried about something being bent or damaged which needed sorting. Id rather talk about the cambers etc and how to find out ideal cambers etc.

#4348 2deano5

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:59 PM

Back onto topic then :P

#4349 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 12:29 PM

Sadly for sale but just not getting used.



#4350 FLD

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 12:58 PM

This has been an epic story.  I hope the new job is just as much fun.



#4351 Mike (Cliffie)

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Posted 11 August 2014 - 01:44 PM

Cheers Mr D.






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