Cliffie Double Time Attack 2012+13 Champion!
#1321
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:20 PM
#1322
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:23 PM
#1323
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:26 PM
#1324
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:32 PM
Think the R1R's are still list 1b tyres. Think the R rating in the name is the clue.
Looking at the list they are, but AD08 are on list 1A
#1325
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:33 PM
#1326
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:55 PM
What wet tyre would you suggest? Bearing in mind we dont have one of those trees where you can use the leaves as payment.
Lol, if you do find that tree then please do let me know!
I'm not completely up to speed with what tyres are list 1B or whatever. Avon would probably be a good start point for a light car though, but really you would want to trawl the list and compare notes with other series on the same regs, particularly hill climb and sprint stuff and remember to talk to people.
#1327
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:55 PM
Upgrading Mikes springs will take some testing to get him used to the setup so the wisdom in changing this now the season's already up and running and he's performing well is questionable imo.... Not perfect but it is what it is and seems to be working!
Realistically, at club level there is an argument that says the last thing you want to do is change the driving characteristics of your familiar car when the conditions get worse.
I think this is the logic we should go forward with.... Think we're in danger of upsetting things by looking at upgrading springs and raising ride heights etc. How bad was the rubbage...?
#1328
Posted 14 May 2012 - 04:57 PM
#1329
Posted 14 May 2012 - 05:00 PM
What wet tyre would you suggest? Bearing in mind we dont have one of those trees where you can use the leaves as payment.
Why would you want to buy something from a tree...?
#1330
Posted 14 May 2012 - 05:10 PM
i got some michelin pilot sports meant to be awesome in the wet
Always been my appreciation that with Michelin/Continental etc traditional tyre companies...the money is buying you wet grip.
#1331
Posted 14 May 2012 - 07:27 PM
Hi, Cliffie, how do you think your monotubes work? Sattisfied?
Have you had the chance to compare them to Jims Nitron?
,Per
I believe one of his shocks has failed already.....
Not so far. We had an issue when the clicks on a rear damper disappeared for some reason but after a session on track they magically came back. The clicks work on gas pressure I am told and with the shocks laid up for the best part of six months it may have taken some up and down action to get the pressure up again.
I doubt very much they will be as good as Jimmy's Nitron 46's but they are as good as I am going to get and they got me a 1:40 round Cadwell which is pretty impressive. Shame I got beaten by Ronnie in his Sierra who is also on Gaz I believe.
The pressure in the damper is from a fixed Nitrogen charge that won't build up with use. It might leak out but if you have the clicks back I doubt that's happened. The clicks are from a detent system in the adjuster dial itself which isn't spring loaded so does require pressure in the damper to give a positive feel. If the clicks have been lost momentarily I imagine it was simply some stiction in the damper. If they dial becomes hard to turn and rough then its likely the seal on the adjuster itself has let it some moisture and this can be rectified without rebuilding the damper but if its lost gas pressure you will need a rebuild. I regularly check for gas pressure by removing the dampers, compressing them and making sure they extent back out under their own steam and in roughly the same time.
On Friday I back-to-backed my 46mm's with the 40mm's and currently the 40mm's are 0.5 sec faster on Brands Indy and much nicer to drive on so we have lots of work to do still on the 46mm's to get them ahead. To be fair, my 40mm three ways have had an enormous amount of work go into them so it was no surprise.
Hmm, and I was thinking of buying 1 ways Nitron 46s, but now? maybe I should consider 1 way 40s and save a few bucks?!
I didn´t ment you guys to be angry at each other beacause I asked about the Gaz monotubes.
,Per
#1332
Posted 14 May 2012 - 07:53 PM
#1333
Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:45 PM
Hmm, and I was thinking of buying 1 ways Nitron 46s, but now? maybe I should consider 1 way 40s and save a few bucks?!
I didn´t ment you guys to be angry at each other beacause I asked about the Gaz monotubes.
,Per
Per, Joe was joking when he said you were to blame. Cliffie and me have been at this for months!! Really not your fault!!!
Reason Chris has better performance with the 40mm tube is that he's spent countless testing hours on the 40mm tube refining it to what is an optimum setting for his application (extreme race car). He's in the process of putting the 46mm tube through a similar process and will hopefully surpass the 40mm tube in the future. The 46mm is very much in it's early stages for Chris (for everyone really).
Out of the box with standard valving though the 46mm tube is the more capable shock (imo).
#1334
Posted 14 May 2012 - 09:57 PM
#1335
Posted 15 May 2012 - 05:21 AM
#1336
Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:44 AM
Can't beat of a bit of friendly banter.
And friendly it is.
The T1Rs are a compromise and I don't have the money to go out and buy another set of tyres in case it rains.
We had a wet practice at Cadwell and I was quickest in class by some margin and I like the T1R. OK so it is not a dedicated wet race tyre and I am convinced a proper wet tyre would be quicker and easier but as I say, funds are not there.
Joe, we did cure the outer rubbage but the inner rubbage was still bad so I have fitted 5mm spacer on the back so pushed the wheels out, therefore we will again get rubbage on the outer.
#1337
Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:46 AM
Can't beat of a bit of friendly banter.
And friendly it is.
The T1Rs are a compromise and I don't have the money to go out and buy another set of tyres in case it rains.
We had a wet practice at Cadwell and I was quickest in class by some margin and I like the T1R. OK so it is not a dedicated wet race tyre and I am convinced a proper wet tyre would be quicker and easier but as I say, funds are not there.
Joe, we did cure the outer rubbage but the inner rubbage was still bad so I have fitted 5mm spacer on the back so pushed the wheels out, therefore we will again get rubbage on the outer.
What ride heights are you on?
#1338
Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:58 AM
#1339
Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:03 AM
110 rear 100 front.
Any decent wets we can borrow Chris?
That sensible enough. No wets at all here although TBO I wouldn't lend out race tyres as they are only good for a few heat cycles.
Remember... The tyre is the only component that connects you to the road and transfers every force the car generates. Get good ones, look after them and put them on top of your list when it comes to budgeting as fresh tyres will always give the best value lap time.
#1340
Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:06 AM
110 rear 100 front.
Any decent wets we can borrow Chris?
That sensible enough. No wets at all here although TBO I wouldn't lend out race tyres as they are only good for a few heat cycles.
Remember... The tyre is the only component that connects you to the road and transfers every force the car generates. Get good ones, look after them and put them on top of your list when it comes to budgeting as fresh tyres will always give the best value lap time.
I know Chris, I know.
We were not expecting a wet and dry need this year to be honest so the money went on new wheels and dry tyres so when the tyre regs were announced, we had to come up with wets pretty quickly with no available funds.
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