7 replies to this topic

[P11 COV]

My Stage 4 Turbo seems to not boost as much as it used to and feels less 'manic' than when I first got it. As I had the intake pipe and heat sheilding off for other reasons I decided to have a play with the adjustment. It is a Courtenay uprated actuator btw. Can knowledgeable ones just explain a few things: 1. I am wright in saying having the adjustment nuts more towards the top of the actuator rod i.e. less thread it will boost more. 2. Is there any limits, dangers I should be aware of 3. How does this mechanical adjustment effect the ECU's control of boost? 4. What is the difference between the a) standard actuator VXR actuator c) uprated actuator 5. My actuator rod looks slightly bent. Could this cause the loss of boost level and what could have caused this? 6. How can I check the actuator is working ok? Anything else you can tell me that might be of use. Last question: Should this be in tuning and mods?

[Zoobeef]

Yep, screw it closer to the top equals more boost. Best to get it to what the map wants it as. The rod itself shouldnt be bent, it may come out the top bit at a slight angle though. You can chexk using a bicycle pump onto the little vaccum pipe that goes to the top and see what pressure it starts to open. You can watch it and rev it hard and you should see it open too

[Duncan VXR]

Actuator in basic terms holds the wastegate penny closed and the turbo build boost, the actuator will be set to a static break point (in which the wastegate penny starts to open) this then vents the boost - sure the VXR actuator is 8 or 10psi iirc - you can apply more pressure by adjusting the rod/bolt and this can in some setups help to stop boost creep at higher boost / rpm but the rod itself only has a certain amount of travel and retrict it too much and the wastegate penny will open part open which then causes issues controlling the boost and not been able to vent it quick enough can cause over boost issues The ECU via the boost solinoid overrides the static actuator setting (to feel 8psi unplug the solinoid and have a drive) so if the ECU wants 20psi it applys positive pressure through the solinoid to the actuator vac feed over powering the static break off point and reaching the required target and then through the bleed valve / Actuator bleeds excess boost to again stop over boost You really need to test what the static is and the target etc which required a boost guage Whoever mapped it can tell you what overboost and hold boost reading should be - do this test in 3rd gear from say 2.5k WOT Rod is straight by the way Hope this helps a bit, best I can tell you in my 2mins spare at work lol DG

[Nev]

My Stage 4 Turbo seems to not boost as much as it used to and feels less 'manic' than when I first got it.

Maybe you are just getting used to it? I constantly find that I think the power output from my cars seems to change, even in my Ford Focus TDCi, but clearly it doesnt. Different conditions and familiarity of your car can deffo play tricks with your mind. The best way to genuinely test this is get it dynoed at the same place that originally mapped and compare old to new dyno plots.

[Nev]

BTW, I forgot that I have a bit of VX220 related wategates and turbo stuff here. It might give you some background info.

[P11 COV]

Maybe you are just getting used to it?

No - I have a boost gauge and it used to peak at 25 but recently dropped to 15. Also breaking traction in winter was easy and I had to be really careful. That is no longer the case ( well it is getting back to that with the actuator adjustment.)

Maybe you are just getting used to it? .

[Duncan VXR]

Check boost and vac setup also

[siztenboots]

the actuator preload should never need further adjustment once set. Unless the lock nut has moved , and the bottom nut fallen off ,then don't touch. you can't use your boost guage when driving to second guess what you've adjusted it to, chances are you will get nasty boost spikes and/or boost creep because you've limited the action of the system by shortening it. I think you should phone Courtenay Sport now, and describe all the other problems, the split charge cooler and engine coolant loss and overheating.