15 replies to this topic

[Pete0810]

I can't remove the bolt nearest the cabin on the driver's side bracket from the engine block to engine mount, can I safely replace the engine mount without removing the bracket? i.e. by jacking the engine up about an inch. I've tried penetrating oils and muscle thus far; my other option is heat.

[Craig S]

Think Bob managed by jacking The way I got the bugger to move was with a breaker bar and then I got my jack handle between the breaker bar and the chassis rail (the black tubular bit) that was enough to break the nut. I can give you better details if you need.

[Pete0810]

I was considering lowering the car while supporting the engine, it being attached to the nearside and the nearside wheels on the ground. Not sure that will be a good idea though because of the force on the other side's engine mount. I used a breaker bar and a big hammer without joy but enlighten me if you've a fool-proof way, please!

[Tyler.]

Don't think it can be done, I had my engine all the way up on the drivers side until it hit the bottom of the clam and I still couldn't get the mount out.

[Pete0810]

Oh, I thought it needed only an inch or so gap to wiggle the mount out of position. hmmm....

[slindborg]

You might be able to do it if you remove the passenger side mount bracket first. But thats gonna twist the bollocks off the front and rears. I use a 3/8's ratchet with just a metal handle that a jack handle fits over to gain more leverage in the small space.

[Pidgeon]

If you have access, you can cut the thread off, then shorten the thread on the new mount to ease installation. I've fitted a N/S with bracket on by shortening the thread. Last weekend I fitted two new mounts in around 20 minutes - it's slightly easier when the clam's off.

[Craig S]

1. The way I did it was soak the bolt overnight. 2. Purchased a good breaker bar and low profile 5 sided socket. 3. Popped the socket on with the breaker bar pointing up to the sky, so you will see the bar sticking up as you look next to the shock. 4. Got my jack handle and propped it in-between the breaker bar handle and the black tubular chassis (the part a broken mount rattles off). 5. The leverage with the handle broke the nut with ease. 6. Finished off with a ratchet spanner.

[Pete0810]

Tried but failed with that idea, thanks for posting it though. I am recovering from two broken wrists, to make things worse, so I guess I lack the oomph at the mo'. Just invested in this and tomorrow I'll try once more.

[Craig S]

Tried but failed with that idea, thanks for posting it though. I am recovering from two broken wrists, to make things worse, so I guess I lack the oomph at the mo'. Just invested in this and tomorrow I'll try once more.

How will you get that on the bolt head? There is no room if it it the really hard access one.

[ghand]

Tried but failed with that idea, thanks for posting it though. I am recovering from two broken wrists, to make things worse, so I guess I lack the oomph at the mo'. Just invested in this and tomorrow I'll try once more.

Just ask a neighbor or mate who is built like a brick sh*t house to swing on it.They are tight but if you have the strength they will go with leverage.

You dont want to break a wrist again

[Craig S]

The problem is with the clam on there is no room to swing on it. If you got the car on a ramp with the tray off you could get a big bar on it. That was my next idea when I was having problems.

[ghand]

The problem is with the clam on there is no room to swing on it. If you got the car on a ramp with the tray off you could get a big bar on it. That was my next idea when I was having problems.

I did mine a while back and know how frigging awkward it is and how tight they are.You do need a lot of strength and some folk will never move one.may be six month on the weights before it goes will help

[G-Bob]

It's possible because I did it. The hard part is not getting the old one out (just grind it) but getting the new one in. There's a slit in the bracket, I extended that slightly with the grinder. Then jack the engine up really high (remove the fuel rail bracket for extra height. The new one then slides along the slit and drops down into the hole in the chassis and then lower the engine onto it again. Don't fancy doing that again!

[Craig S]

I did mine a while back and know how frigging awkward it is and how tight they are.You do need a lot of strength and some folk will never move one.may be six month on the weights before it goes will help

Just need some

[Pete0810]

Tried but failed with that idea, thanks for posting it though. I am recovering from two broken wrists, to make things worse, so I guess I lack the oomph at the mo'. Just invested in this and tomorrow I'll try once more.

How will you get that on the bolt head? There is no room if it it the really hard access one.

I bought a 10" extension bar too, which I'll collect tomorrow, and if it isn't raining cats and dogs I will give it a go. Then all I have to do are front fogs, carpet, new discs, fuel filter, oil filter, oil change.... it's a work in progress!