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Swapping Driveshaft


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#1 smiley

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 07:03 PM

Swapping the short driveshaft this week. Anything i should keep in mind? Anybody has the torque figures for this job by hand? Thanks chinky chinky

#2 Dave E

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 07:08 PM

All here http://www.vx220.org...80#entry1303803

#3 redvts

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 07:51 PM

definately put a new gearbox driveshaft seal in while the shaft is out, wish I did :(

#4 smiley

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 07:58 PM

Wil gearbox oil come out when i pop the shaft?

#5 techieboy

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 08:46 PM

Some. Keep the car jacked up as high as you can on that side and it'll help minimise the oil loss.

#6 smiley

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:14 PM

definately put a new gearbox driveshaft seal in while the shaft is out, wish I did :(


Can't find that in the picture.
Do you have a number?

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#7 techieboy

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:28 PM


definately put a new gearbox driveshaft seal in while the shaft is out, wish I did :(


Can't find that in the picture.
Do you have a number?


No. 4 here

I've replaced my nearside driveshaft three times and never bothered replacing it. To date I've had no problem but that may be more from luck than judgement.

#8 SteveA

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 08:24 AM

Wil gearbox oil come out when i pop the shaft?


You will still loose about 1/2 litre no matter how high you get it.

#9 Nev

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 08:34 AM

I'd recommend draining the gearbox oil into a clean tub, inspect it and replace it if necessary. Luckily the F23 grearbox has a magnet in it, so it should be free of steel particles. Also, this allows you to check you actually have enough oil in the box, most people try to run 1.75 to 2.0 Litres in there as the OEM level is considerered a bit low. This would help with cooling and longetivy of the box, though may cause slight power losses. The issue with driveshaft seals is that they are quite fragile - you need to insert the driveshafts back in as in-line as possible so as not to stress/pressusise the seals. Also, if your driveshaft sits in a slightly diff position, the rubber on the seal may no longer be located on the nice shiney metal (ie over a resuty section of the shaft), which in turn can cause it to weap. HTH.

Edited by Nev, 08 August 2012 - 08:40 AM.


#10 smiley

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 12:19 PM

After some searching here (yes, it is done sometimes) i think i have clear on how to fill the gearbox oil. One thing remaining is how to see when it is full? (preferably with a picture, as i am sometimes struggeling with english enough as it is) I have a gearbox breather, and changing gears has never been easy, so i'm curious if there is enough in there to begin with. And everybody thanks a lot for all good advice so far chinky chinky

Edited by smiley, 08 August 2012 - 12:21 PM.


#11 techieboy

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 12:24 PM

You just remove the oil level plug on the side of the gearbox and keep pouring oil into the filler hole on the top, until it starts coming out of the oil level hole. Not sure it will work for whatever breather you have but with my ProAlloy gearbox breather, I can use it as a remote filler and just pour the fresh oil into that and it flows back down into the gearbox.

#12 SteveA

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 12:33 PM

Just to the right of the arrow number 1 is pointing at is the fill point. On the second image the level plug is just above the identification label.

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#13 smiley

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 12:54 PM

oh, i hate those drawings. Anybody a photo of the level plug? (in contrast with other engine parts) I was also thinking of going the breather tube way to fill it.

#14 techieboy

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 01:07 PM

It's just about impossible to get a picture of it, with the gearbox in the car due to the subframe. It's literally on the side of the diff housing that you'll remove the driveshaft from, facing the back of the car.

#15 techieboy

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 01:12 PM

Okay, here you go.

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You can see the white socket for the reversing light switch on the top left. Centre of the picture, where the foam block is, is the hole that the driveshaft plugs into. Then around the side above the identity label, is the level plug.

#16 smiley

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 01:44 PM

That will do perfect. Imnotworthy

#17 smiley

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 02:13 PM

Another pixie for future search users.

Posted Image
Oh, and most referred to gearbox oil seems to be GL4 75W90 synthetic of brand at choice.

Edited by smiley, 08 August 2012 - 02:24 PM.


#18 smiley

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 04:21 PM

Swap went very smooth. I used the shaft from an Astra H (aka MK5) 1.7 cdti (don't know partnumber) which also has the F23 gearbox. You do need the locknut fom that shaft though, as it's different (32mm instead of 30 i think) So far no leaks. Fingers crossed.

Edited by smiley, 09 August 2012 - 04:23 PM.


#19 techieboy

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 04:30 PM

I used the shaft from an Astra H (aka MK5) 1.7 cdti (don't know partnumber) which also has the F23 gearbox.
You do need the locknut fom that shaft though, as it's different (32mm instead of 30 i think).


That's handy to know. Wonder if the CV joint and/or boot repair kits are more sensibly priced than the VX's. :unsure:

#20 smiley

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 04:49 PM

Probably. Complete shafts are on the bay for silly low money (list price for new speedster shaft was 750 euro) Would like to get my hands on some part numbers to get some pricing. If they are afordable new it could be very interesting. compatible shafts: 1.3 CDTI Z13DTH 1.7 CDTI Z17DTH, Z17DTR

Edited by smiley, 09 August 2012 - 04:50 PM.





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