173 replies to this topic

[vocky]

you can see in this picture where the heater hose has been slid along the alloy heater pipe by approx 20mm - behind the washer bottle
Also how the wire loom from the new heater switch runs down the driver side - just to the left of the bonnet catch

Edited by vocky, 20 November 2012 - 12:01 PM.

[cressey]

Can someone with the correct position of pipes please send me a photo to replace in the guide?

Ask and you shall receive.

[vocky]

the valve in the above picture is also the correct way round with the hoses in the original factory position

[siztenboots]

always makes me laugh , the brake fluid reservoir held on with a cable tie, thanks lotus

[smiley]

always makes me laugh , the brake fluid reservoir held on with a cable tie, thanks lotus

Still in place in a brand new testa.
Seems to ba a proven practice.

[Darcini]

Just a quick heads up when fitting, make sure the four cross head screws on the diverter valve (indicated below) are good and tight.
Mine weren't so had a water leak, quick tighten and all is now good. And I now have a MUCH improved heater

[TazN]

2. Pull off the all green wire on the top of the fan speed selector (middle dial), attach the green piggyback connector and reconnect.

Fitting my heater in today seeing as the rad is still out for a swap so gives a bit more room. Not too sure how to go about this ^^ how should I piggyback off the other connector?

As it's not needed to be done till the end I've carried on to point of battery removal. So far I have to say nothing to difficult but seriously back breaking bending over the crashbox constantly. Will be replacing battery for a new one I think with a handle and definitely cleaning up the bits that attach to the battery terminals, they are just a blob of gunk....

[fezzasus]

There should be a red spade piggy back connector, pull off the original green cable, push on the new green cable from the heater control wire, then push the original cable onto the new spade connector.

[TazN]

5 mins this morning has seen the connector issue solved and the old heater unit out. sleep works wonders

[fezzasus]

thumbsup/>

5 mins this morning has seen the connector issue solved and the old heater unit out. sleep works wonders :beat:/>

You'll be done in an hour.

[leevx2.2]

Does it matter . What way pipes go on ,and valve is I wouldn't think so but took car out yesterday and heater started blowing cold ?

[TazN]

Think my will has finally broken. I managed to get the new unit in place and finally got the rad bolted on to it - this alone has taken me 2 hours this morning as the holes wouldn't line up only for me to take everything back out and find they then started to align properly... 30mins tea break and I managed to get it all put back in and get the rad bolted on to it! Then the last of the 4 bolts rolled under the unit and disappeared completely. Magnetic reacher has come up empty as has taking photos of under the unit. B&Q tomorrow for an M5 bolt suitable...

Edited by TazN, 03 February 2013 - 01:02 PM.

[fezzasus]

Does it matter . What way pipes go on ,and valve is I wouldn't think so but took car out yesterday and heater started blowing cold ?

Looking at the unit it will matter. If the valve is the wrong way (like in my original photo) then water will force the valve open and get into a bypass loop. Make sure it's set up so the pass. side hose is at the front and the drivers side is at the rear.

You'll need to drive it a bit to clear any air lock that has been made from swapping the hoses over. If that doesn't work try pulling off the connector on top of the valve and plug a multi meter in to it, set the heat control to the middle. The voltage should pulse every other second. If its constant voltage then one of the cables between the controller in the cabin and the circuit board have come out.

Let me know how you get on.

Edited by fezzasus, 03 February 2013 - 03:41 PM.

[fezzasus]

Think my will has finally broken. I managed to get the new unit in place and finally got the rad bolted on to it - this alone has taken me 2 hours this morning as the holes wouldn't line up only for me to take everything back out and find they then started to align properly...
30mins tea break and I managed to get it all put back in and get the rad bolted on to it! Then the last of the 4 bolts rolled under the unit and disappeared completely. Magnetic reacher has come up empty as has taking photos of under the unit.

B&Q tomorrow for an M5 bolt suitable...

They're M4, the head type shouldn't matter.

[nicollow]

So to be clear, the diverter side hose connector joins with the drivers side hose?

[fezzasus]

Ben's photo is correct

[nicollow]

Cool. That goes against what you said here does it not through?! :S

Looking at the unit it will matter. If the valve is the wrong way (like in my original photo) then water will force the valve open and get into a bypass loop. Make sure it's set up so the pass. side hose is at the front and the drivers side is at the rear.

[fezzasus]

I'm getting heater blindness, you're right. should be pass side at the rear and drivers side at the front.

Edited by fezzasus, 06 February 2013 - 08:14 AM.

[Captain Vimes]

I'm getting heater blindness, you're right. should be pass side at the rear and drivers side at the front.

Could a mod/admin update the original thread to show the pipes connected the correct way round as above?

I'm sure I'm not the only one to have followed the original instructions and then realised that I've done it wrong AFTER it's all back together

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

I'm getting heater blindness, you're right. should be pass side at the rear and drivers side at the front.

Could a mod/admin update the original thread to show the pipes connected the correct way round as above?

I'm sure I'm not the only one to have followed the original instructions and then realised that I've done it wrong AFTER it's all back together

what we did it wrong?

I thought we put them the same as the pic above?