173 replies to this topic

[fezzasus]

Hi Stephan.

 

You will need to undo the silicon hose from the metal elbow barbs and turn the barbs to face the other way, it looks like I was on auto-pilot when I did that and set it up for a RHD unit, so one may have been cut too short.

[Steffe]

Ok, thanks for the information! I will take a closer look at this tomorrow.

[oblomov]

Belay that enquiry - answered my own question.

Edited by oblomov, 31 March 2014 - 02:12 PM.

[iain3915]

Good god that old heater was difficult to get out - I recommend removing the wiring clips that get in the way!

 

I have two questions:

 

1. Do I have the heater far enough to the driver's side of the car?  See photos below.  It seems the only place that it would bolt in but it doesn't leave much room at all for the battery yet there is a couple of inches spare at the driver's side.

 

2. Can the connector that goes through to the dash to control temperature be unscrewed so that it fits through the hole in the dash?  See picture below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Any help would be much appreciated as with it being a rare sunny bank holiday weekend in Scotland I just want to get out driving it!

 

 

Edited by iain3915, 18 April 2014 - 05:17 PM.

[iain3915]

Actually, show the four bolts to the car go through the holes with the rubber bits in them?

[iain3915]

Thankfully, I figured out the point about the bolts!  They go through the rubber bungs which means the heater fits snug to the driver's side of the chassis.

 

It'll be a good advert for the heater when someone as incompetent as me fits one!

 

Looking forward to finishing the job tomorrow.  If anyone knows the answer regarding unscrewing the end of the temperature control connector to allow it to fit through dash it would be appreciated.

[fezzasus]

Hi Iain, I've been away from my computer most of the day so only just seen this, you are correct about the rubber bungs - the latest heater design is both RHD and LHD so the other holes are for LHD heaters. I would suggest using a drill or file to slightly widen the hole in the dash, normally the plugs fit straight through but the hole size appears to vary depending on the drill bit they reached for the the factory.

[iain3915]

Thanks Tom, I'll file the hole a little bit larger tomorrow.  It's very very close to going through already.

[cressey]

I think the non-potted controllers can get wet and fail. All new ones are potted, although I have had a worrying number of people (about five) have this problem. PM me your address and i'll get a replacement to you in the next week or so.

Hey Tom. I fitted mine ages ago and have never been able to get cool air. Have been a bit lazy as the car is just a weekender toy now but guess mine is one with a non-potted controller. Is there anything I can try before you send a replacement? I can't really be arsed to do much more fiddling if there's an easy test/fix.

[fezzasus]

Unplug the wire going to the valve, test the voltage on that when the temperature is set to half way, it should pulse between 12v and 0v, if that's the case then it's the valve, if it isn't the case then it's the controller

[cressey]

Good idea. Will have to wait til the weekend when I'm home and can get to my multi-meter. Really can't be bothered with pulling the dash apart again but my guess is the controller.

[p4cks]

Just fitted mine, and only a couple of problems. (mk 2.8)

 

* The holes for the heater to attach to the plate had some plastic screws snapped inside (don't know how they got there but they were a bastard to remove).

* The rubber grommets prevented the bolts going through the plate so I had to remove them

* I think there might be air in my system as although the power of the fan is greatly improved, the temperature isn't

 

All in all though, a fairly straightforward mod and although I had the latest incarnation of the heater so didn't need to follow the instructions point to point, following the instructions (that I'd printed out) was made difficult by the amount of pointless posts on it

[fezzasus]

Thanks for point that out. I use the plastic screws to prevent over tightening as i've had one case of the fan surround cracking due to over tightening, i'm aware that in transportation this makes the screws more brittle. I will change to posting disassembled with bagged screws.

 

The bolts do fit through the grommets with a bit of force. This is to isolate the fan vibration from the chassis, the grommet type hasn't changed so I suspect it was just a case of being unfamiliar with fitting.

 

Air should clear with use, if not then use the two bleed nipples  in the engine bay (they are the heater feed and return).

[p4cks]

I took them out and just used padding so it wasn't metal against metal.

 

All in all though a fabulously designed and manufactured bit of kit

 

Removal of the cheap, old, useless, flimsy heater was made easier with a mallet. What a POS that thing really is.

[siztenboots]

On the way to Spa and back I was having trouble getting the cold setting to work , are there any terminals I can get a meter on to check ?

[fezzasus]

As above Steve, take the connector to the silver valve off, set the heat to the middle setting and check if it's pulsing between 12 and 0 v. 

[haggi961]

I'm just about to fit this now and was wondering if there's a more up to date fitting guide as this heater looks diffrent to the one on page one.

[haggi961]

Didn't get the four bolts that bolt the heater to the chassis. Will stainless steel bolts be ok?

Edited by haggi961, 04 May 2014 - 04:45 PM.

[haggi961]

Anyone???? I know stainless steel bolts are not good with aluminium but looks like bolt is resting against the rubber grommet so it's not touching.

[JG]

steel bolts will be fine