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How To Make A Carbon Fibre Rear View Mirror

Carbon Fibre Rear View Mirror

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#1 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:40 PM

Most would agree the OEM rear view mirror is needlessly large and ugly. I am in the process of making my own smaller sexier version out of CF and due to popular demand have compiled this DIY guide.

The starting point of this mod is a cheap and cheerfull suction mirror. You only need this for the glass mirror itself the new mirror will be 99% made out of CF. Any mirror you like the shape of will do really the process outlined will be the same. You could even cut your own out of plastic mirror sheet.

I would hate to imagine the cost of buying a CF mirror I would imagine it will be well over 3 figures! Mine will have cost me around a fiver. :lol: If you do not have the stock of materials allready like I had obviously it will cost you a bit more to buy in what you need. If you go to www.easycomposites.co.uk they sell all you will need. You can get a small 1m length of CF cloth and this 500ml pack of resin for under £40.

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That will be more than enough for this project, you could sell on the excess or try your hand at making something else.


You will need -

> Cheap suction mirror. I got mine for £2.99 from Wilkinsons but you can get the same on ebay.
> Carbon Fibre cloth
> Epoxy coating resin and hardener
> Not essential but you may want some black skinning base coat resin
> Paint brushes
> Mixing cups
> Long nails and a piece of wood
> Various fine grades of sand paper and possibly an electric belt sander
> Some sort of hard foam. I used cavity wall insulation as it sands really nicely. Oasis stuff for flower arranging would probably do or at a push balsa wood. If you're really struggling I can send you a piece.
> Polish or a clear spray lacquer
> Scissors, sellotape, marker pen


To start pull off your original mirror and prise open the casing.

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Extract the piece of plastic with the cup socket on it and dremel off most of the surrounding plastic until you are left with a compact piece that will fit easilly into the new mirror. I don't have photos of this but you should leave a bit around it so it keeps its strength. I think the cup is supposed to have a split in it to allow it to open up a bit when pushing on. It was alot tighter when I refitted it so I assume this was due to it not being able to expand anymore. No bother I just had to sand the windscreens ball mount a bit to get it back on.

Take your slab of foam and draw around the mirror glass.

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Draw on the markings as shown. You want about a 1cm deep border line all the way around the sides this is to give you some leeway to get your front edge of the mirror right when cutting back your formed carbon fibre.

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Next sand back right up to the outline of the mirror glass.

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Then sand the foam to the shape you want being carefull to only go as far as the 1cm line you drew.
You need the top to be wider than the bottom so aim for a smooth wedge shape profile.

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If you want you can make a hollow and push the plastic cup into the foam at this stage rather than securing it in later.

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Take your scrap of wood, draw around the glass and hammer some nails all the way through.

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#2 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:41 PM

Flip it over and stab your foam onto the make shift supports.

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Part two to follow when I can be arsed...

#3 nicollow

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:45 PM

Doesnt look very carbon fibrey to me!! :P Post up the rest of it then ;)

#4 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:49 PM

Patience! I'll probably post more tmrw.

#5 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 10:22 PM

Go on then bit more -

Mix up some of your resin and coat the foam. This is where the black skinning stuff would be more suited as you can let it dry to a tack and the cloth will stick alot better. If you're a tight arse you can use glass fibre tissue for the early layers.

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This is the most important layer as it will be forming the main internal frame around the mirror when you put it in. So make sure it is perfectly flat against the foam all over. Have a generous overhang of cloth when you drape it over and then secure it round the bottom with a mixture of tape and rubber bands.

When ever you cut off a length of cloth first stick on a length of tape and then cut through the middle of it. This will keep the edges together and stop it fraying or stretching too much which will ruin the weave.

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Don't worry how pretty it looks at this stage just try and keep it smooth.

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Saturate the cloth and leave it to dry over night.

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Missed a few photos from this stage but basically just keep building up the layers and sanding smooth each time. Once you have about two or three done it should be strong enough to take off the stand and scrape out the foam. The edges will be very ragged at this point that is why you had the 1cm margin so you have room to cut it down level.

Once you have cut the edges even all the way round you are ready to lay your final outer layer. This layer can be wrapped right around the edges and stuck to the inside so the weave is continuous and visually appeally all over.

Here is the inside with the cup socket put in.

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You then drill through the top so the ball joint is free to go in.

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Edited by -Dab-of-Oppo-, 29 October 2012 - 10:29 PM.


#6 Hark

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 10:30 PM

Weave looks a bit white in that light tbh.

#7 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 10:33 PM

Weave looks a bit white in that light tbh.


Probably because it is in that picture. It is no where near finished and had just been sanded. :rolleyes:

It will buff to a perfect deep gloss. :)

#8 Rickwoo118

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 06:22 AM

I think so far it is a clear and handy guide. Looking good already!

#9 FLD

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 08:34 AM

Good stuff dude. If it helps anyone out I have a bag of carbon offcuts suitably sized for this.

#10 CocoPops

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 08:47 AM

Love the "Solid foam" plug idea.

#11 FLD

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 08:54 AM

Also used to make wings.

#12 JG

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:03 AM

Good skills thumbsup I reckon a couple more tries, and you'll have that cracked. thumbsup.

#13 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 12:22 PM

Love the "Solid foam" plug idea.


I have used it to good effect in the past but this is my first attempt with CF. It's very easy to shape compared to alot of other materials yet is still sturdy enough for most applications. The downside of it being easy to pull from is that it's sacrificial so not much good if you need more than one thing exactly the same. I suppose you could allways stick some plastic over it and cover with a releasing agent if you wanted to try and re-use it.

Edited by -Dab-of-Oppo-, 30 October 2012 - 12:32 PM.


#14 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 12:31 PM

I reckon a couple more tries, and you'll have that cracked. thumbsup.


Thanks. I still need to learn and get better, I wasn't expecting perfect results first time but am happy enough with how it's gone.

FLD you seem to be a man in the know, is this an unorthodox approach, could I have adopted a more productive method?


Anyone want to guess as to how much it weighs?! :lol: Standard mirror is probably around 240g (this is it weighed without the internal piece)

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#15 davemate

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:30 PM

Nice guide. Wing mirrors ahoy!

#16 Darcini

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:39 PM

The downside of it being easy to pull from is that it's sacrificial so not much good if you need more than one thing exactly the same. I suppose you could allways stick some plastic over it and cover with a releasing agent if you wanted to try and re-use it.


Wrap the foam plug in cling film, stretched tight so there are no wrinkles to spoil the finish thumbsup

#17 Baron Von Scubadaddy

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 03:33 PM

Or you could save even more weight by ditching it all together and using the two mirrors on the wings !!!!!! Top guide if only we could make clams the same way !

#18 FLD

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 05:46 PM

FLD you seem to be a man in the know, is this an unorthodox approach, could I have adopted a more productive method?


Its actually fairly normal for one offs. Some make a mold from the foam and sand / polish the mold to avoid having to use coating resin. Wings are made by using a hot-wire to cut the foam in the desired profile and then it is covered in carbon and put under vacuum. Using non-perforated release film with this method means there is little finishing work to do but you do have to be careful with resin quantities.

#19 slindborg

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 08:27 PM

Or you could save even more weight by ditching it all together
and using the two mirrors on the wings !!!!!!

Top guide
if only we could make clams the same way !


What he said!
I ran without a rear view mirror for years. Never caused a problem and reduced the headlight glare into yer eyes too :)
The improved visibility of left hand apexes was phenomenal too.

#20 -Dab-of-Oppo-

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 08:53 PM

I drive plenty of large vans etc with only side mirrors so am used to being without but I would still miss not having a rear view in the VX. I find it usefull and use it quite a lot personally.

This was never about saving weight, (pretty pointless with the amount of sh!t I've added to the car) I just metioned it as an aside for those who may be interested.

It's stacking up to be less than a quarter of the originals weight btw and that's without trying, it's overly strong so you could quite safely shed a few layers. :)

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Edited by -Dab-of-Oppo-, 30 October 2012 - 08:58 PM.






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