22 replies to this topic

[Jason]

So I want to pull the engine out then stick another in, how would you all do it? Any thing to look out for? I see these options (clams already off) A.) Remove subframe then engine. B.) Remove Engine with Gearbox C.) Remove just engine. I think "c" only engine is my preference so any advice? This is on an N/A Z22SE.

Edited by Јason, 30 October 2012 - 09:49 PM.

[Duncan VXR]

Engine and box in 1. No point in any other option with clam off DG

Edited by Duncan VXR, 30 October 2012 - 09:57 PM.

[Nath]

Whats the plan for the engine?

[techieboy]

Option C is the way forward. No point in disturbing the gearbox if you don't need to.

[Jason]

Nath swapping out engine as smoking like mad.... So simple one for one..

[slindborg]

gas axe

[Jason]

Well I guess that's the quickest way to get it out, although I may have issues fitting the next one....

[slindborg]

arc welder for that bit.

[leevx2.2]

Split engine and box lift engine out by itself. Don't forget to block the oil way in oil filter housing with new engine with spring out of old or you will be changing engine again very soon ;-)

[vocky]

I never touch any of the gearbox mounts, just unbolt the engine and lift it out. You do have to remove one of the water pump inspection cover bolts, it hits the subframe, removal gives another 5mm of clearance

[TheRealVXed]

:: Guide Vocky?

[vocky]

no guide really needed.... I normally remove the oil pump/crank pulley as it makes engine removal dead easy - the engine just slides off the gearbox and can be lifted straight up. If you leave the oil pump on then the water pump access panel bolt has to be removed to give more clearance, but you have to push the front of the engine towards the front of the car whilst lifting the engine out. Refitting is harder with the oil pump in place because you have to twist the engine whilst lowering it and locating the clutch splines, with the oil pump removed you can just lower it down and engage the clutch splines. I also remove the inlet manifold, alternator and starter motor before lifting the engines out.

[TheRealVXed]

Easier to remove engine or box to replace clutch would you say? Looking likely I'll have to do mine this winter...

[vocky]

if you have an engine hoist then removing the engine is much easier, but removing the gearbox is quicker because you don't need to touch the rear clam, however it's physically much harder and requires a decent trolley jack to balance the gearbox on.

[Duncan VXR]

dont forget you can remove the engine through the top with clam on but dont recoment it its close - think I may be the only person to have ever bothered lol Box changes clam on as stated and engine out half the time its easier to wip the rear clam off and take out complete - kind of depends what you are doing DG

[Jason]

Cheers all looks like this could be a useful thread for mods to pin, as couldn't find any info on this from search.

[vocky]

if you have an engine hoist then removing the engine is much easier, but removing the gearbox is quicker because you don't need to touch the rear clam, however it's physically much harder and requires a decent trolley jack to balance the gearbox on.

that should have said TWO decent trolley jacks, one to hold the engine stable and the other to help lift the heavy gearbox

[TheRealVXed]

I have a hoist thank vocky

Edited by VXed, 01 November 2012 - 11:50 AM.

[Jason]

Engines now out, didn't realise I needed to remove all the ancillaries but you do... Did some more searching and found this useful thread....

having removed one or two z22se engines I would.....

disconnect battery (quite important !)
remove rear clam
drain coolant
drain engine oil
drain chargecooler system (sc only)
remove exhaust manifold
remove inlet system
remove fuel rail and injectors (cable tie fuel pipes out of the way)
remove starter motor
remove alternator + belt tensioner
remove crank pulley (very important if leaving gearbox in place)
remove coilpack (just to stop it getting damaged)
disconnect engine loom from engine (you don't need to remove it from the car)
remove oil cooler fitting from engine block (to avoid damage)
remove the special 'vx220 only' oilway blocking metal/spring thingy (it sits inside the oil filter housing, they are extremely hard to get - don't lose it)
remove lower oil pipe + fitting from block
disconnect / remove anything else which might get damaged or I've missed off the list

then connect an engine hoist to the engine using correct lifting straps (either straps under the engine or use the engine lifting brackets)
remove the offside engine mounting alloy bracket
remove the gearbox bellhousing bolts (two next to exhaust, two above gearbox, one above starter motor, two under engine)

then it's probably time to lift the engine out, it needs to come out (and go back in) by moving the front of the engine towards the bulkhead, you will need to lever the engine off the gearbox and then simply lift it up and out

http://www.vx220.org...ps/#entry957653

Edited by Јason, 10 November 2012 - 08:06 PM.

[Jason]

So would like some HELP.... I have all but got the next engine mated up to gearbox but can't seem to get them to close up. I would of thought it should just slip on given the right angle... Dont want to use force as damage the splines..... I have removed the watermark pump inspection cover and the long metal pipe connecting to the water pump too. Any tips appreciated! :-D