50 replies to this topic

[Benzola]

OK. So I made a mistake in yesterday's post! First time I've had the headlights out, or fitted an HID kit (all kirbside, in the dark & in just 40 min's... so some credit due?). I thought I should have been fitting H1's into what I now know to be the T4W (main beam, low - the most logical replacement). It transpires I have fitted H1's where they should be & (as pointed out by Simba) the only place they will go! Must say I am very happy with the overall result. Can't believe I survived with glowworms in jam jars for so long! This will drastically improve driving in my rural location. MUCH safer... can actually see where I'm going! I just ordered some good quality 600k (for colour temp match) Osram LED's to replace the TW4's (that I now know to be the "side lights") & a 600k 55w HID kit to replace the H7's. Thanks for all your help - Ben. Pics here (fro those interested & who wanted to see the Fly Eye film): http://dl.dropbox.co...541695/BJVX.jpg

[Benzola]

Could you post a picture of your lights so I know what they look like with the film on . I may be doing the same.

As for the hids either are ok, personally I'd go for the uk ones

Hi Mate.

Sorry for the delay. Here are the pics you requested. Contrary to comments, I think Fly Eye is a great way of covering crappy lenses & hiding condensation. These shots of Fly Eye at dusk (with HID fitted). I will snap a few in the daylight (when I get a chance) so you can see how the film gives lenses a "solid(ish) black" appearance when headlights off. Cheers - Ben.

http://dl.dropbox.co...541695/BJVX.jpg

PS: Fly Eye is best fitted with headlight unit out (so you can "wrap" round the edges). Clean unit with panel wash first. Apply (cold) to front of lens (leaving plenty of "overhang" to wrap round sides).... heat overhang with a hairdryer / low powered hot air gun... stretch round sides for seamless adhesion... trim off excess. Simple!

[MrSimba]

Glad its all good!

[MrSimba]

Watch going to HID on the 'full' beam tho, I did that a few years ago and hated it, you lost the ability to 'flash' other drivers as the ballasts need to warm up, and whilst night driving they fire up and then when traffic comes the other way you switch them off and then get the same delay when you go back on beam again. Very good for the dipped & even H4 fog lights but not the main beam IMHO

[nicollow]

Watch going to HID on the 'full' beam tho, I did that a few years ago and hated it, you lost the ability to 'flash' other drivers as the ballasts need to warm up, and whilst night driving they fire up and then when traffic comes the other way you switch them off and then get the same delay when you go back on beam again.

Very good for the dipped & even H4 fog lights but not the main beam IMHO

[Benzola]

Thanks Simba. Ballast delay on "full beam" has been considered. But given the amount of county lane driving I do I think the trade off may prove beneficial. I'll give it a whirl & feedback. Given that I scored a full h7 HID kit for £23, I won't cry should I revert to original bulbs. Cheers folks. Ben.

[Benzola]

Replaced the TW4's today (10 min's each side) with 600k Osram LED's. Well pleased with result! Also put 600k LED replacements into number plate lights for all round "whiteness". Awaiting arrival of HiD H7's. Will feed back with pics when fitted.

I'm now interested to know peoples thoughts on H3's:

1. Is there a half decent 600k LED H3 replacement or is a THIRD set of HiD's & ballast the best way forward?
2. Can I put in HiD 600k bulb or Halfords look-a-like's requiring no ballast without killing the loom / fuse box (as I'm hesitant of having 3 sets of ballast strapped on!)?
3. What is best method of accessing H3's? (a) Reaching through with headlamp units out ( Jacking up... front wheels off & wheel arch liners out?

As always cheers for all your help & advise - Ben.

PS: Simba. After HiD warm up tests I a reconsidering H7's (they take an eternity to reach temp).... Will do thorough country lane tests (with HiD H7's & LED H1's) before committing. Thanks for wise words!

[turbobob]

I'm confused. Where is the h3 bulb? And personally I wouldn't run hids in the main beam. Its actually the bulb that gets up to temp. The gas in tthe bulb turns into plasma. The plasma conducts electricity making it more active and less resistance. Lower resistansemce means more current flow and even more active etc. This would result in the bulb popping. The ballast is there to control the power / current flow. As for overloading with ballasts. It doesn't matter how many you have. Its the power consumption that matters. Dipped and main beam have 55w bulbs fitted as standard. So the wiring is just capable of taking that current. Fitting a 35 or 55w hid kit is therefore fine. Edit I would just fit something like an osram nightbreaker for the main beam as the are bright enough and instant.

Edited by turbobob, 08 January 2013 - 07:59 PM.

[Benzola]

I'm confused. Where is the h3 bulb?

And personally I wouldn't run hids in the main beam. Its actually the bulb that gets up to temp. The gas in tthe bulb turns into plasma. The plasma conducts electricity making it more active and less resistance. Lower resistansemce means more current flow and even more active etc. This would result in the bulb popping. The ballast is there to control the power / current flow.

As for overloading with ballasts. It doesn't matter how many you have. Its the power consumption that matters. Dipped and main beam have 55w bulbs fitted as standard. So the wiring is just capable of taking that current. Fitting a 35 or 55w hid kit is therefore fine.

Edit I would just fit something like an osram nightbreaker for the main beam as the are bright enough and instant.

Thanks Bob. Worthy comments. H3 spotlights? At least that's what I've been lead to believe. Any tips on getting at spots? Ben.

[turbobob]

Spotlights? Are you talking about the front fog lights?

[Benzola]

Spotlights? Are you talking about the front fog lights?

Yes.