984 replies to this topic

[vocky]

fuel tank panel 

[Aerodynamic]

fuel tank panel 

 

Is this from underside?

[vocky]

yes, remove the handbrake cable, then the alloy panel below the fuel tank. There is usually enough room to access the coolant hose connections without removing the standard fuel tank, not sure with a ProAlloy tank

 

[Aerodynamic]

Hi everyone, time for some update.
2weeks ago I installed the engine, I wasnt 100% satisfied because it was 2mm moved to the right side and was hanging 5mm down one the right side. So I put a 5mm washer under the engine mount, I did this to prevent the engine mount steel part to touch the subframe.
Now the engine is close to be 100% streight in all direction.


Yesterday i mounted the driveshafts, they fitted quite nicely and they also proved that the engine was in a good position, the deviation between the movement inwards between right and leftside driveshaft was about 0.5mm. And totalt inward movement of about 12mm.
So this felt good too.

Im also about to connect the cooling hooses 2 out of 4 are ready. I ordered some parts for this and didnt get the right parts
But the supplier fixed this without arguing and a new part is on the way.

Does anyone know what the thing marked in red below is?


Thanks, Per

And no, my damn windows 8.1 isn`t working, I send this from the pad.

[GeorgeBC]

Fuel cut off switch

 

[Aerodynamic]

Fuel cut off switch

 

 

How does it work?. Does all cars have something like this?

[GeorgeBC]

 

Fuel cut off switch

 

 

How does it work?. Does all cars have something like this?

 

Its just a ball inside the housing with a switch on top under the rubber grommet. The switch is normally closed allowing the fuel pump to run. On a heavy impact the ball is shaken around and makes the switch so the connections are broken. If your car wont prime fuel then you push the cutoff and you can feel it click/engage. Some race cars run without and bypass them as they have other systems but its advisable to leave it connected on a road car.

[Jason]

Does this switch reset itself?  As after spinning the car on Car Limits day the car just seems to take time to restart this I presume could be the reason?

[fezzasus]

Does this switch reset itself?  As after spinning the car on Car Limits day the car just seems to take time to restart this I presume could be the reason?

 

The older they get, the worse they become at resetting. New ones are about £10.

[Aerodynamic]

Thinking of changing the fuel filter and can¨´t find any OEM filters on ebay.

Does anyone have any recommendation of a good aftermarket filter

or can tell me what I shouldn´t buy?!

 

Br, Per

[siztenboots]

Does this switch reset itself?  As after spinning the car on Car Limits day the car just seems to take time to restart this I presume could be the reason?

 

exhaust gas gone backwards up the intake manifold if you don't get on the clutch quick

[Aerodynamic]

Finding the right fuel filter was a pain, 2 days of investigaton and I think I sort it out. The thread on my car is a M16*1.5 but there is also the "same" filter out there with M14*1.5 , M18*1.5 thread and barb hoose fitting. It seams like a atd design used in a great variation of cars. Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

I've been trying to get a small licens plate here in sweden for my previous car like 10 years ago without success.
Now lately I've heard rumours about it was easier to get them again and I ran into a thread about this. So earlier this week I gave it a try and yesterday I got this in my mail box.


I'm sure it will make my car look better together with som other mods.


This engine conversion is a lot more then I thought but another thing on the list is ready.
A mount to hold the gear shift cables on the Honda gearbox.


Next is a mount for the gear shift linkage.

Thanks

[Aerodynamic]

Hej igen.

Bara för att det inte uppdateras här betyder det inte att det inte jobbas.

Svetsat ihop ett rör till kylsystemet men precis innan så kom jag på att jag hade en 180 grader Silicon slang som
jag inte räknade med. genom att använda den så behövde jag inte kapa original slangen så mycket som jag hade behövt om jag satt dit röret och blir det fel så skulle jag behöva plocka ner tanken å grejer.
Problemet är att det istället blev ett litet veck på original slangen.
Så nu vet jag inte vilken jag ska välja.


Funderade på vad jag behövde för en LHD konvertering och kom fram till att men denna hoppas jag att det
är nästan det enda jag behöver. Fanns 2 i Sverige och denna fick jag för ett bra pris och lokalt med.
Torkar armatur så att torkaren vilar på höger sida i stället för vänster som den gör nu.


Och sen en liten provmontering av bak clamen med. När motorn är i rätt position har jag ungeför 2mm emellan
vilket är ungefär 15mm mer än vad jag räknat med. Så det är bra.


Fler uppdateringar inom kort.

Med vänlig hälsning, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Hi again It´s been a while since last update, but this is because of hard work ;-) I welded together aluminium pipes to have on the right side for the cooling system, for this I need the 60 deg silicone hoose and cut the OEM hoose near the subframe. Then I found I had one extra spare 180deg hoose and together with this 60deg hoose I didn´t need to cut the OEM hoose Close to the subframe, minimising the risk of cut it in the wrong way and have to take down the tank. Unfortunately the OEM hoose got a littleflatted in the bend so now I concider putting the welded pipie again. I will have a bit smaller area but less joints. Any ideas? pipes_zpsedecf84d.jpg I will also convert my car to LHD this spring and my idea is to buy as Little as possible for this conversion but I thought I buy this one so I don´t have to spend a few Days just changing this one so the wiper arm is resting on the right side. torkararmatur_zps033499c8.jpg I also test fitted the rear clam and the Engine came about 7mm below the clam, however the Engine was not sitting in the Engine mount but I belive the Engine will be about 5mm higher then in this Picture, giving me a clear 2mm of space. This is atleast 15mm more space then I thought I would have, this is positiv. I´m a littlebit concerd about the heat from the exhaust manifold a´nd I don´t feel like removing the trunk space. Maybe I have to cut a littlebit to have some more air in between. Also the exhaust manifold came a bit low futher back, I had this into acount and will make my own diffuser design later with space for my exhaust manifold. rearclamonengine_zpsaaa81ed1.jpg More updates to come shortly. Best Regards, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Today some more things dropped in.

[Aerodynamic]

Today there have been another day in the garage.
I didn´t want to drill any hole into the frame so I try to glue a mount, it didn´say how strong the glue was on this variant but other tubes with glue had values around 8 000-32 000 kg/m. I chose this one because if was resistnat to Chemicals, so counting low this should be able to handle 5000kg/m. The area which is glued is 7x9cm so it should be able to handle atleat 30kg. And there will be Another mount for the oil cooler.



Med vänlig hälsning, Per

[Aerodynamic]

So Another day in the garage, as Always you don´t get as much done as expected. but I got a few things done.

I made a mount for the Honda filler neck with honda cooling pressure valve and expansion tank.

Also shift linkage version 1.0 with a rocker arm since the Honda linkage was going in the wrong way at one of
the wires is ready any mounted, alomst 100% finish need some lock sprints.

I also made a mount for the Cable for the clutch.


Thank you, Per

[Aerodynamic]

So, it concerns me a bit with the exhaust manifold.
Will it be to Close the the luggage space and I want to keep it.

Does anyone have an idea? I don´t have the clam really available to test it at the moment.

Will I need a heat shield overe here or maybe cut som material from luggage space space to give some more air in between.



Br, Per

[smiley]

A few on the dutch forum removed the oem heatshield, and just put an extra layer of nimbus against the luggage part, all the way up to the top, so no fiberglass is exposed to the heat.