Jump to content


Photo

Honda K24 Powered Speedster


  • Please log in to reply
984 replies to this topic

#261 Arno

Arno

    Need to get Out More

  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,237 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 23 April 2014 - 11:36 AM

Also trying to figure out what to do with the Electrics and started to look at Engine harness.
Only 2 out of four connectors fits to the ecu, hmmmmm, why?
Posted Image
I also have a complete harness for a Acura RSX (same as Civic type R)
 

 

The long grey connector is called the 'C101' connector and attaches to the Civic 'body' harness and carries signals like the rpm, fan control, etc.

 

Normally there are 3 connectors installed on a Honda ECU. The 2 you already used ('A' and 'B' ) for the engine harness and normaly the 'E' connector all the way at the other end for extra signals like the lambda sensor wires and heater control. Some of these are connected back via the C101 connector to get to the right locations.

 

If you have a PRB ECU (from an Acura RSX, American ECU) then you can examine this wiring diagram for some tips on the 'E' connector and the C101 and the interconnect harness you need to build:

 

Posted Image

 

 

If you have an European PRA ECU (EU Civic Type R EP3) then this diagram is *incorrect* in several areas as some pins are different on the PRB and the American ECU also uses a wideband 1st sensor as standard, while the european PRA ECU uses a narrowband lambda sensor.

 

For more diagrams I'd suggest looking at Ebay for some Civic and RSX service manuals on CD as these include the wiring diagrams.

 

The STACK in the Speedster has mostly normal discrete inputs (eg. rpm signal is simple pulse signal). Only the temperature readout is a pulse-width modulated signal that normally comes from the Opel ECU in the car and you would need to emulate that. Some schematics with a small PIC are floating around to do that.

 

Bye, Arno.



#262 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:03 PM

Hi super duper Arno, thank you so much, really apreciated. My ECU should be a 02-04 ACURA RSX RSX-S ECU 37820-PRB-a06 Vtec DC5. My Engine harness is from a Acura RSX 02 so his seems right too. But I´m not sure what the other harnesses are. You don´t have any Electric scheme also for the VX220/Speester? The ABS is separate and wasn´t connected to the OEM ECU at all, neither the fuel tank lever indicator? "Only the temperature readout is a pulse-width modulated signal that normally comes from the Opel ECU in the car and you would need to emulate that. Some schematics with a small PIC are floating around to do that." I Think I understand what you mean with this. :-) I have bought a tunerview and going to have a separate screen Close to the OEM stack so maybe I don´t need the temp into the OEM stack. Thank you so much. Best Regards, Per

#263 Ormes

Ormes

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,612 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Corsham (nr. Chippenham)

Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:14 PM

http://www.speedster...rams/index.html

 

thumbsup


Edited by Ormes, 23 April 2014 - 07:14 PM.


#264 vocky

vocky

    Moderator

  • 11,969 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Earth

Posted 23 April 2014 - 07:55 PM

vx220 loom plug pins

 

 

 

X2 - BLUE PLUG pin 1 = bn/pk (pin 87 of relay K18, +12v for fuel injectors) pin 2 = wh/bk (instrument - rev counter) + (start relay K24 pin 9) pin 3 = bn/rd (post cat lambda) pin 4 = bk/rd (post cat lambda) pin 5 = gn (+12v FuseBox 7, ignition switched) pin 6 = bk/rd (post cat lambda) pin 7 = bn/pk (post cat lambda) pin 8 = wh/vt (+12v for relay coil, pin 85 - fuel pump relay K16) pin 9 = gn/bu (instrument - coolant temp gauge [PWM - pulsed signal from ecu]) pin 10 = n/c pin 11 = n/c pin 12 = gn/pk (0v for relay coil, pin 85 - ECU relay K18) pin 13 = bu/gy (0v for relay coil, pin 85 - radiator fan relay) X3 - BLACK PLUG pin 1 = ye (throttle pedal) pin 2 = gn (throttle pedal) pin 3 = bu (throttle pedal) pin 4 = bk (throttle pedal) pin 5 = wh (throttle pedal) pin 6 = bn (throttle pedal) pin 7 = n/c pin 8 = bn/bu (instrument - oil pressure light) pin 9 = wh/ye (immobiliser) pin 10 = bn/bu (instrument - engine management light) pin 11 = ye/gy (ABS pin 3 - speed signal for engine ecu) pin 12 = n/c pin 13 = vt (+12v FuseBox 8, permanent live)

 


Edited by vocky, 23 April 2014 - 07:56 PM.


#265 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:09 PM

vx220 loom plug pins       X2 - BLUE PLUG pin 1 = bn/pk (pin 87 of relay K18, +12v for fuel injectors) pin 2 = wh/bk (instrument - rev counter) + (start relay K24 pin 9) pin 3 = bn/rd (post cat lambda) pin 4 = bk/rd (post cat lambda) pin 5 = gn (+12v FuseBox 7, ignition switched) pin 6 = bk/rd (post cat lambda) pin 7 = bn/pk (post cat lambda) pin 8 = wh/vt (+12v for relay coil, pin 85 - fuel pump relay K16) pin 9 = gn/bu (instrument - coolant temp gauge [PWM - pulsed signal from ecu]) pin 10 = n/c pin 11 = n/c pin 12 = gn/pk (0v for relay coil, pin 85 - ECU relay K18) pin 13 = bu/gy (0v for relay coil, pin 85 - radiator fan relay) X3 - BLACK PLUG pin 1 = ye (throttle pedal) pin 2 = gn (throttle pedal) pin 3 = bu (throttle pedal) pin 4 = bk (throttle pedal) pin 5 = wh (throttle pedal) pin 6 = bn (throttle pedal) pin 7 = n/c pin 8 = bn/bu (instrument - oil pressure light) pin 9 = wh/ye (immobiliser) pin 10 = bn/bu (instrument - engine management light) pin 11 = ye/gy (ABS pin 3 - speed signal for engine ecu) pin 12 = n/c pin 13 = vt (+12v FuseBox 8, permanent live)

Thank you all so far, I really need help with this. Vocky is it these 2 connectors that are going to the OEM ECU and are most important for my wiring? Or any other connnector I should pay attention too? BR, Per

#266 vocky

vocky

    Moderator

  • 11,969 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Earth

Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:12 PM

Also figuring where these 2 connectors should fit
Posted Image

 

these are the blue and black plugs 


Edited by vocky, 23 April 2014 - 08:12 PM.


#267 vocky

vocky

    Moderator

  • 11,969 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Earth

Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:14 PM

the blue and black plugs are the main wiring loom interface between the engine and the body, so provide all the power and signals etc

 

With the z22se engine / ecu loom removed you need to connect your new Honda engine loom and ecu to them


Edited by vocky, 23 April 2014 - 08:14 PM.


#268 Arno

Arno

    Need to get Out More

  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,237 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 24 April 2014 - 06:44 AM

The ABS is separate and wasn´t connected to the OEM ECU at all, neither the fuel tank lever indicator?

ABS ECU should send the speed signal to the original ECU as well,but the Honda ECU uses it's own speed pulse on the gearbox so does not need that.

 

Not sure if on the Speedster the speed signal goes via the ECU to the dash or if it's spliced from the ABS unit directly, but that's easy to change if needed.

 

Fuel tank level is completely separate from the ECU and goes directly to the dash.  

"Only the temperature readout is a pulse-width modulated signal that normally comes from the Opel ECU in the car and you would need to emulate that. Some schematics with a small PIC are floating around to do that." I Think I understand what you mean with this. :-) I have bought a tunerview and going to have a separate screen Close to the OEM stack so maybe I don´t need the temp into the OEM stack.

  Yup.. If you are going to use a different/new dash then you can disregard the whole coolant temperature signal issue.   You could in that case even look into some of the options that are available for the PRB Kpro with setting up a data-link between the ECU and a digital dash and get a lot of (ECU) data directly displayed on the dash. Hondata has various interface options available.

 

Bye, Arno.



#269 Exmantaa

Exmantaa

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,982 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 24 April 2014 - 07:46 AM

"Only the temperature readout is a pulse-width modulated signal that normally comes from the Opel ECU in the car and you would need to emulate that. Some schematics with a small PIC are floating around to do that." I Think I understand what you mean with this. :-) I have bought a tunerview and going to have a separate screen Close to the OEM stack so maybe I don´t need the temp into the OEM stack.  

 

We made a temperature readout unit wit a small programmed PIC for our LSJ ecu. Works perfect and for sure we can make you one for not much cost.  PM for more details.



#270 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 24 April 2014 - 07:39 PM

the blue and black plugs are the main wiring loom interface between the engine and the body, so provide all the power and signals etc   With the z22se engine / ecu loom removed you need to connect your new Honda engine loom and ecu to them

Thank you so very much Vocky, sounds like I have some ground to stand on now.

#271 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 24 April 2014 - 07:49 PM

Thank you Arno for all the Input. The idea with the tunerview is that I´m going to have it to ready most of the output from the ECU and also oilpressure. Also a big thanks to you Exmantaa, I Think I´ll skip this for this summer because right now I´m going to do the simpliest possible to just get it out. But I might fix this till next Winter and then I will ask you and see what we can do, thank you. Is anyone knowing what the black kontakt on the Engine harness is? In the Swedish forums this isn´t recognised and I googled this and it seems to be quite common. Thank you all the others who are helping me in/with this Project. BR, Per

#272 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 26 April 2014 - 02:42 PM

I Think I now know what the black Contact is. This is because I have got a harness from a RSX with automatic transmission and this is not what I have ordered. :-(

#273 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 02 May 2014 - 07:26 PM

So Ive been working online and offline lately.
I´ve ordered a new Engine harness and some other stuff.
And parts have droped in lately.

Today the postman came with these. Not much,but very important
Posted Image
I didn´t get any when bought new steering rack or new P-ends.

I also got this finilized today, just some polish on the welds and it will be fine.
Posted Image

Yesterday I was in the garage doing some metall working and made this Little adapter for my
throttle linkage. Will be installed tomorrow.
Posted Image

A Little hoose was made last week, a big thanks to the shop that helped me and gave me stuff so I could bring it home and build it together Before pressing it.
Posted Image

Also needed new brake discs so I bought these 308mm discs and now wondering how much clearence between caliper and disc I need radially? I have around 1 mm.
Posted Image

And last a new battery 22amps.
Posted Image

I actually bought this to be able to have the heater installed in the original RHD position but moved brake servo
so I could be able to remove the battery without removing the brake servo or heater installation.

Tomorrrow the big installation work will beginn.

BR, Per

Edited by Aerodynamic, 02 May 2014 - 07:29 PM.


#274 Duncan VXR

Duncan VXR

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,277 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lincolnshire
  • Interests:Anything to do with making cars faster and better than the original

Posted 05 May 2014 - 06:33 AM

You can make life easier for dash feeds by retaining oem ecu for rpm, coolant temp etc and will leave the airbag, abs etc diag port still working Just mount oem temp sensor in a coolant pipe I have not done this on an n/a but no reason it would not be the same and just merge looms all nice and neat Looking good and keep up the good work DG

#275 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 06 May 2014 - 05:46 AM

Working working working.

Steering rack with P-ends now installed after I got those lock nuts.
Also Wheel studs with new brake discs.

Posted Image

Yesterday I finaliced the throttle wire installation.
Pedel linkage installed.
Posted Image

And wire conneced to throttle body with intake pipe andfilter also installed.
Posted Image

I did also go the gearing right the first time. :-)

I also got a new EP3 harness yesterday.
I Think it looks to be more accurate this time.
Posted Image

#276 Nev

Nev

    Nipper's Minion

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,587 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bristol
  • Interests:Rock climbing, skiing, kayaking, surfing, mountaineering, budgies, chess, practical mechanics.

Posted 06 May 2014 - 07:49 AM

Very impressive project, so much work/time/expertise and clearly you know and will learn lots. However I wonder if it will be worth it, when you could have supercharged your original Z22 engine.

#277 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 06 May 2014 - 08:07 PM

Very impressive project, so much work/time/expertise and clearly you know and will learn lots. However I wonder if it will be worth it, when you could have supercharged your original Z22 engine.

Thank you NEW for the kind Words. If it is Worth it or not I don´t know. The thing is I already had the Engine Before I bought the Speedster for another planned project that didn´t happend. Maye it would have been better to have the Engine sold and supercharged it. Anyway, when this is ready and going I will have a damn good base to carry on this Project from. This is only version 2.0. BR, Per

#278 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 07 May 2014 - 05:50 AM

I found this bow at the speaeker panel behind the seats. no tex could be found except one text saying it passed the Control or somehing like this.

Anyone have a clue abuoutn what it is?
Posted Image

Br, Per

#279 Duncan VXR

Duncan VXR

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,277 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lincolnshire
  • Interests:Anything to do with making cars faster and better than the original

Posted 07 May 2014 - 06:45 AM

Proximity sensor for alarm DG

#280 Aerodynamic

Aerodynamic

    Billy No Mates

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts

Posted 07 May 2014 - 08:29 AM

You can make life easier for dash feeds by retaining oem ecu for rpm, coolant temp etc and will leave the airbag, abs etc diag port still working Just mount oem temp sensor in a coolant pipe I have not done this on an n/a but no reason it would not be the same and just merge looms all nice and neat Looking good and keep up the good work DG

Hmm, I don´t have the OEM ECU any more. I was hoping that the Honda ECU would work for RPM signal to . About ABS, I thought this was standalone from the OEM ECU? Coolant temp I will Control from my MFD I Believe. Also for the safety system, doesn´t they also use there own system? Under the dashboard there a box saying SRS. Thanks anyway, all help needed. BR, Per




8 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 8 guests, 0 anonymous users