984 replies to this topic

[Duncan VXR]

 

You can make life easier for dash feeds by retaining oem ecu for rpm, coolant temp etc and will leave the airbag, abs etc diag port still working Just mount oem temp sensor in a coolant pipe I have not done this on an n/a but no reason it would not be the same and just merge looms all nice and neat Looking good and keep up the good work DG

Hmm, I don´t have the OEM ECU any more. I was hoping that the Honda ECU would work for RPM signal to . About ABS, I thought this was standalone from the OEM ECU? Coolant temp I will Control from my MFD I Believe. Also for the safety system, doesn´t they also use there own system? Under the dashboard there a box saying SRS. Thanks anyway, all help needed. BR, Per

 

 

Standalone ECU will give you RPM, coolant feed etc. If you run direct fuel injection engines and more complex oem wiring setups it makes life a lot harder hence I have retained stock ECU for RPM and coolant feed along with access to original equipment (ABS / airbag etc) and just removed the reduntant wiring. Just mount the original temp sensor in the new engine configuration

 

You can run the oem ecu for access to airbag / ABS etc in conjunction with the standalone to retain the ABS / airbag stuff

 

ABS is standalone but connects via oem diag port - not looked at what is needed to connect to this on its own as retaining the oem ecu makes it a lot easier

 

Great work and looking a really nice install!

 

It's good to be different

 

DG

[Aerodynamic]

A day with ups and downs. I woke up this night with my son having 40 deg fever, so today I stay home and take care of him.
Also today a excavator is heter prepairing for new garage and hits a big bad rock so we need to take it away with some dynamite. So having a terrible morning and later on check the mail box and finds these.
And see my self smiling atleast a littlebit



A while later I hear knock know on the door and a man in Brown ugly clothes have a package to deliver. UPS the logos on his clothes say. And he come with these. Giving my a smile from left to right of my entire face.



BR, Per

[Duncan VXR]

Hope your son gets over the fever quickly - horrible when you children are not well

[Goosenka]

On the other hand......dynamite

[Darcini]

But on the other hand...Brown ugly clothes

[Aerodynamic]

A question. Thoe screws for the sliding pins to rear caliper. Is 8.8 OK to use? I can get 12.9 easy but they are not corrosion coated (black) I think. Thanks in Advance. BR, Per

[chris_uk]

They will be fine

[Aerodynamic]

So Hoping I will find time to put my shocks on later today. Does anyone have any idea for these dampers how much I need to adjust them to get a reaonable ruff adjusting ride height? About 115mm front and 125 rear, plus minus alot just so it won´t crap the floor when taking it down on the Wheels. Thanks, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Soon very soon I will need to fll up the cooling system on my car, does it matter for the pipes if it is red or blue coolant fluid? Whats the difference? Br, Per

[Arno]

The difference is in the additive package.

 

Most red/orange types are long-life coolant systems with OAT additives that can be left for many years without degradation in the corrosion protection. The blue/green types of coolant are usually meant to be changed every few years or so as they deplete the corrosion protection package after some years and need to be flushed and re-filled to get it back.

 

Personally I just use VW G12+(+) coolant in my Elise as it's very easy to get here from various brands (not just VW) and it's a modern coolant with an OAT additive package that works well with aluminium parts.

 

The latest VW G13 type coolant is different though. Here (part) of the glycol in the coolant is replaced with more environmentally friendly glycerin. Some reports on car forums of problems with this type of coolant though when it comes to some hoses and waterpump seals and the like.

 

Pretty much all modern coolants will be fine. IMHO the most important is to select one that's readily available in your area from car part shops so you don't have to special order stuff like this if you work on your car.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

So yesterday started elctric wiring seriously and 2 electric buddies were visiting to help me get started and sort this out. It felt like it went pretty well actually, and we got most sorted out. But obviously there was some question marks that I hope someone kind can help me with.

First up, the charge harnes had 2 strange Connection ponts. What to do with these?, Will i be a fuse in between or is this an ELD circuit that you have to plug in or is it just to pull a screw and connect them?



Then there was a wire missing,i both Enigne harness conector and Engine harness but it is in the wiring diagram.
Engine Harness pin out 8 ALT-L, guess it's signal to chargin istrument light, but the wire is missing both on my engine harness and the connector. Is there no instrment carge light on the Civic Type R EP3?



Anyone knows where to bu Acura RSX wideband lamda connector plug?

BR, Per

Edited by Aerodynamic, 25 May 2014 - 04:43 PM.

[Arno]

The ELD connection is usually removed and the connection disconnected in most conversions and the ELD error/check can be disabled with either a K-pro or an ECU re-flash.

 

The ALT-L wire seems a bit hit and miss in the USA cars. It seems to be wired to ECU plug B pin 10 in several cases and not on the pin 8 of the C101 plug like the Hondata diagram shows.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

But I can more or less connect these two wires to Close the loop or does it need to be a fuse in between? http://i954.photobuc...zpsc0173c2e.jpg Ans Something like this to connect to the oxygen sensor. http://www.ebay.com/...b8fb688&vxp=mtr BR, Per

[Arno]

As far as I know you can connect these together, but personally I would just un-wrap the harness and remove this piece completely. It's just another connection that can potentially give problems later on.

 

It's probably more useful for you to adapt the harness for your car and get the +12V connection at the location you need instead of the original Civic one and try to work around that..

 

On my Elise with a K20A2 I un-wrapped the small charge-harness and completely removed the original (hacked-up) battery cables from the charge harness and only kept the (thin) wires for the alternator, knock sensor and starter motor solenoid in place.

 

I then put these wires in a new plastic protection tube and re-wrapped with tape it and ran two new 25mm2 power cables with crimped eyes on the end from the starter motor main power connection and the alternator output to the main 12V connection in the car.

 

Nice clean solution without a lot of intermediate interconnections that can fail later on.

 

As for the lambda sensor plug.. You will be using the RSX-S wideband sensor with a PRB ECU? I think the plug is the same as the narrowband sensor used on the european TypeR, but I'm not 100% sure.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Still no Dynamite, but the Project is still in progress.

So what have happend? I am working on different parts of the car.
First I have mounted my new shocks.


Does anyone have any idea for a pre setting on how much I should tension the spring? 1cm? Now the spring nut is touching the spring
no more no less.

I have done some work for ther front too. Repaired the radiator cover a bit. mounted the new radiator, front shocks, new brake lines AND, I hade to modify my airbox again because of the wiper mechanism.
This time I really thought about ordering a new one and stop modify parts and this time they said
it´s not retailed anymore, the LHD version so I simply had to modify it and live with it.



I have also seriously started with the electrical and have came quite far I would say, thanc to some friends.
My Electric buddies will join this weekend again so I have heigh hopes it will turn out in maybe trying to push the starter button.


Today my new brake pads arrived. After a thread on this forum about different brake pads.
These seemed to be the best bang for the bucks. Littlebit boring they are just black.
If you buy greenstuff they are green, right?


So had to go down and test mount them and the caliper onto my new bigger brake discs.
I really hope these 3 things will improve my brake feeling.


And for the Sharp Eye, caliper is painted in Honda (R-81) red.

Edited by Aerodynamic, 04 June 2014 - 08:04 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

 

When doing the Electric, can you use the chassie as a grounding point sinces it glues together but also pop riveted right?

 

 

A good ground will be found on the chassis beam on the left side. That's the point where the engine ground is connected in the engine bay and the battery is connected at the front.

 

Any other chassis part will not have a good ground as the aluminium parts are anodised and the parts are mostly bonded and the peel-protection rivets are also coated in glue during construction so continuity is not guaranteed.

 

IMHO the best method in these cars to get a good ground is to connect to the existing ground points on the chassis on the front or rear and run (thick) cables you need from there. Any other point will most likely have significant resistance/voltage drop.

 

Bye, Arno.

 

 

Do you have any Pictures showing these grounding Points?

 

Also we have been working on the wireing harness lately and we tryed to run the starter Engine last sunday

but nothing happend except for one Little black box under the dash clicked (immobilizor?)

 

Anyone have any idea?

 

BR, Per

[Arno]

They are easy to find..

 

On the rear in the engine bay on the left side there is an M8 bolt on the aluminium chassis beam that has a special stepped washer under it (this makes contact to the chassis where some of the anodisation has been removed) and this is where the original ground cable from the F23 gearbox would have been attached. I assume you will also have attached the main ground cable from the Honda engine or gearbox to this point?

 

Diagram looks like this:

 

 

The Honda ECU itself grounds on the M6 bolt that's on the middle of the intake manifold flange via the main engine harness (it has no external ground and the case should NOT be grounded). Sometimes people move this connection to one of the nuts that holds the valve cover on.

 

At the front there is a ground cable from the battery '-' to the same  chassis beam at the left side with the same special washer underneath. The heater may be in the way on an LHD car to access that though, but that should not matter in your case as most/all of the wiring would be done in the engine bay.

 

Whatever you do: keep the special stepped washer installed. The ground connection is NOT made through the rivnut, but via the stepped washer and the anodisation free contact surface around the rivnut on the chassis.

 

As to it not starting.. The Speedster normally does not have an external immobiliser. It's normally built into the original ECU and transponder key setup. The alarm normally only 'makes noise' but does nothing else.

 

Of course.. This varies per country and it may be that a different alarm system (one with cutout circuits for fuel pump and starter) was installed in your car at some time. Is this common/required in Sweden for insurance perhaps?

 

The starter button does interface with one of the relays normally in the back. I think it has some lockout to prevent the starter from working if the engine is running.

 

The normal Honda ECU does have an immobiliser if it it isn't bypassed with an external box or disabled with a K-pro. I don't think it stops the starter motor from turning though. It just stops fuel injection.

 

Bye, Arno.

Edited by Arno, 10 June 2014 - 07:55 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

And again, thank you very very much for your help Arno.

I don´t really have a Speedster, its a VX220 now LHD cnverted so I don´t know how it looks with immobilazor unit.

 

Tomorrow I will look at this again and continue working on it. I will check all grounding points and relay

it was really a long shot to try the starter sinc we were in a bit panic with my friends needed to travel home (100km trip).

I hope we are not to far away to get startr motor runnng and hopefully not the Honda Engine either.

 

BR, Per

 

[Aerodynamic]

I found the grounding Point with this special washer in the Engine bay. 

[Aerodynamic]

Seems like a old problem is back and I can not copy any links into this forum again and only this.

 

Trying to find out a littlebit more about the Electric system.

the 3 relays in the back Grey, Yellow and Brown, what are they?

 

And these connectors except for the big blue and black one, those I already know about.

 

 

BR, Per