984 replies to this topic

[Aerodynamic]

Thanx Bargi.

Today I got my new TPS sensor. Difference between the new and the old one.


I calibrated it and now it seems to work.

One thing tho when I turned my switch on was that I noticed my wiper wanted to go down on my front clam,
seems like the wiper motor is going to wrong direction.

BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Anyne having an idea how I fix so my wiper arm goes in the other direction? BR, Per

[Duncan VXR]

Anyne having an idea how I fix so my wiper arm goes in the other direction? BR, Per

Never looked at motor on vx tbh but does lhd / rhd go different ways? Does the arm need putting on opposite side? Beyond this depending on stepper motor or dc type its going to be position sensor or count on stepper motor got its nickers twisted. Battery off to recylcle count? May have a closer look if I get time and should be able to work out DG

[Aerodynamic]

Anyne having an idea how I fix so my wiper arm goes in the other direction? BR, Per

Never looked at motor on vx tbh but does lhd / rhd go different ways? Does the arm need putting on opposite side? Beyond this depending on stepper motor or dc type its going to be position sensor or count on stepper motor got its nickers twisted. Battery off to recylcle count? May have a closer look if I get time and should be able to work out DG

On the VX the arm is in rest position on the left side and on the Speedster it is resting on the right side. I have changed the wiper assembly but not the motor. BR, PEr

[Gilgamesh]

does it really matter what side the arm is resting on? 

[Aerodynamic]

does it really matter what side the arm is resting on?

I Believe so. If it is resting on the right side it better move to the left side first. and the opposit for the other side else is wil wipe of my front suspension. :-) BR, Per

[Ormes]

Have it in my mind that there are multiple spades on the motor for setting the position... am I talking sh1t?

[Arno]

On the VX the arm is in rest position on the left side and on the Speedster it is resting on the right side. I have changed the wiper assembly but not the motor.

 

 

Did you change the whole mechanism for an LHD version or just move the wiper arm to the other side?

 

If it's still the RHD wiper mechanism then you should be able to move the stop position by moving the spindle on the motor itself. (this can also be used to stop the wiper in the middle if you want..)

 

 

 

I don't think the motor is any different. It just spins and the crank and lever construction turns it into an oscillating motion on the output shaft.

 

The motor only has the switch built-in that it stops after a full rotation.

 

By moving the position of the lever on the motor shaft you can move/adjust the stop position of the wiper to any location in the sweep.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

I will look ath this Arno, thanks. The whole mechanism is changed to a LHD one. I never thought about calibration when I installed this. Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

So yesterday was D-day. I gave my Everything to take it out. And finally it was out.


But it wasnt without setbacks ofcourse. First when I took it down on the Wheels,I saw my right rear wanted to go left (pointing out to the right) did a very accurate toe adjustment using my Eyes asmeasuring device. When turning ignition on, my wiper was again trying to wipe of my entire front compartment. Then it didn´t start, because battery was low.

After 1 hour waiting,it finally started, yay. It was very dark by now but I wanted to try atleast a Little.
The throttle pedel was vry hard and my brake pedal was reacting when it was almost to the floor, Need to bleed it better. (any advice)? The exhaust was axtually more silent than expected, but want reving anything.

The shift linkage did actually have a very nice feeling, also the brake seems very good when they finally grip.

Need to fix the worst ad adjust theride height so I can do a Wheel alignment next week.

Over and out.
BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Was out and checked the rotation of the wiper pin. Its exaktly wrong rotation it goes left and then right and the stops. If it was half faulty. the it would have go left, the right and then left a littlebit Before it stops. Is it possible to change the rotation by just swapping the Cables to the Engine? Then I don´t have to take the Engine off wiper assebly since this looks like a real sh*t job. :-) Any idea? BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

The STACK in the Speedster has mostly normal discrete inputs (eg. rpm signal is simple pulse signal). Only the temperature readout is a pulse-width modulated signal that normally comes from the Opel ECU in the car and you would need to emulate that. Some schematics with a small PIC are floating around to do that.   Bye, Arno.

I´ve changed my mind. The Dash I have works fine to check Engine temp. But I belive the MOT will wonder why it´s blinkiung 99 degrees and a red angry light is flashing. I´d like to get a converter for the Honda signal to Opel dash Engine temp signal. Do you know Arno how to collect this information how to build one? BR, Per

[Arno]

Luckily the user 'Rotivator' on SELOC made such a converter when he installed a Rover MEMS3 ECU in his car which also lacks the function to drive the S2 Elise dash just like the Honda ECU.

 

Direct article is here: http://arc.seloc.org...ge=2#pid5242375

 

If you don't have access to SELOC I have attached the schematic with a picaxe controller to use an S1 Elise 'blue' temperature sensor as an input to generate the PWM signal for the dash readout.

 

A different NTC sensor could be used, you would just need to adapt/recalibrate the code to the reaction curve of the different sensor.

 

Can probably also be built with an arduino or similar if you want.

 

Edit: the schematic also includes a wheel speed VR signal converter. That's not needed on the Speedster as the ABS controller takes care of that for you (no ABS on the Elise..)

 

The code for the picaxe is as follows:

 

Code:;2/5/2011 Version 4 - fully working, installed into car ;30/5/2011 Version 5 - all temperatures lowered by 2 degrees C to fall in line with OBD data ;program to read analogue voltage from blue sensor on pin A.0 of a picaxe 28x2 module (AXE200) ;output is a variable duty cycle, 100Hz PWM waveform on pin C.2 to drive Elise S2 stack dash ;An external 816 Ohm resistor is wired between pin A.0 and +5V ref. to create a potential divider with the blue sensor setfreq m1 ;decrease picaxe base frequency to 1mHz (to allow PWMOUT at low frequency, 100Hz) adcsetup=1 ;setup ADC0 on pin A.0 gosub ADC2PWM ;fill scratch array with PWM lookup table pwmout pwmdiv16, C.2, 153,10 ;start the PWM output with a default duty cycle and using 16 divider to slow down clock ;pwmout pwmdiv16, C.2, x,y where:- ;x=frequency, 153 = 100Hz ;y=duty cycle, = x*4 main: w4=0 for b0=0 to 9 ;loop to average 10 samples readadc10 0,w3 ;read ADC0 (Pin A.0) into w3 word variable w4=w4+w3 next b0 w4=w4/10 b4=w4 MAX 160 ;limit values to calibration range get b4,b5 ;lookup PWM duty cycle from ADC value w5=b5*612/100 ;convert %PWM to picaxe duty cycle units pwmduty C.2,w5 ;set pwm duty cycle to calibrated pulse width goto main ;loop back to start ADC2PWM: ;data start ;put x,y where:- ;x=ADC counts (0=highest temp.,160=lowest temp.), ;y=%PWM ;the x value is limited to 160 in the program, up to 1024 values could be used in a 28x2 module put 0,99 put 1,99 put 2,99 put 3,99 put 4,99 put 5,99 put 6,99 put 7,99 put 8,99 put 9,99 put 10,99 put 11,99 put 12,99 put 13,99 put 14,99 put 15,99 put 16,99 put 17,99 put 18,99 put 19,99 put 20,97 put 21,94 put 22,92 put 23,90 put 24,88 put 25,86 put 26,84 put 27,82 put 28,81 put 29,79 put 30,77 put 31,76 put 32,74 put 33,73 put 34,71 put 35,70 put 36,69 put 37,67 put 38,66 put 39,65 put 40,64 put 41,62 put 42,61 put 43,60 put 44,59 put 45,58 put 46,57 put 47,56 put 48,55 put 49,54 put 50,53 put 51,52 put 52,51 put 53,50 put 54,49 put 55,48 put 56,48 put 57,47 put 58,46 put 59,45 put 60,44 put 61,43 put 62,43 put 63,42 put 64,41 put 65,40 put 66,40 put 67,39 put 68,38 put 69,38 put 70,37 put 71,36 put 72,36 put 73,35 put 74,34 put 75,34 put 76,33 put 77,32 put 78,32 put 79,31 put 80,31 put 81,30 put 82,29 put 83,29 put 84,28 put 85,28 put 86,27 put 87,27 put 88,26 put 89,25 put 90,25 put 91,24 put 92,24 put 93,23 put 94,23 put 95,22 put 96,22 put 97,21 put 98,21 put 99,20 put 100,20 put 101,19 put 102,19 put 103,19 put 104,18 put 105,18 put 106,17 put 107,17 put 108,16 put 109,16 put 110,15 put 111,15 put 112,15 put 113,14 put 114,14 put 115,13 put 116,13 put 117,12 put 118,12 put 119,12 put 120,11 put 121,11 put 122,10 put 123,10 put 124,10 put 125,9 put 126,9 put 127,9 put 128,8 put 129,8 put 130,7 put 131,7 put 132,7 put 133,6 put 134,6 put 135,6 put 136,5 put 137,5 put 138,5 put 139,4 put 140,4 put 141,4 put 142,3 put 143,3 put 144,3 put 145,2 put 146,2 put 147,2 put 148,1 put 149,1 put 150,1 put 151,0 put 152,0 put 153,0 put 154,0 put 155,0 put 156,0 put 157,0 put 158,0 put 159,0 put 160,0 return  

Bye, Arno.

 

Attached Files

•  schematic.jpg   33.84KB   7 downloads

Edited by Arno, 30 September 2014 - 08:54 PM.

[Exmantaa]

Luckily the user 'Rotivator' on SELOC made such a converter when he installed a Rover MEMS3 ECU in his car which also lacks the function to drive the S2 Elise dash just like the Honda ECU.

 

Direct article is here: http://arc.seloc.org...ge=2#pid5242375

 

 

 

We did something similar with a PICaxe to wire a B207 Saab engine with LSJ ecu to the STACK.

 

(Still need to poke Speedster4fun about my version of this converter, as everything is on his pc.)

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you Arno. I did have problem with the car and it was overheating. I tried ti bleed the cooling system without success. I red somwhere that lifting up the rear end was how it should be solved. I moved the car so the rear end was 10-20cm higher and started the Engine with cap of and it came bubbles and even more so when the termostat opened. Then I did a test drive and it seems to work. It feels very good. BR, Per

[Ormes]

Congratulations

 

VIDEO... VIDEO... VIDEO

Edited by Ormes, 01 October 2014 - 05:39 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

Congratulations   VIDEO... VIDEO... VIDEO

Thanx. And yes I will fix a video. :-)

[Aerodynamic]

Whats under here?

A Engine.


And here she is in Daylight.


And the reason beaing so stressed to get her out, except I want to drive is...


My new garage. :-)

So tomorrow I´m going to adjust the ride height. where is the measurement Points?

BR, Per

[Arno]

Measure from points 'B' (front height) and 'A' (rear height) on this diagram:

 

Basically the ends of the main structural alu chassis rail thaty runs from the front wheel and ends at the engine undertray. These are the only real fixed points on the car. Anything else like clams, undertrays, etc. are all too variable to be of use as measuting points.

 

Make sure to add 75Kg of weight in at least the driver's seat (if you usually drive alone) or also 75kg of weight in the passenger seat and 1/2 tank of fuel for the correct ride height. This should also be added when setting the wheel alignment.

 

You should have enough building material/concrete/sand around to use as ballast I guess

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Luckily the user 'Rotivator' on SELOC made such a converter when he installed a Rover MEMS3 ECU in his car which also lacks the function to drive the S2 Elise dash just like the Honda ECU.   Direct article is here: http://arc.seloc.org...ge=2#pid5242375   If you don't have access to SELOC I have attached the schematic with a picaxe controller to use an S1 Elise 'blue' temperature sensor as an input to generate the PWM signal for the dash readout.   A different NTC sensor could be used, you would just need to adapt/recalibrate the code to the reaction curve of the different sensor.   Can probably also be built with an arduino or similar if you want.   Edit: the schematic also includes a wheel speed VR signal converter. That's not needed on the Speedster as the ABS controller takes care of that for you (no ABS on the Elise..)   The code for the picaxe is as follows:   Code:;2/5/2011 Version 4 - fully working, installed into car ;30/5/2011 Version 5 - all temperatures lowered by 2 degrees C to fall in line with OBD data ;program to read analogue voltage from blue sensor on pin A.0 of a picaxe 28x2 module (AXE200) ;output is a variable duty cycle, 100Hz PWM waveform on pin C.2 to drive Elise S2 stack dash ;An external 816 Ohm resistor is wired between pin A.0 and +5V ref. to create a potential divider with the blue sensor setfreq m1 ;decrease picaxe base frequency to 1mHz (to allow PWMOUT at low frequency, 100Hz) adcsetup=1 ;setup ADC0 on pin A.0 gosub ADC2PWM ;fill scratch array with PWM lookup table pwmout pwmdiv16, C.2, 153,10 ;start the PWM output with a default duty cycle and using 16 divider to slow down clock ;pwmout pwmdiv16, C.2, x,y where:- ;x=frequency, 153 = 100Hz ;y=duty cycle, = x*4 main: w4=0 for b0=0 to 9 ;loop to average 10 samples readadc10 0,w3 ;read ADC0 (Pin A.0) into w3 word variable w4=w4+w3 next b0 w4=w4/10 b4=w4 MAX 160 ;limit values to calibration range get b4,b5 ;lookup PWM duty cycle from ADC value w5=b5*612/100 ;convert %PWM to picaxe duty cycle units pwmduty C.2,w5 ;set pwm duty cycle to calibrated pulse width goto main ;loop back to start ADC2PWM: ;data start ;put x,y where:- ;x=ADC counts (0=highest temp.,160=lowest temp.), ;y=%PWM ;the x value is limited to 160 in the program, up to 1024 values could be used in a 28x2 module   Bye, Arno.

Hi Arno, I have a collegue who will help me with this. This is taking signal directly from the sensor then? And not from the Honda ECU? What does NTC sensor means? Is any type of coolant sensor ok?