984 replies to this topic

[Exmantaa]

The coolant sensor is normally a 2-wire NTC sensor. For this circuit you will need a ground wire, a 5 or 12v supply, the 2 wires to the ntc resistor and 1 output signal wire to the stack dash.

[Arno]

 

Hi Arno, I have a collegue who will help me with this. This is taking signal directly from the sensor then? And not from the Honda ECU? What does NTC sensor means? Is any type of coolant sensor ok?

 

 

NTC == Negative Temperature Coeficent

 

Many coolant temperature sensors are based on this principle where the resistance of the sensor decreases as the temperature increases. Often it's close to a linear relationship (xx ohm per degree C) over a certain operating range (eg. 40 - 150C)

 

The circuit was designed to use one of these as the temperature sensor: http://www.rimmerbro...em--i-YCB100420

(S1 Elise/Rover sensor)

 

But I suspect a coolant temperature sensor from a Volvo or something similar could be made to work with the circuit too. You will need to adapt/calibrate the tables in the code to match the temperature response graph from such a different sensor though.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

put 0,99 put 1,99 put 2,99 put 3,99 put 4,99 put 5,99 put 6,99 put 7,99 put 8,99 put 9,99 put 10,99 put 11,99 put 12,99 put 13,99 put 14,99 put 15,99 put 16,99 put 17,99 put 18,99 put 19,99 put 20,97 put 21,94 put 22,92 put 23,90 put 24,88 put 25,86 put 26,84 put 27,82 put 28,81 put 29,79 put 30,77 put 31,76 put 32,74 put 33,73 put 34,71 put 35,70 put 36,69 put 37,67 put 38,66 put 39,65 put 40,64 put 41,62 put 42,61 put 43,60 put 44,59 put 45,58 put 46,57 put 47,56 put 48,55 put 49,54 put 50,53 put 51,52 put 52,51 put 53,50 put 54,49 put 55,48 put 56,48 put 57,47 put 58,46 put 59,45 put 60,44 put 61,43 put 62,43 put 63,42 put 64,41 put 65,40 put 66,40 put 67,39 put 68,38 put 69,38 put 70,37 put 71,36 put 72,36 put 73,35 put 74,34 put 75,34 put 76,33 put 77,32 put 78,32 put 79,31 put 80,31 put 81,30 put 82,29 put 83,29 put 84,28 put 85,28 put 86,27 put 87,27 put 88,26 put 89,25 put 90,25 put 91,24 put 92,24 put 93,23 put 94,23 put 95,22 put 96,22 put 97,21 put 98,21 put 99,20 put 100,20 put 101,19 put 102,19 put 103,19 put 104,18 put 105,18 put 106,17 put 107,17 put 108,16 put 109,16 put 110,15 put 111,15 put 112,15 put 113,14 put 114,14 put 115,13 put 116,13 put 117,12 put 118,12 put 119,12 put 120,11 put 121,11 put 122,10 put 123,10 put 124,10 put 125,9 put 126,9 put 127,9 put 128,8 put 129,8 put 130,7 put 131,7 put 132,7 put 133,6 put 134,6 put 135,6 put 136,5 put 137,5 put 138,5 put 139,4 put 140,4 put 141,4 put 142,3 put 143,3 put 144,3 put 145,2 put 146,2 put 147,2 put 148,1 put 149,1 put 150,1 put 151,0 put 152,0 put 153,0 put 154,0 put 155,0 put 156,0 put 157,0 put 158,0 put 159,0 put 160,0 return   Bye, Arno.

Does this mean that 99 deg is the maximum shown temp? and 0 the lowest? About the temperature sensor you linked too, I found out yesterday that my friend who sels VAG parts offer the same sensor and also offers connectors to them. He have both with M12 and M10 thread and different ohm ranges. Example 6600 ohm at 15 °C 2725 ohm at 42 °C 480 ohm at 90 °C or 2900 ohm at 15 °C 770 ohm at 46 °C 205 ohm at 90 °C He have some it between this range too. Anyone have any idea which is most like the on you showed? Br, Per

[siztenboots]

or its from 0-100% , and this is 0° to 160°

[Arno]

The Rover blue sensor should have a resistance of: 100C - 75ohms, 0C - 2250ohms. So the second one you listed is closest and should already give reasonable values with the existing code and the voltage-dividing resistor in the circuit.

 

Temperature range calibration is indeed 0°C to 160°C in the code for the picaxe. It varies the pulse-width between 0-100% as this is how the dash wants to receive the signal (100Hz pulse-width modulated signal)

 

You can always test/calibrate the circuit for a different sensor by wiring it up and putting it in a cup of water with a thermometer and then slowly heat up the water and check the values and (if needed) correct the table in the code.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

thank you so very much for all help Arno. Yes calibrating the snesor by dipping it in water is a good way. Or I calibrate it to the display showing the Honda sensor. Thank you, BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

The Rover blue sensor should have a resistance of: 100C - 75ohms, 0C - 2250ohms. So the second one you listed is closest and should already give reasonable values with the existing code and the voltage-dividing resistor in the circuit.

So the sensor you linked to earlier have this ohm range of 100C - 75ohms, 0C - 2250ohms? I´ve also started to plan next year a littlebit and needs some help. I want to ejoy next year as much as possible since I lost several years of track Days. So I want to save money so I can have them to use the car, but I want to try to Think long term so for example if I supercharge to 2016 I Believe it would be good to have aLSD or something similar. So I have turned a roll Cage and new seat down for only gettin harness bar and 4 Point belt. DO I need a LSD? how will the car behave with and without it? Either I take my current Wheel and ut some 595RSR tires on them and a quaif differetial brake. Or I buy new Wheels with new Kumho V70 tires and skip the quaife. Or 595rsr and a 4 channel ABS maybe? What time differens is expected between medium kumho V70s and 595rsr same sizes around a 1 minute lap? Other plans is to finish what I haven´t ended. New mirrors and steering Wheel. Diffuser and rear wing. Maybe some new bushings, and just make sure I´ll be out whn the snow is gone. BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

It´s about time. Last sunday I took it out for spin. I wanned to engage VTEC and VTC o see it works properly. It´s better it brakes down now than in 2015 and I know alls parts of the Engine have been flushed trhough with fresh oil. I will plug in the computer soon and just x check so I got no error codes. Anyway it felt rocket fast and I´m really happy about the sound, I was really afraid it Wold be to noisy with 3" full flow exhaust. Thanx, Per

[Acidpopstar]

So good to see it in action. All the best with it!

[Nev]

Excellent excellent news, great to see it moving at last. You must feel full of pride after such achieving such a fundamental and huge project Post some more videos and pics

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you. I will also check for error codes, but it felt like everything was working 100% Engine wise. Anyone having an idea what would give the most front end grip, same tires ofcourse. 215/45 16 on 7*16 Wheels or 215/40 17 on 7.5*17" Wheels? Br, Per

[speedster]

Fantastic

[Ormes]

Congratulations

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you everyone. Anyone haveing any idea what to do next? what is the most cost effective modification for a fast track car from here? BR, Per

[Bargi]

Not sure if mentioned previously or you've changed them but

- Uprated Toe Links

- Hub Carrier bolts

- Driver training!

 

[Nev]

Thank you everyone. Anyone haveing any idea what to do next? what is the most cost effective modification for a fast track car from here? BR, Per

DIY geo, taking several weeks to adjust settings so you understand the effect of each change. It will cost you £0.00 and you may have a lot to gain (depending on how it is setup at the moment and what type of roads/track you drive on). What coilovers + springs (+spring rates) do you have ATM ?

[Aerodynamic]

At the moment I have GAZ monos half year old with 425 F and 550 R. I have 308mm rotors in front with new Minte 1155 front and rear. Uprated hub bolts and uprated rear toe kit I do have. I have 17" Wheels and I Think I will got for 595 RSR tires on them.¨ The Wheels are a bit Heavy tho but I Think I have to live with it. What about harness bar and 4 Point belt? Also considering Traction Control, a bar between toe links and new bushes. Driver training is also included planning for 3 or 4 times go karting between Januari and April.

[Nev]

As you live in a relatively cold country (Sweeden isn't it?) I would select a soft compound rubber for your tyres BTW. The Khumo V70 at the softest I've ever had, super dooper grip but don't last very long at all. How much power is that engine making by the way? 240 BHP? Looks like it accelerates nicely.

Edited by Nev, 10 November 2014 - 07:10 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

Yes Sweden it is. I Think I will go for the 595 RSR tires first and buy new TDs with Khumo V70 on it. I don´t knowq buy now how much bhp the engin have. Somewhere between 240 and 275bhp probably, a friend got 235 whp with this engine map and similar Engine. But I will go and map it this spring. What do you Think about 4-point belt and harness bar? Have anyone made his own harness bar? Or where to get one? Any idea to change to new OE bushes? BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Not much of an update, but more pictures was requested.
I bought this cover to protect her during the cold weather winter time.
She is resting.


And she is out in the cold because I´m building her a new room, a garage twice as big as the old one (behind the red door).
I´m working my as of to get it sealed asap, windows got installed yesterday, Next week the garage door should arrive and some more covering of the roof.


Soon I will warm her up again.

BR, Per