984 replies to this topic

[Crabash]

LSD wont stop you losing the back end, it will give you a potential advantage on corner exit.

I had a discussion with Mike one day at Croft about them and came to the conclusion I don't need one, my traction is very good, I feel that losing traction with an LSD may be more dangerous on the road and on the track I'm not chasing 1/10th's. I'm happy with the way it is, it gains full traction in dry and warm conditions from 2nd gear up provided you don't just slam your foot on the floor, a smooth application of the throttle makes it squat and "dig in".

Edited by Crabash, 14 December 2014 - 08:28 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

Earlier today Iorderedthe blu Rover/Lotus coolant sensor and now I´m looking for the necessary parts for conttrling the data.

I need to prepair and let parts drop in while I am doing the Construction work.

 

I have found the picaxe 28x2 I also need to find the module Dual VR 2.0.

 

Then I need to plasce all componens on a board or somthing,anyone have any idea for a simple solution here?

How do I program the picaxe with code, is there and USB solution that I could use?

 

Thanx, Per

 

 

Luckily the user 'Rotivator' on SELOC made such a converter when he installed a Rover MEMS3 ECU in his car which also lacks the function to drive the S2 Elise dash just like the Honda ECU.

 

Direct article is here: http://arc.seloc.org...ge=2#pid5242375

 

If you don't have access to SELOC I have attached the schematic with a picaxe controller to use an S1 Elise 'blue' temperature sensor as an input to generate the PWM signal for the dash readout.

 

A different NTC sensor could be used, you would just need to adapt/recalibrate the code to the reaction curve of the different sensor.

 

Can probably also be built with an arduino or similar if you want.

 

Edit: the schematic also includes a wheel speed VR signal converter. That's not needed on the Speedster as the ABS controller takes care of that for you (no ABS on the Elise..)

 

The code for the picaxe is as follows:

 

Code:;2/5/2011 Version 4 - fully working, installed into car ;30/5/2011 Version 5 - all temperatures lowered by 2 degrees C to fall in line with OBD data ;program to read analogue voltage from blue sensor on pin A.0 of a picaxe 28x2 module (AXE200) ;output is a variable duty cycle, 100Hz PWM waveform on pin C.2 to drive Elise S2 stack dash ;An external 816 Ohm resistor is wired between pin A.0 and +5V ref. to create a potential divider with the blue sensor setfreq m1 ;decrease picaxe base frequency to 1mHz (to allow PWMOUT at low frequency, 100Hz) adcsetup=1 ;setup ADC0 on pin A.0 gosub ADC2PWM ;fill scratch array with PWM lookup table pwmout pwmdiv16, C.2, 153,10 ;start the PWM output with a default duty cycle and using 16 divider to slow down clock ;pwmout pwmdiv16, C.2, x,y where:- ;x=frequency, 153 = 100Hz ;y=duty cycle, = x*4 main: w4=0 for b0=0 to 9 ;loop to average 10 samples readadc10 0,w3 ;read ADC0 (Pin A.0) into w3 word variable w4=w4+w3 next b0 w4=w4/10 b4=w4 MAX 160 ;limit values to calibration range get b4,b5 ;lookup PWM duty cycle from ADC value w5=b5*612/100 ;convert %PWM to picaxe duty cycle units pwmduty C.2,w5 ;set pwm duty cycle to calibrated pulse width goto main ;loop back to start ADC2PWM: ;data start ;put x,y where:- ;x=ADC counts (0=highest temp.,160=lowest temp.), ;y=%PWM ;the x value is limited to 160 in the program, up to 1024 values could be used in a 28x2 module put 0,99 put 1,99 put 2,99 return  

Bye, Arno.

 

 

[Arno]

You could do the programming interface as part of your circuit board:

 

http://www.picaxe.co...ge-fit,-550,842

 

or use a shield module as the circuit board with the interfacing on-board:

 

http://www.picaxe.com/docs/axe401.pdf

 

The shield module provides the correct power setup and programming interface and can be used (in a small box) as it brings out most of the PicAXE pins to the outside to interface to. You can mount a secondary empty/holes PCB on top (see second PDF) and use that for the various wiring connections and also perhaps to mount the VR module. Put it all in a small plastic splash/waterproof box and it should be good to go!

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

You could do the programming interface as part of your circuit board:

 

http://www.picaxe.co...ge-fit,-550,842

 

or use a shield module as the circuit board with the interfacing on-board:

 

http://www.picaxe.com/docs/axe401.pdf

 

The shield module provides the correct power setup and programming interface and can be used (in a small box) as it brings out most of the PicAXE pins to the outside to interface to. You can mount a secondary empty/holes PCB on top (see second PDF) and use that for the various wiring connections and also perhaps to mount the VR module. Put it all in a small plastic splash/waterproof box and it should be good to go!

 

Bye, Arno.

 

Thank you Arno, I will disscuss this with my Electric buddy and  eewhat  he says about it.

And the VR module is only for speed? and this is working so I don´t think I need it.

 

BR, Per

[Arno]

Yup.. The VR module is for the speed signal. On the Speedster you have the ABS system that does the job so you don't need that part. On the S2 Elise without ABS it's integrated into the original ECU and needs to be externally processed with the Honda installed.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Yup.. The VR module is for the speed signal. On the Speedster you have the ABS system that does the job so you don't need that part. On the S2 Elise without ABS it's integrated into the original ECU and needs to be externally processed with the Honda installed.

 

Bye, Arno.

 

Hi Arno, do you know  if it is possible to use a Ardiono mini orNano instead?

I can get these very easy and know someone who can program them.

 

BR, Per

[Arno]

I suspect a different microcontroller platform should not be a very big issue. The items that it needs to support will have to be:

 

• At least 1 analogue input that can be sampled for the sensor input
• At least 1 output that can be controlled/programmed to send a PWM signal to the STACK

 

All the microcontroller does is take the measured resistance (or voltage more likely) from a temperature sensor, look up the corresponding time-base and then output a PWM signal for that value that can be interpreted by the STACK to display the temperature.

 

Both ends can be developed separately. The output stage can be tested/simulated/debugged by sending various PWM signal stages to the STACK so you can have it display the number you want (STACK will usually display between 72 - 120C). Once that works correctly then the input stage can be built to read a temperature sensor.

 

You're of course free to choose any sensor you like as long as it has a range of at least between 50-150C.

 

Usually it's easiest to choose a sensor that interfaces to your microcontroller in the most simple or common way. No need to invent the wheel again

 

Do make sure it's a sensor that can withstand being in a harsh environment like an engine compartiment though.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

So it was about 2 months ago since I wrote here but I havent touched my car for the last 5 months because of house Project.

Now I have about  month to finish the car for 2015 season before continue with the house Project till my new born wh will come in end of may.

Anyway during my house Project I had to buy myself a ittle toy.

 

But it seems likethisforum don´t want me to post any Pictures. since I cannot pastea link. Why?

 

Anyway. A list of what is planned atleast in the beginning, the rest Ihave to fix later on.

 

1. coolant leakage

2. Wiper arm rest position

3. Dash and panel.

4. Bracebar

5. Fix trottle pedal

6. Diffuser

7. Engine map

8. Wheel allignment

9. Rear wing

10. Hardtop

11. Fix OEM temp dash

 

And a lot more. The rest I have to fix in the future after the baby is born.

 

Bye, Per

 

 

 

 

[Aerodynamic]

I make a seond try now with Google crome installed.

 

So I bought a new toy.

http://i954.photobuc...zpsortglptf.jpg

 

It was a bit damaged so I got it cheap and he dind´t have another one.

 

I also need better tyres for my kind of use, The idea that sounded very logical when the decision was made was if they don´t fit, make them fit.

 

<a href="http://s954.photobuc...bnwrng.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae25/Axblom/wide_tire_2_zpsoebnwrng.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo wide_tire_2_zpsoebnwrng.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s954.photobuc...uxgdhf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae25/Axblom/wide_tire_zpsxkuxgdhf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo wide_tire_zpsxkuxgdhf.jpg"/></a>

 

Now in between panic, and fixing the house before the baby arrives, I´m not so sure this was such a good idea.

This with a spacergiving a ET of 28.5mm.

<a href="http://s954.photobuc...fjuqrx.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae25/Axblom/Tire_fender_zps1hfjuqrx.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Tire_fender_zps1hfjuqrx.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s954.photobuc...hlynjz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae25/Axblom/Tire_side_zpscdhlynjz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Tire_side_zpscdhlynjz.jpg"/></a>

 

BR, Per

 

[Arno]

The wheel should get some more camber as it moves up in the suspension travel so it might still work OK.

 

You could take off the shock absorber and then fit the wheel and tyre and move it up and down to see if it will clear the edge of the clam or not.

 

Perhaps increasing the (static) negative camber at the back by removing some shims will be enough if it's close.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Does anyone knows how to edit your posts? Do you have to be a paying member?

 

Can anyone see the pictures? Except Arno.

 

The thing is I seems to have a lot of camber already.

I will try with a 20mm spacer instead and ETwill be 33.5mm.

I haven´t solved what to do with my parking brake wire. Anyone having a nice solution?

as it seems to come close to my inner wheel.

 

Br, Per

 

[OneYet]

Hi Per!

You edit your posts by clicking on the "Edit" button in the down right corner of the post. 

No, I cannot see any pictures in your post but there are some clickable links to photobucket and through them I can see your tires. 

I have 235:s and they are a very tight fit. 255 must be even tighter. Maybe manageble. Try to search both here and on the German forum I would say. 

[Aerodynamic]

Hi Per!

You edit your posts by clicking on the "Edit" button in the down right corner of the post. 

No, I cannot see any pictures in your post but there are some clickable links to photobucket and through them I can see your tires. 

I have 235:s and they are a very tight fit. 255 must be even tighter. Maybe manageble. Try to search both here and on the German forum I would say. 

 

Are you a paying member? I cannt see any edit post button.

 

BR, Per

[The Batman]

Hey! Sorry for not trawling through your whole project thread I saw the first few posts mentioning the k24 can't Rev that high, is this due to a specific part restricting it or something else? I am looking at building a highly tuned NA k20 and was thinking about increasing engine capacity What intake are you going to use? Sc?

[Nev]

I am looking at building a highly tuned NA k20 and was thinking about increasing engine capacity  

 

For Gawds sake at least drive it 5000 miles before you mod (read "break") it ! LOL.

 

With Spring and summer around the corner might it better to leave mods for the winter ?  

Edited by Nev, 08 March 2015 - 06:52 PM.

[The Batman]

It will be left for the summer, I will build another engine whilst using the lotus and then an engine swap over winter K20 tuning parts are a lot more expensive than z22se parts

[Aerodynamic]

Hey! Sorry for not trawling through your whole project thread I saw the first few posts mentioning the k24 can't Rev that high, is this due to a specific part restricting it or something else? I am looking at building a highly tuned NA k20 and was thinking about increasing engine capacity What intake are you going to use? Sc?

 

The K24 is not a high reving Engine because of the 99mm stroke. K20 have around 85mm stroke. It´s also a question of durablity and how you are going to use the Engine. For street use and revihigh from time to time I Believe you can have the rev limiter above 8500. If you have a good built Engine and goingto use it for track use I shuld stay below 8500. Myself is currenly running OEM valve springs from the K24 head and there for going to stay at 8000rpm. I will  for now use a RBC intake manifold.

I have thought about SC but am also considiering to rebuild the Engine for a good NA and around 350 bhp without pushing to hard would be possible. for a K24

 

BR, Per

 

 

[Aerodynamic]

Anyone knows where to buy Touch up paint for a Silver VX220? And what is the paint code for it?

 

Br, Per

[Nev]

It will be left for the summer, I will build another engine whilst using the lotus and then an engine swap over winter

 

Phew!

 

Sounds like a good plan, remember "power isn't everything" (at least that what I've been told a 1000 times!). LOL  

[The Batman]

Power isn't everything (You can never have enough Na power!)