984 replies to this topic

[Aerodynamic]

So today I passet sedish MOT almost. Need to re test it when I fixen the airbag lamp. Couldnt get my USB port to work on my laptop Yesterday. Well my biggest problem is that my taco meter is jumping up and down like a nervouse kangeroo. I dont know if it got worse after connecting my omex shiftlight which is not calibrate yet. Anyone having any idea.

[Bargi]

Try a Stack reset, might fix it.

[Aerodynamic]

Try a Stack reset, might fix it.

 

How?

[Bargi]

Try a Stack reset, might fix it.

  How?

http://www.vx220.org...ack-dash-reset/

[Aerodynamic]

So a lot of things have happend lately.

I have got my car out and done a wheel alignment,twice. The guys at the tire shop  didn´t  seem to know

what they are doing, didnt knw if they were measuring in degrees or minutes. And dind´t take care about the car 

doesn´t go back to the right ride height after it been jacked.

 

I seem to recall it's 1mm camber shim is 0.25 degree front and 0.30 degree on the back

 

Anyway I get this to around 1mm in front gives around 0.167 deg (10 minutes) for 1mm

and for rear it seams to give about the same or maybe little less. strange.

 

Now I have a little less then 1.5 deg front negative camber and a bit more then 2.5 negative camber in the rear.

A bit more difference then I wanted but a good start. with my rear tires and 550 425spring setup

I went last sunday to the airfield for some cone driving thought that I would have a car with some understeering.

What I did feel was a car with unstable rear end during off throttle and braking and turning the sametime.

I feel that with a more stable rear end I would have gone a lot faster since I had so much grip in the front.

 

Tyre pressure front and rear cold 1.7 bar 215 feds in front and 255 rear (should I have less pressure with bigger tires?)

I am having 4 from softest setting on my Gaz monos both front and rear

std ARB.

Or is a wing needed? Speed was quite low.

 

But I had  great day with some driving and talking to ppl with the same hobby.

I did twice 180s.   :-)

Race proven

 

The feeling besides a loose rearend was that I missed the brake points with 3 meters like every time.

It felt like I nailed it but then the car just passed the cone, it felt like it loosend the brakes

this must be what everytone is talkking about the 2 channel ABS system?

 

I´m at the  moment sing my OEM steering wheel and would still really like to have power steering

but with my quick steering rack and when I  get my slightly bigger sparcu steering wheel in

I hope to improve my steering feeling some.

 

I reseted my tacho from Bargis recommendation and my tacho gota lot better

thanks Bargi.

But it isnt still good enught at high RPMs the pointer is still jumping up and down quite a lot.

 

I also got my command over my tunerview finally so I could see AFR values and duty cycle.

A very good multi dash, a bit hard to navigate tho, but the options in there are incredible.

 

Is it ok for a type 116 to hav one of these?

http://elise-shop.co...r-p-348096.html

 

Am looking to go to next track day on sunday, not decided yet.

 

Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Arno or Vocky, you don´t have any idea what going on with my tacho?

 

Anyone else have any idea whats going on with my rear end (on my car)

How will a stronger front ARB change the cars behaviour?

 

Is this ok to have on our cars? http://elise-shop.co...r-p-348096.html

 

Br, Per

Edited by Aerodynamic, 09 July 2015 - 04:14 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

Anyone knows ho high OEM tachometer can show?

My scale is going to 8500 but is the hardware capable of this or how high?

 

How do you guys with higher rev limit solve this?

 

Br, Per

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I use a shift light Or I will when I fit it lol

[The Batman]

Vocky and crazyfrog (thanks to Vocky) have modified their stacks using lotus rev counter and bodged em together

Edited by The Batman, 17 July 2015 - 02:44 AM.

[Nev]

In regards to your question of lower tyre pressures for bigger tyres, I have come to this conclusion myself too. I have Fed 595RSRs as well, an now I start them with about 23 PSI (cold). I find the grip better and also as I have quite small sidewalls the sidewalls flex a bit more over bumps I think. This is good in my particular setup as I have slightly too strong springs than I want (450f/600r) for the roads I drive on.

Edited by Nev, 17 July 2015 - 09:10 AM.

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you Bat and Nev.

Lets hope Vocky have some info left of how to rebuild the tachometer. a Project for the Winter it seems.

 

23 PSI Cold was a bit more then I thought about, I was thinking more about 20 PSI but this could be different compared

to real R- tires like Toyo R888 maybe.

 

Br, Per

[Nev]

Ha, now you have me wondering, maybe I should try 20 PSI cold !

[Jason]

If Nev is driving on the road he won't heat the tyres as much as you on track. If you guys want to compare your better comparing Hot. Probably comparable running pressure given your starting points.

[Aerodynamic]

I thought Nev ment track driving?! I have some thing around 28 psi in front and 30 psi rear for everyday use. Maybe I should go to same from and rear.

[Aerodynamic]

Time for some updates. about 15month ago I bought my GAZ mono suspension and they look and feel nice, (don´t have so much to compare with) But when I started to set the ride height I wanted I couldn´t get it as low in the front as I wanted.

So I ordered the tiniest helper springs I could, they wereso tiny I had to modifie both lower shock sprng seat and helper spring seat.

Helper spring is compressed 6mm.

 

Faulkner spring and machined helper spring seat

 

Unmodified GAZ lower spring seat

and modifies with angled grinder.

 

Everything went well putting everything on the car and I lowere it about  7mm on the shock to 10 about 1cm lower on the wheel.

Didn´t care about measuring on the wheel to much because I was stressed and the car was on a road and uneven surface anyway.

But I had measure a few times before , between wheel and wheel arc and got 5-7mm difference and have always thought it was because of  uneven surface but then I went pass these LHD upper shock mounts, Got an extra set since I got wrong.

But the RHD looks the same but mirrored. I don´t have the std upper mounts anymore to compare with.

But I remember this (see picture) from when I mounted the shocks about 15 months ago but forgott about it since 

but now I saw it again.

The upper mount without ABS points (right in picture) have doubble points (adjustable) but neither upper or lower position will

give the same height on the holes where the shock bolt is  going through. The upper will be 5mm to heigh compared to other side and the other will be around 5mm lower or more. I haven´t looked at this on the car till now, maybe it could be compensated on the car from factory? For me it looks very strange making this different between left and right side on the speedster?!

 

So on tuesday I will lift upp the car and take some measuring points from where the shock is bolt axel is to a reference point (any ides?)

So have anyone else then me scratch there heads about this? I could adjust the ride height on the shock but then I would get different travel on right and left frond shock and Idon´t like this.

 

Br, Per

[Captain Vimes]

I thought Nev ment track driving?! I have some thing around 28 psi in front and 30 psi rear for everyday use. Maybe I should go to same from and rear.

28/30 hot is what I aim for on track. No idea what the cold pressure's would be but probably low 20's.

[Aerodynamic]

I have some slight coolant leaking and I Think it´s comming from the lower end of the hoose on either side under the radiator.

Anyone know how I could get to these hoose clamps in easiest possible way?

Can I avoid taking the front clam ff I´m happy.

 

Br, Per

Edited by Aerodynamic, 29 July 2015 - 01:20 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

through the wheel arch or if your lucky behind head light

[Aerodynamic]

Finally I have been to a track day, after 5-6 year of waiting

and this with my Speedster.

 

Before I went out I set my front shocks to 15 click out of 16 (16 hardest)

and my rears to 4 out of 16.

I didn´t want to experience a heavy oversteering rear wheel drive car when I for the first time

go out on a tight circuit with it beeing used to front wheeel drive cars.

 

At first I felt really comfortable, car feeling very stable but then I was driving slowly

trying to learn the circuit againand adapt to the car.

When I started to get some speed up I started to feel the understeering comming to me and I got from

15 to 14 clicks in the front and felt I got less understeering.

 

My precious

 

I feel that where I need to improve the cars rear end grip in some way. BecauseI feel I can turn on more front 

end grip if  I want to with softer setting and more camber in front since I´m around 1.5 deg in front camber.

 

Rear on the other hand I´m alreasy have around 2.6 deg and 1.5mm toe in, I think that is pretty much maximum

for a daily driver in camber settings or what do you think? 

 

During the winter I will hopefully install a rollcage andwork on some aerodynamics.

But does anyone have any idea how to improve mecanical grip, specially in the rears?

 

Will a thicker ARB and a suspension refresh help for more mechanical grip in the rears?

New rear knuckles. I will of course try to spend my money on more grippier tires

but I need more balance with improved rear end grip.

Help me out here

 

 

I have the height set on 110mm front and 120mm on rear.

 

Also when I started to push a bit more I suddenly lost a few meters in braking, so again I felt how the ABS system

loosend. So  a 4 channel ABS system is on the wish list.

Away from that my brakes worked brilliant, even if I have made new brake lines and taken apart everything

and have not done any special bleeding procedure.

 

I was told that OEM seats are fine for track days, but really half ofthe energy driving  was to sit still

also it took a few days for my back to recover.

So can anyone recommend a good seat that will work with a adjustable seat rail, daily use and is not to pricy.

 

A change to my slightly bigger Sparc steering wheel will hopefully improve my steering feed back. 

 

Bonus picture of some other cars from the trackday.

 

Br, Per

 

 

 

[sford]

With regards to the seat, I would suggest a harness. I too found I moved around a lot on the leather but after fitting the harness the only thing moving around on track is my knees. To the point that I know I've had a good day as I get a bruise on them! I have retained my normal seatbelt for road driving and found it easy to get along with.