984 replies to this topic

[Mangham54]

That's how I envisaged my garage... but at the moment it still just looks like a shitty concrete pre-fab shithole.

[Aerodynamic]

coud this be the reason for my bouncing tacho meter

and the reason why my battery uncharge itself?

 

Br, Per

 

 

When doing the Electric, can you use the chassie as a grounding point sinces it glues together but also pop riveted right?

 

 

A good ground will be found on the chassis beam on the left side. That's the point where the engine ground is connected in the engine bay and the battery is connected at the front.

 

Any other chassis part will not have a good ground as the aluminium parts are anodised and the parts are mostly bonded and the peel-protection rivets are also coated in glue during construction so continuity is not guaranteed.

 

IMHO the best method in these cars to get a good ground is to connect to the existing ground points on the chassis on the front or rear and run (thick) cables you need from there. Any other point will most likely have significant resistance/voltage drop.

 

Bye, Arno.

 

 

[Aerodynamic]

Plans for next year are beeing processed in my head.

One of them is modifying my oil pump and pan so I can lower my engine specialy in front

so going to try tilting the engine forward slightly.

 

I found a Picture online of a modified pump.

Anyone done something similar?

 

 

Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

So since I had battery problem during this summer and a broken battery.

I yesterday measured the amphere over mmy fuse box. I measure 0.08A over the yellow fuse for the stereo.

and 0.14A over the brown fuse, F8, that feed Imobilizor Alarm, ECU and instrument.

But what is realy the main reason for this uncharging? Can it be solveable?

 

Idea is to have a main battery switch in my car.

Or having a service charger when not using the car for a few days or more.

If I disconnect the battery I have understood my ecu looses some settings for  idle control etc.

 

 

 

Br, Per

[The Batman]

How's the k24 running? Done many mods to it Any plans for future? K20 head?

[Aerodynamic]

How's the k24 running? Done many mods to it Any plans for future? K20 head?

Hi the K24 is running fine. Havent touched it and probably wont untill it is SFRO registret in sweden. The idea is to supercharger it during next winter, but we see, maybe I stay with NA tuning. I will decided in a year from now. This winter is more to work on many small detailed on the rest of the car. Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Lotus Elise uses the same fixings http://www.deroure.c...&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

 

 

Trying to get to use my hardtop this summer.

And need some help with what I really need.

 

16 I guess I must have, but 23 is a Elise unique part?

 

Do I need 4, 5, 3, 33, 10, 18.

 

33 must be 28 in the list?

 

PLease help me out here.

 

Br, Per

[OneYet]

 

Lotus Elise uses the same fixings http://www.deroure.c...&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

 

 

Trying to get to use my hardtop this summer.

And need some help with what I really need.

 

16 I guess I must have, but 23 is a Elise unique part?

 

Do I need 4, 5, 3, 33, 10, 18.

 

33 must be 28 in the list?

 

PLease help me out here.

 

Br, Per

 

16. Must have. Not hard to fabricate yourself. 

23. Never seen it. 

3,4,5. Made something up myself. 

33. Not sure. 

10,11 are just covers. 

18 is cruisal. It bolts to 17 wich is riveted to the HT. But you can make something yourself. 

Edited by OneYet, 10 December 2015 - 06:07 AM.

[vocky]

it depends which hardtop you have, a used genuine hardtop most likely still has all the seals attached, but an aftermarket item will need some sort of seal to keep the weather out.

 

You only really need 16, 17 and 18 to fix the hardtop to the car, plus the screws and washers 14 + 22, 19 + 20 - but you could use ordinary screws and washers if you wish.

[Aerodynamic]

Which seals must I have? Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

I have figured out what I need for my hardtop. But is there anyone knowing whats is consuming so much power? Does all VXS do this?

Br, Per

So since I had battery problem during this summer and a broken battery.
I yesterday measured the amphere over mmy fuse box. I measure 0.08A over the yellow fuse for the stereo.
and 0.14A over the brown fuse, F8, that feed Imobilizor Alarm, ECU and instrument.
But what is realy the main reason for this uncharging? Can it be solveable?
 
Idea is to have a main battery switch in my car.
Or having a service charger when not using the car for a few days or more.
If I disconnect the battery I have understood my ecu looses some settings for  idle control etc.
 
 
 
Br, Per

[Arno]

The alarm can draw quite a bit of power even swicthed off if the battery backup in the siren unit (under one of the front lights) gets bad and it tries and fails to recharge that. You could try turning off the alarm and then disconnecting the siren unit and then measure again.

 

If the alarm is switched on then the interior motion sensor draws the most power and it's pretty normal for it to run a battery flat in about 2 to 3 weeks.

 

In your case there may also be an issue with the engine conversion and the wiring giving some un-wanted result (eg. a relay that stays powered on). So you could also try to disconnect the Honda ECU and the different relays in the back of the car and see what the current draw is in each step.

 

Finding this sort of thing usually means looking at the circuit diagram and then selectively disconnecting various parts that are attached to this circuit until you find the problem and then work onward from that one.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you Arno, is the backup battery in the siren unit interchangable?

 

Not the most exciting thing for your guys in here but I am happy.

Santa was here early.

 

 

​

[Arno]

Thank you Arno, is the backup battery in the siren unit interchangable?

It's basically some NiCd or NiMh cells as a battery pack inside the siren unit.

This is so it works when someone tries to sabotage the car and cuts the main battery power or the wires between the siren and the alarm control unit.

To replace the batteries you will need to take out the siren unit and dis-assemble it and then see if you can solder in new ones.

That is.. If you have determined that this is indeed the problem

Another option in that case would be to buy a new siren. The original is now obsolete, but this one replaces it:

http://abacuscaralar...d&productId=389
 

 

First thing to check will be to see what circut that's attached to fuse 8 is drawing the current and then work from there.

 

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Now I have measured the amphere again over the brown fuse and its not down to

0.07Á instead of the 0.14A I measured some weeks ago maybe this could be because Ive had the battery charger on some more time

and now also the battery in the siren is full? So the question is what is normal?

I red on the Swedish Hondaclub that a S2000 consumes 0.03A from both alarm stero and ECU in total.

And Im at 0.07A for alarm and ECU (which is not so far away) and Another 0.07A for the stereo. But I will unplug my stereo and see what happends then.

 

Would someone with a healthy VX220/Speedster be so kind and measure how many amps you have over fuse no.8?

 

Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Does anyone know what kind of glue Lotus have been using to bond together the alu chassie?

Or what glue that can be used, if you want to reinforce something the Lotus way.

 

This is one thing that Ive been thinking about for a long time,  To make kind of bracebar between the front

mounting point for the rear lower A-arms. They seem to be a bit "loose" in it´s design?!       

 

 

Br, Per

[Exmantaa]

These are just mild steel bolted-on items, so why not weld something there?

 

(Glue is a 1 component heat cured epoxy. Have the specs somewhere, but for sure mentioned somewhere on the lotus forums. You can use a suitable "toughened" 2 component glue, but take care of the heat in the back...)

[Aerodynamic]

Empty?

What do you mean empty?

Empty is the opposit of ful.

Had a problem with removing a bolt, so I need t modify my oilpan

 

I found my lost parts. New bushings and new paint and soon the suspension.

 

Think I know why it was only banging on 3 cylinders when I started it this autum.

 

Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Got new wheels, yay,

They dont fit. I was promissed 38mm caliper space depht wise.

And they are 23mm.

Probably sending them back.

 

Modded a std shock mount so I could adjust it just like the other side. Dont understand why GAZ doesnt

make the ABS mount adjustable aswell?!

 

ARB mounted

[Arno]

Had a problem with removing a bolt, so I need t modify my oilpan

You can unbolt the bracket that the wishbone attaches to from the car and slide it out together with the wishbone.

Should not really be a big problem and no need to either drop or mod the oil pan.

Bye, Arno.