984 replies to this topic

[Aerodynamic]

And for Harness bar, what dimenesion on the tube is needed and quality of material?

 

Br, Per

[Nev]

It's a good question (sorry I don't know the answer). I guess if you are welding your own in, its a key question. At a guess I'd think CDS would not be suitable, as you'd not want it to bend in case of a severe load on the harnesses.

Edited by Nev, 17 January 2017 - 12:54 PM.

[Tonie Pettersson]

There is some good reading here http://web.sbf.se/re...gler-2017v2.pdf

Look at page 35, there you have dimensions and material specification.

 

I´m planning on taking the car to Finess so they can weld a harness bar for me. I think he said Ø40x2 if I remember correctly.

Edited by Tonie Pettersson, 17 January 2017 - 01:28 PM.

[chris_uk]

i a harness bar here and the pipe is 32.5mm O/D. 

 

 

Edited by chris_uk, 17 January 2017 - 01:37 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

I seems to recognise diameter 40 Tony and thanks for sharing, I will look at the link and see what it says.

 

But a smaller diameter is easier to have fitter since the space between the seat and the speakers is very limited.

 

Chris_UK do you have the speaker panel still installed? Do you know how much offsett your harness bar is compared to the roll bar and which height it is?

[Aerodynamic]

Today I got these small brackets, doesn´t look much to the world but I hope they will improve my seat posistion a littlebit.

 

Tested, they have the same oval screw hole as the original part and this is the most rearward posistion.

I also made them in steel since OEM is supose to be in front and I guess will handle much less load then the rear mounting brackets.

I also tried to optimize them so the seat can be as rearward as possible.

Some paint and they are ready to use.

 

Br, Per

Edited by Aerodynamic, 17 January 2017 - 06:20 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

Does anyone know if it is OK to remove the rollbar when the car is standing on its wheels? It feel like its OK but I want to be sure. Br, Per

[Arno]

Yes, no problem. Only when refitting the rollbar and the back-stays may you need to jack up a side to get all the holes to line up again.

 

Depends a lot on the tolerances and how badly things are 'out'. This is a Lotus-built car of course so some 'massaging' may have been done to get it together

 

Annoying job to get it out though on a complete car as it's bonded to the back panel and accessibilty of some of the bolts is difficult with the side sill and such in place. May need some controlled violence in some steps

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Was the camber maxed in front or both front and rear. I nead around -3.3deg in camber rear. Could this be possible without modification?

If I remember right crandal said that mine was about as good as you could hope without machining at -1.5 and -1.6 on the front with all shims out, and -2.5 on rear. I later changed it to -1.2 and -2.2 as I felt braking was compromised and tyre wear a little high considering I was doing 12-13k a year.

[Tonie Pettersson]

I machined my rear uprights so I can max them at ~3.3 to 3.4. Not needed for me though since I have even wear and heat with 2.7. I can check tomorrow to see how much I removed.

[Tonie Pettersson]

So it turns out I didn´t remove material on the upright for more camber. I machined the top end to allow more clearance for the wishbone (marked on the picture).

 

Pretty sure I have 1 shim plus ABS-bracket atm. and running 2.7°, but it seems to differ from car to car how much you can get.

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you Tonie but how can you have even wear and heat. My both front and rear tyres are purple on the outside. And I have harder springs and ARB then you?
I use 425/550.

I will look at the rear spindles tomorrow.
Br, Per

So it turns out I didn´t remove material on the upright for more camber. I machined the top end to allow more clearance for the wishbone (marked on the picture).

 
Pretty sure I have 1 shim plus ABS-bracket atm. and running 2.7°, but it seems to differ from car to car how much you can get.

[Tonie Pettersson]

Thank you Tonie but how can you have even wear and heat. My both front and rear tyres are purple on the outside. And I have harder springs and ARB then you? I use 425/550. I will look at the rear spindles tomorrow. Br, Per  

 

 

I´m much slower than you .

You´re on V70A right? I have 595 RS-R rear so maybe not comparable to your tires. Running 425/525 with EP 1" arb in front.

 

Speak to Martin @ wheelbase, he knows everything needed to know regarding V70A. He might have some input on the camber settings.

[Aerodynamic]

Yes have noticed it´s bonded to the back panel,   argh.....

But what about the fiberglass, is it needed to cut anything in the fiberglass to get the roll bar out?

 

I´m not very interested in cutting any panels of the car, I have seen I need to remove the real clam tho, but I had to remove it anyway when removing Engine and rear subframe.

when the bar is loose can I just lift it out then?

 

Br, Per

 

Yes, no problem. Only when refitting the rollbar and the back-stays may you need to jack up a side to get all the holes to line up again.

 

Depends a lot on the tolerances and how badly things are 'out'. This is a Lotus-built car of course so some 'massaging' may have been done to get it together

 

Annoying job to get it out though on a complete car as it's bonded to the back panel and accessibilty of some of the bolts is difficult with the side sill and such in place. May need some controlled violence in some steps

 

Bye, Arno.

 

[Nev]

 

Thank you Tonie but how can you have even wear and heat. My both front and rear tyres are purple on the outside. And I have harder springs and ARB then you? I use 425/550. I will look at the rear spindles tomorrow. Br, Per  

 

 

I´m much slower than you .

You´re on V70A right? I have 595 RS-R rear so maybe not comparable to your tires. Running 425/525 with EP 1" arb in front.

 

Speak to Martin @ wheelbase, he knows everything needed to know regarding V70A. He might have some input on the camber settings.

 

 

V70A are certainly a bit stickier than 595RSR, flat side walls, moderately strong carcass.

 

Edited by Nev, 28 January 2017 - 07:11 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

Yhea thats true I drive on V70A, was a long time ago since I used to drive R888 so dont remember how they felt

but I´m pretty satisfied with the grip in them.

 

But they seems to like a lot of camber.

 

Br, Per

[Aerodynamic]

So took a look at my rear suspension and see I have 1.5mm shim on one side and 0.5mm skim on the other side.

Which is easiest, remove 2mm of the spindle or 2mm of the plint. Or ditch the ABS bracket on one side, on this side I would be able to remove total of 1.5mm.

 

Br, Per

[Arno]

Yes have noticed it´s bonded to the back panel,   argh.....

But what about the fiberglass, is it needed to cut anything in the fiberglass to get the roll bar out?

 

I´m not very interested in cutting any panels of the car, I have seen I need to remove the real clam tho, but I had to remove it anyway when removing Engine and rear subframe.

when the bar is loose can I just lift it out then?

 

Normally you don't need to cut the back panel or the fiberglass itself (not so much up to speed on the VX/Speedster in this area..), but you will need to cut/loosen the layers of black betaseal/sikaflex that's used to bond it all together.

 

Which is quite an annoying and slow job especially if you want to keep the parts in nice shape so you don't damage the parts and not cut them to bits.. This usually means using heated knives, cutting wire, etc. and working in uncomfortable positions.

 

Once the glue is all cut loose you can unbolt the hoop and backstays and lift the hoop from the car.

 

Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Hi and Thank you Arno. I was thinking of the fiberglass on side of the roll bar but this doesnt need to be cutted either? Do you Arno have any idea how to tie the ABS plug without ABS bracket? Br, Per

[Arno]

Hi and Thank you Arno. I was thinking of the fiberglass on side of the roll bar but this doesnt need to be cutted either?

Not the actual fiberglass, but the black glue that attaches it.

 

At least.. The tricky bit is to cut through the black glue and not damage the other parts
 

Do you Arno have any idea how to tie the ABS plug without ABS bracket?

Simple cable-tie/tiewrap to the wishbone tube works fine usually..

 

Just tie the cable from the car onto the wishbone near the upper balljoint and leave the connector free to move so it can flex/move with the steering movement..

 

Bye, Arno.