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#781 Aerodynamic

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 06:56 PM

Does anyone knows how to fasten the yellow connector to the console, I assume it should be attached in some way by the grey part?!
I didnt take this things apart myself.

Br, Per

#782 Aerodynamic

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Posted 23 May 2019 - 05:07 PM

I couldnt resist, I also want gold. Not just letting my wife wear all of it.  :-)

Cif4ATv.jpg

 

First real drive of the year.

GVRS69e.jpg

uXMsVkh.jpg

And I need to wash it.

 

So now I need to change the front brake pads and wonder if someone knows how to?

Loosing the pad pins and remove the pad isnt the issue.

Pushing in the pistons in easiest possible way is what I want to know.

 

Now lets see if I can manage some more updates during the season.

 



#783 sford

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Posted 24 May 2019 - 11:34 AM

I couldnt resist, I also want gold. Not just letting my wife wear all of it.  :-)

 

 

First real drive of the year.

 

 

And I need to wash it.

 

So now I need to change the front brake pads and wonder if someone knows how to?

Loosing the pad pins and remove the pad isnt the issue.

Pushing in the pistons in easiest possible way is what I want to know.

 

Now lets see if I can manage some more updates during the season.

 

I use some of those plastic clamp things to push them apart. Just make sure that you have the brake fluid tank lid open so that fluid can flow freely. Or the bleed nipple open and mop up the fluid. 

 

https://www.screwfix...?search=clkamps

 

Something like one of those that's small enough to fit inside the caliper should do. 



#784 Aerodynamic

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Posted 25 May 2019 - 09:08 AM

It´s not like I don´t know how to change the pads.

I don´t know how to change them quickly with limited amount of Tools.

 

I found this on Youtube. using the pad as a lever sounds easy, hope it works.

 

https://youtu.be/lwDFSvJ6JLo

 

Br, Per



#785 Aerodynamic

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Posted 25 May 2019 - 09:39 AM

And the reason for this strange asking about changing brake pads in most efficient way is

the house is sold. Now living in a flat for a while.

 

Evolution on the house during the years,

Garage is under the new left building/extension.

MbQPZ4W.jpg

 

Br, Per

 

 


Edited by Aerodynamic, 25 May 2019 - 09:40 AM.


#786 Aerodynamic

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Posted 01 June 2019 - 05:32 PM

Yesterday I had a track day.

 

But before this I needed to complete my steering wheel installation so the steering wheel is aligned

and make my new shiftlight to work. I also added a 1mm shim to my new gear shift limiter.

 

Sparco steering Wheel with snap off and 25mm spacer

and my ecliptech shift-p2 shiftlight with 3d printed support to fit the cluster column of the Speedster

1mssa1I.jpg

 

Once on the track day, Gear shifting is working perfectly for the first time

with this Engine, so relifeved.

 

The driver was rusty, had no feel for the car at the first 2 sessions and everyone was passing me

for the first laps.

When I started to get some feeling back and pushed, the car was understeered.

 

I lowered the angle of my rear wing one step, and car was stil a bit understeered but

felt much moe balanced.

 

I also tried to soften my front shocks ( Gaz Monos) but the click have seemed to disapear.

 

The car behaved beautifully.

 

SCCB4z5.jpg

 

Next is to try to get some more front downforce.

 

I Have some ideas, but I dont have a garge anymore so any solution needs to be simple.

 

 



#787 Aerodynamic

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Posted 01 July 2019 - 05:30 PM

A new track day have past, last friday 28th of June and again at Kinnekulle ring.

 

I wanted to prepair the car with some parts to get more front downforce and also prepair the car before this track day.

But since I was ill before I didnt have the energy to prepair anything.

 

On the track I decided to do the preparation work I wanted to do earlier in the week and lost some track time.

I change my worn Mintex 1155 to new CL RC5+ on the fronts (According to internet they should have the same friction ratio).

lowered the front with 1 turn on the front dampers and soften my MBR 1" ARB to second from hardest.

I also lowered my splitter slightly and increased rear wing angle 1 step.

 

I Went out for some installation laps, and the initial bite from the front brakes were massive.

After the installation laps I Went into the pits and picked up a friend who Went with me in the car for some laps.

The car felt much heavier with a passanger on track. Ive never had a passanger on track in this car before.

 

EsfBRhk.jpg

After the initial bite from the front pads were gone, the brake balance was back to normal, now with Mintex 1155 rear and CL RC5+ in front.

 

Later in the day my wife and kids joined at the track and my wife also Went with me for some laps.

m5zw5ZB.jpg

Wife and friend who joined me during the day.

 

Later in the day when I was alone in the car and I got more confidence in and started to push

the car behaved really perfect, Perfect balanced in all ways, possibly slightly understeered but only minimal.

I felt like I was flying.

Just in the end I was down to a 1.00.14 (A track where the 60 second is a big mile stone, separating the amatures from the big boys)  :-)

I was totally exhausted (beeing ill for 2 weeks Before) but I wanted to be below 60 seconds.

I decided for a cool down lap Before a attack lap.

 

Bang 59.65. I´m super happy, Wanting this for more then 10 years or so.

Tried Another attack lap and was even faster, but then I missed out in one corner due to lack of arm strength

and decided this was the end of the day.

 

You behaved perfect today girl.

Now I will give you a nice wash.

waEGjoc.jpg

 

 

 

 

 



#788 Ormes

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 08:00 AM

It´s not like I don´t know how to change the pads.

I don´t know how to change them quickly with limited amount of Tools.

 

I found this on Youtube. using the pad as a lever sounds easy, hope it works.

 

https://youtu.be/lwDFSvJ6JLo

 

Br, Per

 

I use this:

 

https://www.ebay.co....BMaAmuyEALw_wcB



#789 Aerodynamic

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Posted 04 July 2019 - 04:25 PM

Thanks.

 

I loosend the bleed screw and used my pads as a lever and it worked nice.

 

Now I need a new seat.

 

It´s not like I don´t know how to change the pads.

I don´t know how to change them quickly with limited amount of Tools.

 

I found this on Youtube. using the pad as a lever sounds easy, hope it works.

 

https://youtu.be/lwDFSvJ6JLo

 

Br, Per

 

I use this:

 

https://www.ebay.co....BMaAmuyEALw_wcB

 

 



#790 OneYet

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 12:54 PM

Well done!

Under 1 on Knutan is big. 



#791 Aerodynamic

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Posted 11 July 2019 - 08:40 PM

Kinnekulle, but thank you. ;-)

Still havent washed her. :-(

Br, Per


Well done!
Under 1 on Knutan is big.


Edited by Aerodynamic, 11 July 2019 - 08:40 PM.


#792 Jocke_D

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Posted 12 July 2019 - 05:05 AM

WOW - under 1.00 !!

Really good job. Remember a couple of years ago we were both going around in 1.03 - 1.04 (iirc).

It turns out that good mods and practise makes you faster :)

 

 

 

 

 

Well done!

Under 1 on Knutan is big. 

But Knutan (or Knudan) is the nickname for Knutstorp. Not Kinnekulle ;)

In my mind at least.



#793 OneYet

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 09:07 PM

Of course it is Kullen. My mistake.  :blush:

Still. Under a minute is big.  :tt:



#794 Aerodynamic

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 08:41 AM

Gelleråsen Preparation.

 

Now adays it´s not easy to make any big modification, (I will have to wait until April next year for this).

So I need to value the small updates.

 

I have a Inductive phone charger I bought from ebay for nothing, it works excellent and I really love to have it in the car.

But my problem was that since it´s sitting above the passengers left knee more or less the Micro USB Cable often got hit

and resulting in problem with connector and phone not charging. So decided to solve this by solder the Cables directly on the board.

So I could avoid this Micro USB connector problem.

 

I´m so happy with this small and easy update. :-)

 

VifBnGH.jpg

 

I also need to give her a shower after 9 months or so.

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I shifted Wheels between right and left.

 

So just small preparation this time

 

And went off to Gelleråsen, slept over on my parents Place about 1/3 of the way. total distance about 230km driving.

7tqmQ5e.jpg

 

I Think Gelleråsen is one of the most enjoyable race tracks in sweden and it suits our cars very well.

So I have been really looking forward to go there.

 

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Another Speedster, and it will most likely be very interesting one during next year.  :-)

 

Su7VL6G.jpg

 

I had a great day, meeting a lot of nice peaople.

Car behaved good and Ive kept the same setup as from Kinnekulle and I am gaining confidence in the car and beeing able to push.

I really like my brakes, well balanced and slightly oversteered into corners. I´d maybe want a touch more rear biaced brakes.

I also had oil temperatures up to 130 degrees. Which worries me. Should I be worried?

It was a lot of traffic during the day a bit too much to get Clean laps but still very fun.

 

Best lap of 1.16.0. That was 1.5 seconds faster then last year. So I´m happy with that.

And again the lap after I was 4-5km/h faster in first corner than my fastest lap but had to abort that lap due to traffic.

Which means there is still plenty of room for improvement. I know where I can improve the most specially on 2 sections on the track.

 

All in all a superday.

sb2c7d8.jpg

 

Now I need to see in my calender if I can plan another day this year at GellerÃ¥sen.  :-)

 

Br, Per

 

 



#795 Arno

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 09:31 AM

I also had oil temperatures up to 130 degrees. Which worries me. Should I be worried?



Good fully synthetic oil should handle that OK at the time. It will start to break down a little though. Goinf to 140-150 starts to get a little iffy for most oils.

Just schedule an oil change after the trackday.

Bye, Arno.

#796 ditonics

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 09:49 AM

My car get to 130 occasionally on track.
I got a little worried and looked up the specs on the Millers I use.

Rated to 125 continuous and 150 peak.

I'd start by looking up the ratings on the oil you use.

#797 Aerodynamic

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 09:54 AM

I use Motul 300v  15w-50

Next year I will go back to 300v 10w-40.

 

I have my air to oil cooler behind the right side intake.

It´s not sealed off or anything and not sure I want to since I´m on 65degree transportation driving.

 

So next year I thought of getting a fan on my oilcooler, actually sealing the cooler when it´s turned off.

And up to temperature it will start maybe at 110 degree or so and turn off att 100 degrees.

 

I´m worried tho the fan will move slower then it does today? Maybe not since the oilcooler it´s not sealed in?



#798 Aerodynamic

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 09:58 AM

The oilcooler still sits like this.

PEfbDOH.jpg

 

So a fan on it?



#799 Arno

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 12:29 PM

Or create some ducting like on the turbos with the intercooler to get some 'natural' airflow through it.

This position won't really 'do' much unless you fit some fan(s) and ducting on it.
 

If you are worried about over-cooling you could fit an inline thermostat in the hoses which pushes oil through the cooler around 84C and higher.

 

Eg:

 

m_ot_8bsp.jpg

 

Or go to a water-oil heat exchanger setup with a Laminova (should be familiar to you as a Swede ;) ) or similar:

 

laminova-c43-oil-cooler-3492-p.jpg

 

 

Bye, Arno.



#800 Aerodynamic

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Posted 23 July 2019 - 01:02 PM

I have a sandwich termostat to the oilcooler. Maybe it needs a change.

I opted against water/oilcooler since I do t want to load the water cooling system to much. Specially if I increase the bhp.

I thought about making a duct similar to the turbo that is interchangable to current NA vent.
I thought about




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