984 replies to this topic

[Aerodynamic]

No its separate. Its a ERL superdeck. But there is this plate mounted on the top holding the sleeves together. BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Hi there,

Some parts were missing to my Engine, a new chain to the oil pump was needed when I realized the once I had didn´t fit and the upper cam chain guide

was also missing, here I had the chance to upgradeto a better one. Both droped in today.

 

I also had some  parts machined

Front nuckles were machined -2.5mm så it should give me a possibility to have around -2.2 degrees of camber in front .

 

My drive shaft finally got splines.

 

 

Just some parts left  now. Just some time missing to put all the pieces in the right Place.

 

BR, Per

 

 

[Aerodynamic]

It´s been like Xmas all week long.

Today I got a package from Elise shop with a new extra capacity cooler and toe link kit and som other stuff.

Also got a package from my Honda dealer with2 oil filters.

My oil pan have got som baffles too.

Tonight I have been in the garage painting a lot of stuff so I can start to assemble everything again.There is nothing more I hate the rust.

Tomorrow I hope I will get some time to start assemble drive shaft and Engine.

 

BR, Per

 

[Rickwoo118]

Dread to think how much this project is costing but looking forward to hearing and seeing the end result.

[Aerodynamic]

The cost of this Project is too high. But there is no way back now.

 

I try to make things budget as far was possible without loosing quality.

 

If I knew how much it would cost and how much time it would take. I´d wait Another year

and prepair more first.

 

BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

So did some initial assemblying on my drive shafts today, and it seems to fit.

 

But I have messed up regarding the knuckles. I don´t remember where these washers belong.

 

Also I´m going to get new bolts for the suspension this week. And was thinking I should get 12.9 quality of some bolts, but which bolts are the once needed to be upgraded?

 

BR, Per

[Rosssco]

Dread to think how much this project is costing but looking forward to hearing and seeing the end result.

 

All in perspective though - you are ~£10k to stick a basic K20a in a Lotus if you get someone to do it, so...

 

Ps.- If you have designed engine mounts and compatible driveshafts suitable for the VX220 / Speedster, you could always make some money back by selling a 'kit' to others who fancy doing a Honda K swap..

Edited by Rosssco, 16 June 2013 - 05:53 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

When looking in the assembly notes for the toe link there are some lines I am not really sure what it´s saying. (I´m a Sweede)

 

"We recommend to apply some ACF 50 or corrosion block spray in the boot." Boot, is this the rubber thing around the uniball? Anyone knows about other brands then ACF 50, we don´t have this in sweden.

"For any application where aluminium parts will touch Stainless or mild steel Surfaces, we highly recommend the use of Duralac." Can I just use Zink spray instead of Duralac? I´m not sure I know  what Duralac is.

 

Br, Per

[Arno]

Boot, is this the rubber thing around the uniball? Anyone knows about other brands then ACF 50, we don´t have this in sweden.

ACF50 and 'Corrosion block' are (as the name implies) light oil types with corrosion inhibitors inside it.

It should be available in Sweden too as both are used heavily in the aviation and marine/nautical applications to keep parts free from rust and oxidation.

Here's a swedish seller:

http://www.banhoj.co...rrosion-Formula

"For any application where aluminium parts will touch Stainless or mild steel Surfaces, we highly recommend the use of Duralac."
Can I just use Zink spray instead of Duralac? I´m not sure I know  what Duralac is.

Duraclac is a joint compound that's a bit like paint which contains several components to stop galvanic reaction between aluminium and steel.

It's a yellowish type material that you 'paint' onto different (eg. steel and aluminium) metal surfaces that will touch and it will stop corrosion because of the galvanic reaction.

It's commonly used in boat/ship building and maintenance when fitting (stainless)steel parts to aluminium ships or vice-versa when fitting aluminium (or brass/copper items) to steel ships.

You can also use Tef-Gel as an alternative to Duralac, which is a similar product:

http://www.townshend...oduleItemID=115

But in your case, for the toel-links, it's a non-issue as the Speedster has steel uprights, so you have no aluminium-steel contact areas.

Bye, Arno.

[fezzasus]

Arno, you've confused a couple of different points. the Elise Shop toe links suggest using ACF50 in the boot (and yes Aerodynamic, that's the rubber thing) to prevent the universal joint corroding. The corrosion block shouldn't set like Duralac.

[Arno]

Which is what I said?

 

ACF50 and Corrosion-Block are light oils with corrosion inhibitors and normally sprayed on (moving)surfaces

 

Duralac (and tef-gel) is completely different and used as a jointing compound for fixed connnections.

 

The toe-link documentation Aerodynamic has is probably generic and the S1 Elise toe link kits with the aluminium uprights do need some duralac in various places. S2 Elises and VX'es do not as they only use steel parts in the rear suspension so don't suffer the galvanic corrosion issue.

 

The ACF50 inside the boot is just to stop the joint at the end rusting from moisture ingress or condensation in the boot.

 

BTW.. 'Full on' greasing of the joints is often not advised as these are usually teflon lined joints and they rely on the metal-to-teflon contact inside the bearing for correct operation. Grease and oil can actually reduce the lifespan as some types can attack the teflon layer, making it wear much faster and the joint goes 'sloppy'.

 

Bye, Arno.

[fezzasus]

He's got the elise shop toe links which suggest using ACF50 on the ball joins, hence me making sure he is aware of the difference between the light oil corrosion inhibitors and setting corrosion blocks. The intial read of your post doesn't make the difference clear so I wanted to ensure that he didn't use duralac in place of ACF50

 

Teflon is inert, grease and oil only cause damage if they entrain debris.

 

Finally, while it's not asg ood, WD40 was developed as a corrosion block and can be used instead of ACF50.

Edited by fezzasus, 17 June 2013 - 09:04 PM.

[Aerodynamic]

I was in a car part dealer and asked about ACF50 and he thought it could OK to use Silicon grease?!

 

Also anyone know where these washers are supose to be?

 

Then, when using stronger bolts, is 12.9 OK to use? and which are the most critical bolts? Highest priority to change!

 

BR, Per

[Aerodynamic]

Anyone? I know the washers is in connecting Point toward the knuckles, but exactly where I don´t know.

 

Another problem, ABS sensor wireing problem.

 

Is is fixable with soldering iron? Or will it just brake directly?

 

Br, Per

[Speedsterspeed]

Anyone? I know the washers is in connecting Point toward the knuckles, but exactly where I don´t know.

 

Another problem, ABS sensor wireing problem.

 

Is is fixable with soldering iron? Or will it just brake directly?

 

Br, Per

My experience is that you cannot solder the cables that go to the ABS, I believe that they are made of stainless steel. You can try to cut away the plastic and use a clamp.

/Mikael

[Aerodynamic]

the z22se ECU was bolted to the inlet manifold.

The right hand red circle is the charcoal filter, the [color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"]pipe which goes from charcoal filter to gearbox side breather can be shortened, simply cut the pipe from the plastic fitting on the charcoal filter and then shorten the other end so that the breather sits between the two small pipes coming out of the charcoal filter (rather than going from one side of the car to the other).[/color][/font]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"]T[/color][/font][color=rgb(40,40,40);][font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"]he left hand red circle is the manifold, this can be removed and the large pipe sitting next to the fuel filler can be connected to the fuel filler (instead of the large pipe from the manifold) and the 'Y' join is connected to the two small pipes coming out of the fuel tank. The other small pipe on the charcoal filter is removed and left to vent to air, unless the Honda engine has a fuel tank vent valve, then it can be connected to that.[/color][/font]

 

I couldn´t see your Picture, having the computer on the car Writing this. The big hoose comming from the tank is going directly to the pipe just under the fuel filler!? what do I do with the 2 smal hooses comming from the tank?

 

Also on top of the charcol filter there are 2 small hooses comming out. one is going to the yellow safety valve

But what do I do with the other one?

 

BR, Per

[oakmere]

Anyone? I know the washers is in connecting Point toward the knuckles, but exactly where I don´t know.
 
Another problem, ABS sensor wireing problem.

 
Is is fixable with soldering iron? Or will it just brake directly?
 
Br, Per

Soldered mine lasted 3 years so far.

[tommobot]

 

Anyone? I know the washers is in connecting Point toward the knuckles, but exactly where I don´t know.
 
Another problem, ABS sensor wireing problem.

 
Is is fixable with soldering iron? Or will it just brake directly?
 
Br, Per

Soldered mine lasted 3 years so far.

 

Same here..

[Arno]

I was in a car part dealer and asked about ACF50 and he thought it could OK to use Silicon grease?!

Probably OK to use that and also use it to seal the boot from dirt ingress. Won't have any real anti corrosion properties though.  

Also anyone know where these washers are supose to be?

Those look like the original washers/spacers for the original toe links on the back? If you are fitting uprated toe links then you won't need these anymore as the upgrade kit should come with all the required washers, spacers and adapters where required.  

Then, when using stronger bolts, is 12.9 OK to use? and which are the most critical bolts? Highest priority to change!

12.9 is IMHO OK, although 10.9 is usually recommended as it's less brittle. The ones that need to be changed are the two bolts at the top that connect the balljoint plinth/block to the upright and where the camber shims are fitted. With 10.9 or 12.9 you can do up these bolts to around 65Nm instead of the 45Nm with the 8.8 bolts which helps the clamp load. Bye, Arno.

[Aerodynamic]

Thank you very much Arno, very helpfull,thanx.

 

Regarding the washers I found a Picture.

 

1 is marking for the thinner washers, one on every knuckle lower main joint?

 

The 2 thicker washers  marked as 2 and 3 are for the OEM Toe linkage.

 

BR, Per