
Anodising - Anyone Interested In Forming A Big Batch?
#101
Posted 27 January 2013 - 02:13 PM
#102
Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:46 PM
When do you need us to start stripping the parts off?
Should know more about timescales and stuff once I hear back from or get a hold of Rob. I've already asked what their turnaround time is too.
Will keep you all updated.
#103
Posted 27 January 2013 - 08:36 PM

#104
Posted 28 January 2013 - 04:54 PM
#105
Posted 28 January 2013 - 11:52 PM
This is the FINAL list (unless I've missed anything already posted on this thread):
davemate (Filler Cap, Heater Controls, Handbrake Grip, Carpet Screws, Starter Button)
Matt_S86 (Window Winders, Handbrake Grip, Gearstick Surround)
Luke (Filler Cap, Window Winders, Heater Controls, Dash Plaque, Handbrake Grip, Gearstick Surround, Carpet Screws, indicator/wiper stalks, Starter Button)
Way-aye-Pete (Filler Cap)
Graeme Lambert (Filler Cap)
Mark (Window Winders)
Steelic (Filler Cap, Window Winders, Heater Controls, Dash Plaque, Handbrake Grip, Door Lock Pins)
Chris P Duck (Filler Cap, Window Winders, Heater Controls, Dash Plaque, Handbrake Grip, Carpet Screws, Starter Button)
Me (Filler Cap, Window Winders, Heater Controls, Dash Plaque, Handbrake Grip, Gearstick Knob, 2xCarpet Screws, Door Lock Pins)
Total order:
7 x Filler Cap sets
6 x Window Winder sets
5 x Heater Control sets
4 x Dash Plaques
6 x Handbrake Grips
2 x Gearstick Surrounds
1 x Gearstick Knob
5 x Carpet Screw sets
2 x Door Lock Pin sets
1 x Indicator/Wiper Stalks
3 x Starter Button (if possible)
I got the following quote today, priced per item rather than batches (IGNORE the finishing, that's a misunderstanding from the example photos I provided - I've confirmed we want matt black on all parts):


With VAT & £50 P&P both ways (to and from Mansfield, allowing for the 119 components I'll be sending on a return trip & apportioned according to % of order value) I work this out at:

That looks like a decent price to me. Naturally, if the P&P costs less, that's savings to everyone & vice versa.
As stated before, you'll each also have to factor in P&P to and from me. PM me for my address details so you can organise your own quotes. To make things remotely manageable for me, I'll want to use one delivery company, so let's hear who's got experience of the best cost/reliability compromise.
I'm sure we'd all like to get this done ASAP, so if you can get your parts to me by Wednesday 6th Feb (allowing the weekend to strip down and clean parts, send Monday for 48hr delivery) then I'll sort them out, mark them all in very discrete places with a punch or scribe to allow identification after they come back and ship them off no later than Friday 8th Feb. They've quoted 3-4 days turnaround, so I'd say you're looking at having the parts back with you around 19th Feb. If you can all beat those timescales and/or want to pay for next day deliveries, we'll only be constrained by the slowest person.
LAST BUT IMPORTANT THING: I need to make sure you're aware of the statement on the quote: "If parts come in lacquered, dirty or painted these will need surface finishing at extra cost."
If I've missed anything or made a mistake, just let me know (as if that needed pointed out

Cheers
Dunk
#106
Posted 29 January 2013 - 09:38 PM
Cap came off easy thanks to the below advise.
Support the cap between two tables, or similar, and get the biggest socket you can into the round key area and smack it a couple of times. Did it with my old turbo one, it came out on the second blow.
But can't get the surround off, all bolts out and the filler neck seems "loose" now. However can't get the bastard off the clam. Is it just glue and gunk to be overcome with brute force and ignorance or is there a technique?
#107
Posted 30 January 2013 - 08:52 AM
#108
Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:51 PM
#109
Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:25 AM
#110
Posted 01 February 2013 - 06:18 PM
#111
Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:31 PM
Happy for you to mark yourself or I'll do it and let everyone I do it for know what the marks are before they go off for treatment. If anyone's you're doing their own, best to post up here what you're doing so we know to do something else to distinguish ours.Are you marking the parts or do you want us to do this?
Assume your going to PM all involved your address?
Yep - I'll PM around everyone in the lists to check if they're still in and to confirm the address to send their parts to. Nobody's expressed a preference for couriers, so I'll go with whatever I find.
Cheers Matt and no problem on the arrangementsBalls only juts caught up with this. I'll get mine in the post to you on Monday. Will PM you now for address details.
Thanks for arranging this!
Matt


Not sure Luke but the've said they can prep/finish anything that requires it, if we give them specific instructions on what you want. They will charge extra for any individual items they need to work on.Ive got a fun weekend ahead of me as ive got to strip all the parts off and also my fuel cap and engine badge is covered in black spray paint so i need to clean it all off. My question is for anyone that knows is i sanded my fuel cap down lightly before i sprayed it up so im sure it will have fine scratches on it. I was thinking of using auto sol on it to remove the scratches but then that will make the fuel cap a mirror finsih, would this then affect the anodizing finish or the colour?
#112
Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:47 PM
#113
Posted 02 February 2013 - 08:18 AM
As my car's a Daily driver, I was going to try and fit one of those plastic fuel caps as mine is being Anodised - Anyone had any experience of them?
You don't need to. Once the surround is off just pop a couple of the bolts back in lightly to stop the filler neck shifting about. With the cap it's only the metal cover you're sending of, the plastic cap still functions... Just looks damn ugly!
#114
Posted 02 February 2013 - 10:59 AM
As my car's a Daily driver, I was going to try and fit one of those plastic fuel caps as mine is being Anodised - Anyone had any experience of them?
You don't need to. Once the surround is off just pop a couple of the bolts back in lightly to stop the filler neck shifting about. With the cap it's only the metal cover you're sending of, the plastic cap still functions... Just looks damn ugly!
Wow, didn't realise that, cool.
Can't wait to have our ludicrously cheap Anodising done, I mean £2.50 for a fuel cap!
#115
Posted 02 February 2013 - 06:10 PM
As my car's a Daily driver, I was going to try and fit one of those plastic fuel caps as mine is being Anodised - Anyone had any experience of them?
You don't need to. Once the surround is off just pop a couple of the bolts back in lightly to stop the filler neck shifting about. With the cap it's only the metal cover you're sending of, the plastic cap still functions... Just looks damn ugly!
Wow, didn't realise that, cool.
Can't wait to have our ludicrously cheap Anodising done, I mean £2.50 for a fuel cap!
I know, I almost feel like we're robbing them!
Ok, so how the fu@k do you get the plastic inserts from the middle of the heater knobs?
Tried woodscrews, small ones hit the bottom then just chew up the plastic. Any larger and I can't screw it in... I've tried with and without the middle metal part. I've tried levering, prising and pulling. No joy :-( any suggestions?
#116
Posted 02 February 2013 - 06:12 PM
#117
Posted 02 February 2013 - 07:19 PM
PS. My parts are all marked with 3 parallel lines "III" no-one else use this please!
Parts Marking
Chris P Duck: 3 parallel lines
fiveoclock: 5
#118
Posted 03 February 2013 - 02:56 PM

#119
Posted 03 February 2013 - 03:22 PM
PS. My parts are all marked with 3 parallel lines "III" no-one else use this please!
Parts Marking
Chris P Duck: 3 parallel lines
fiveoclock: 5
jamesclarkson: JC
#120
Posted 03 February 2013 - 03:38 PM
BEFORE...
Thorough.

Thanks
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: nicollow, anodising, black, coating
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