2116 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

version 2.7.9 released 

 

[Jocke_D]

version 2.7.9 released 

 

 

What's new in this one?

I got my ECU back from flashing earlier this week so I guess I missed out on that one

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

No no That's just the software you use with the reflashed Ecu So you haven't missed out on anything See the download section in obdtuner website it's there for you to use

[fezzasus]

 

version 2.7.9 released 

 

 

What's new in this one?

I got my ECU back from flashing earlier this week so I guess I missed out on that one

 

 

As I understand it, the software on the ECU is constant, but the software on the computer is updated. you can download the newest version from the OBD tuner website.

[Jocke_D]

No no That's just the software you use with the reflashed Ecu So you haven't missed out on anything See the download section in obdtuner website it's there for you to use

 

Don't I feel stupid now. It's obviously the client software that is new 

 

I'll just go back to programming huge mine drilling rigs now... 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

you will basically have access to all of version 2 updates.  

[TFD]

To keep it central in one topic.

 

Dip in the highrev range

 

 

 

Mail from Peter to Chill

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]Hi Chris,[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]I did have a look at the log and there are few things happening:[/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]It looks like you did not drive very much full throttle after connecting the [/color]battery[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;], the long term fuel trim for full power is at 0% so the ECU did not yet compensate for the weather conditions etc. Normally when driving on the track you also use the transition zone where the ECU is still in closed loop but already in the full throttle fuel trim. During this time the full throttle fuel trim gets learned.[/color]

 

So I guess this also appears for me (others?)

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

yeah after resetting the fuel trims or allowing the battery to go flat completely or disconnected

[TFD]

Need to drive more full beans to get the trim right I guess.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

unless there perfect from the feed back from the sensors is a perfect match to fuel table they will be different ( no chance of this ) so yes you  need to drive more over 3600 - limiter

[TFD]

Little interesting thing... Roadsurface can fcuk up your knock meassurment ane time retarding. Was doing some tuning and powerruns yesterday on a b-road. Run 1 gave me 5 deg retarding knock... when doing the same run straight afterwards on a tarmac road there was 0.3 deg knock retarding. I know a flat straight road is recommanded in the obd-manual but didnt realise it made such a difference. So my timing is now way retarded and going to look for another nice straight tarmacroad... looking for the lost ponies. Just saying.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

This is not unusual It's probably better to do a log And see if the knock is the same at same load and Rev

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I personally don't use the Obd tuner learn ignition mode I do it all manually using power runs and logs

[TFD]

Let's talk about (false) knock..

 

When building my timing map I allready dropped timing to about 13 degrees due knock. 

Builded the map with more timiing up the rev range and finally got myself a knockfree powerrun.

 

 

Few days later I did the same powerrun on the same road and got 5 degrees knock retard. Did some more tests and the knock retard is very hard to reproduce (it occurs whenever it wants..).

 

I've checked my sparkplugs and they look good. Checked the top of the pistons and no sign of wear. When doing powerruns (or drive for that matter) I dont hear detonation rattle/ping (yes I know how it sounds). The SC guys run 5-8 degrees more advanced timing at the same boostlevel / afr.

 

I think something is off and the knocksensor is triggered by something other then engine-knock.

Could this be false knock? Caused by some vibrating stuff in the enginecompartment or something? No faultcodes either.

 

 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

yes the knock sensor is very sensitive 

chek undertrays are nice and tight and soften the shocks and it might sound mad but pump the tires up to 30 psi right round 

[vocky]

many years ago I recall reading that the guys in the states had a similar issue (false knock), they mentioned fitting a rubber washer between the knock sensor and the engine block.

 

I cannot remember what the outcome was or even if it was a sensible solution or a total waste of time.

 

Edited by vocky, 03 July 2016 - 08:08 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

i also found that running ignition that was to low can also cause knock so dont automatically go low, but as you are turbo charged things may be a bit different 

 

also here in the uk most will run a higher octane fuel so if there is knock its with a lot higher advance 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

This is a simple one but a lot of others have suffered with a simple mistake 

After you built the ignition up are you sure you made it permanent on to the ecu 

if not it can reset back to the original settings when you turn ignition off

 

 

 

[TFD]

I'll look up the rubber washer trick, thanx.

 

About to retarded timing can cause a lot of heat due too to late of burning. This can be compensated a little by running rich (slow flame burn).

Haven't found out if too retarded causes high EGT's and therefore knock (if high EGT's would cause knock in the first place..).

 

Thanx guys     

[TFD]

This is a simple one but a lot of others have suffered with a simple mistake 

After you built the ignition up are you sure you made it permanent on to the ecu 

if not it can reset back to the original settings when you turn ignition off

 

 

 

 

Nope, I've read the manual