4396 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Yep under high loads The vacuum is reversed and the inlet manifold orifice closes of completely And vacuum then comes from the cam cover I think the orifice closing actually helps to control this along with the increased air speed past the inlet pipe which creates the vacuum so the quicker the air flows the more vacuum is created So higher revs = more vacuum Under low loads the the engine breathes through the cam cover ( sucks in to cam cover hence bypass In the drawing )

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 16 September 2015 - 09:15 AM.

[Zoobeef]

But mainly because I'm mid argument because I won't let Ella drive my car at national lol

Maybe I should bring melissa along so your Mrs can convince her that cars are a good thing and tracks are great. I can't convince her to come out as a passenger on the road let alone on track or drive it. On second thoughts my headache will be less as I'm not bringing her

[Sutol]

Chris, I notice on the throttle tab of OBDT there is a drop down menu with a 'sport' option. Have you tried it or modified anything on this tab?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Chris, I notice on the throttle tab of OBDT there is a drop down menu with a 'sport' option. Have you tried it or modified anything on this tab?

Yes I've played with this quite a bit to get the LS4 smoother But not used the sport throttle map

[Sutol]

Emm might give it a go just to see if I notice the difference.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Emm might give it a go just to see if I notice the difference.

Let me know how you get on with it

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I had rather a lot of these



So I removed them

[Captain Vimes]

Good choice. Think I need to take the rest of mine out too.

[Tony H]

Oh snap!

 

 

[oakmere]

Emm might give it a go just to see if I notice the difference.

It makes a big differance on my N/A but to aggressive for me. The SC softens the throttle response so it might feel ok.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

With Snetterton national now a part of history and the last track day for 2015 done, Thought I should have a reflective moment on the year The car has ran flawlessly with a few minor issues like fuel cut off pop out and the plug coming off the coil pack a few times So overall I have to be happy with the engine and the way it's ran👍 with the Harrop on It did take a bit of time and money to release the power from the Harrop and just goes to show everything has to be working well to get it to run the big numbers The car does run very hot on track like most Harrop cars and does lose power the hotter things get So what's the plan for the winter Number 1 priority has to be getting the car to handle better The extra power has took a lot of getting used to this year especially on track, and the cars setup has also been shown to be a major weakness this year So there are plans to get all the wishbones re coated and rebushed And a conversation with MBR about setting up the car for me To give me the extra grip I'm looking for mid corner and corner exit The car has been very good on the brakes and I'm hoping not to lose any of that with the new setup So watch this space with that I would also like to look at getting the inlet temps lower by using WI , I don't intend to create anymore power until I can drive the car with the power first but might be I will revisit the power thing in the future, Maybe going down from a 3.1 pulley size of the setup allows me to, And hopefully next year I will get more track days in and I will deffo want to do a other euro trip next year as zandvoort was a real highlight

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 29 September 2015 - 02:21 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Here is a few vids from Snetterton First run of the day Finding my feet Last run of the day And a highlight with lee 2.2

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Time to make time for the winters spending 😜

[Acidpopstar]

Nice one Chris you've clearly done a cracking job with your engine build. Your car will be a beast once it handles as well as it accelerates.

 

Water injection is defo the way forward for inlet temps as I've proved. Make sure you get Aquarist system and talk to Crabash about how he installed mine. 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Well the rebuild has started with a check sent to me for £118.75 RFL refund Which was nice

[Nev]

Time to make time for the winters spending 😜

Haha, isn't the trick to try and stop spending! Somehow I've managed it for a year now and it makes the car seem like value for money !

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Time to make time for the winters spending 😜

Haha, isn't the trick to try and stop spending! Somehow I've managed it for a year now and it makes the car seem like value for money !

Hopefully after this year Nev when I've got the car behaving as I want it in the corners and get the throttle control where I want it I can start to think about just adding fuel 🚙💨 I've accepted to enjoy these cars to the max you have to spend the cash

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 03 October 2015 - 03:01 PM.

[Nev]

Time to make time for the winters spending 😜

Haha, isn't the trick to try and stop spending! Somehow I've managed it for a year now and it makes the car seem like value for money !

Hopefully after this year Nev when I've got the car behaving as I want it in the corners and get the throttle control where I want it I can start to think about just adding fuel 🚙💨 I've accepted to enjoy these cars to the max you have to spend the cash

Sort the handling out yourself. I'd highly recommend DIY geo, where you experiment with settings, road test, then itterate. You can set the car up how YOU want it, it's satisfying, costs £0 and you will learn how you can change settings to suit conditions. I spent about 3 weeks (did about 10 iterations), learnt a lot and according to others VX220 owners who have driven it, it has more grip than their own and very neutral hanlding. On a wet roundabout, it breaks traction perfectly at all 4 corners and drifting it is easy. Even when I was on track I could drift it "quite" safely. I'd recommend at least new drop links on the front ARB, or better still a "moderately" uprated front ARB. Then set the ride hights as close to OEM as you can (or change the hub carriers). Then set castor to how you'd like the wheel to return to centre, then set camber to about -0.5 front, -2.5 rear for the road (but go further for more tracking), finally set toe ins. I find that last setting really affects high speed stability, even +/- 2mm is noticeable. It's easy, really. Just takes a bit of time.

Edited by Nev, 03 October 2015 - 04:00 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

The problem is Nev I want the car to be epic on track So each time means spending on track days and making adjustments and trying again The car gets hot on track and makes it hard work working on it on a track day without wasting valuable and paid for track time The best option and wil give better instant results is to get the pros to do it, after I have done the refurb They have had previous expierence and will get there instantly And will work out cheaper than frustrating track wasted time/ money

[Graeme Lambert]

Time to make time for the winters spending �

Haha, isn't the trick to try and stop spending! Somehow I've managed it for a year now and it makes the car seem like value for money !

Hopefully after this year Nev when I've got the car behaving as I want it in the corners and get the throttle control where I want it I can start to think about just adding fuel �� I've accepted to enjoy these cars to the max you have to spend the cash

What's the problem with throttle control Chris?