4396 replies to this topic

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I need to find out if the oem safe mode can be reset

[oakmere]

Just to be clear this safe mode will only activate if an error is detected. It is just not all error codes switch on the elm. Chill had a code showing on the obd tuner. So if no error code you should get no safe mode.

[Exmantaa]

 is something we have to be clear with that it's not hidden somewhere. And I like to know what this safe mode then all does. If it's also causing for a "safe" early power drop around 7K, this is then the first thing to check for on all those cars experiencing this problem.

[TFD]

So perhaps a backup map after all like I stated before. Just not mentioned in OBD.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

The problem with different maps they still have to trim in You would be better just driving and let the fuel trims do there thing or running in fuel learn

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

These faults can be reset in the same way as a normal fault code even if there is no code present

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

On nights tonight so im going to go and make some editions to the current map ( the one i started on Monday ) today, 

 

and then i will make a decision about going back to last years map or use this new one ready for my journey down to MBR on Saturday morning 

 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

 

ive made a bit of progress today but rather than just mapping the latest file ive been replicating what could of happened including the RR session and  the miss fires.

 

so process and more understanding today so im kind of happy but the map still needs some work but time is now short,

before bedford on monday and unless i get a bit of time after taking artic monkeys engine out on sunday this is how it will be 

 

but somtimes you have to take a few steps back and understand whats been going on before you make progress ( god i sound like a old man )

 

 

[TFD]

So why isn't there a drop-off at max rpm now? What did you fix/change?

+40ish ponies back in the stable looks good.

[smiley]

The cool part is that he's doing this on a 3.1"/80mm pully, where others need a 2.9" or 2.8" to get there.

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Others wasting boost

[Exmantaa]

Others wasting boost

 

Boost is merely a measurement of restriction...

 

But what did you change now to re-gain the top-end back? There's a lot of scattered info here and to me not clear what you're exactly working on.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

So why isn't there a drop-off at max rpm now? What did you fix/change? +40ish ponies back in the stable looks good.

I Rev to 7500 but I lifted when my red shift light came on at 7200 ish

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Others wasting boost

  Boost is merely a measurement of restriction...   But what did you change now to re-gain the top-end back? There's a lot of scattered info here and to me not clear what you're exactly working on.

Other creating more of a restriction, causing heat Heat should not be underestimated of how much it robs you of ponies The truth is the richer fuel which was about 5% richer caused the Ecu to pull ignition because knock appeared which then put the car in to a downward spiral in the way it runs My car has never ran free of knock with 15 or 16 degrees of ignition runs best on 17 + 3.5 degrees more in certain areas This is why I've always been complexed by franks and smileys ignition settings and the base maps simply dosent run at them low ignitions it created knock at then the Ecu pulls ignition further So once somthing falls away my car just went in to a downward spiral. I will be honest o didn't expect the rich ness of my car on the RR but was more surprised on what the extra fuel did to my car And then there are these silent error codes which I think decorated the car even further But they are there for a reason I'm sure We must remember all these safety features did keep my car running on the RR admittedly with less power but I was just happy I could replicate it the day after the RR so things could be checked And the logging tool has been worth its weight in gold There is one thing I did find today after fuel learning and that is the top end was quite lean when I smoothed it out without doing the wide open throttle runs which caused the car to misfire which then pulled ignition etc etc But the bit I think that is important is when I did the WOT power run for the AFR to be right with the wideband it wouldent add fuel because of the misfire and knock detection So I had to manually make the car richer top end so the car would do the power runs smoothly and then wideband would then correct the AFR s

[Bargi]

Hats off to you mate for being so persistent and OCD ☺

[TFD]

Chill, Im still confused... To me it looks like there was a problem and you changed so much stuff afterwards its not possible to source the culprit.No step by step plan. Could be me though. Great to see all seems well know but if something is off in obd I want to know.

[Captain Vimes]

Hats off to you mate for being so persistent and OCD ☺

I was thinking the same. Chris, I hope you get some satisfaction from all this. It would drive me round the bend (no pun intended..).

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Hats off to you mate for being so persistent and OCD ☺

I was thinking the same. Chris, I hope you get some satisfaction from all this. It would drive me round the bend (no pun intended..).

I don't think I'm OCD ( ask frank about my files ) lol but do enjoy solving issues and this is what it was a issue which needed sorting. I new the power would be there somewhere it's just a shame it happened and I did t have much time to do it really But will have a other go after Bedford

[NickB787]

Well done and as the others have said hats off to you. The work you do really helps people like me who have both little time and detailed knowledge of OBD software

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Well done and as the others have said hats off to you. The work you do really helps people like me who have both little time and detailed knowledge of OBD software

 

Did you find a partner for the bmw nick,