4396 replies to this topic

[oakmere]

Lucky there Chris did you drive home 😬. They recommend AP disks for high powered cars I think. When you change to 15" wheels also change to 4 stud lotus hub. So you can get the lotus discs which are lighter and have better cooling 👍

[SteveA]

Not good and not first time I've had bolts come lose on them  

 

Probably not loose, likely stretched. Get em replaced ASAP and torque them up to the exact spec's, would have been a massive problem if they had gone. IIRC it happened to FAB at an Anglesey national one year.

[pete-r]

Fully floating bells or solid discs are the way to go Chris.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Lucky there Chris did you drive home 😬. They recommend AP disks for high powered cars I think. When you change to 15" wheels also change to 4 stud lotus hub. So you can get the lotus discs which are lighter and have better cooling 👍

 

Yep this is why im not going to complain, as i took the risk despite them only being rated to stage 2 sc power, not sure how that makes any difference 

 

anyway here is me and peter having fun as usual 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Fully floating bells or solid discs are the way to go Chris.

think if i end up keeping the harrop i am going have to really spend some money on brake setup, but the other things are also bothering me 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

beginning to think if its all worth it for what is basically a track car for a bit of fun 6 times a year and i end up getting frustrated because of traffic 

[SteveA]

 

Being the quickest thing on track is never a great experience IMO. What you need is a light, low powered car that is extremely rewarding to drive and cheap to run.

 

If only I could think of something to fit that bill.......

Edited by SteveA, 10 July 2017 - 01:33 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

 

Being the quickest thing on track is never a great experience IMO. What you need is a light, low powered car that is extremely rewarding to drive and cheap to run.

 

If only I could think of something to fit that bill.......

lol, i cant give up on all the time and effort ive put in to the car since 2012 

[smiley]

You know exactly where this is going after a taste of the sprinting.... 

[The Batman]

  Being the quickest thing on track is never a great experience IMO. What you need is a light, low powered car that is extremely rewarding to drive and cheap to run.   If only I could think of something to fit that bill.......

I agree with steve a Honda powered lotus would be perfect for you chill

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

You know exactly where this is going after a taste of the sprinting.... 

m62 back on with 4.17 gearbox, probably not bother with the smaller wheels ??

[pete-r]

I've often thought about chasing more power but I think I'm at a comfortable point balancing my skill level and not being frustrated but slower or faster cars too much. I think your right in what you said on the weekend when we spoke. 260+4.17=

[haggi961]

Tweak the car to a fast road/ track day car and get the use of road also. Everyone seems to fogrot about the stunning roads we have around us and nothing better then going for a drive through the countryside 😀

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Tweak the car to a fast road/ track day car and get the use of road also. Everyone seems to fogrot about the stunning roads we have around us and nothing better then going for a drive through the countryside 😀

i never ever want to take a harroped car on the roads for a spirited drive, i will do myself or others a injury 

its to much for the road 100%  theres a argument its to much for the track 

[The Batman]

Or do a haggi and become scared of tracking as you may get a stone chip

[Captain Vimes]

  Being the quickest thing on track is never a great experience IMO. What you need is a light, low powered car that is extremely rewarding to drive and cheap to run.   If only I could think of something to fit that bill.......

but I'm biased!

[Nev]

 

Tweak the car to a fast road/ track day car and get the use of road also. Everyone seems to fogrot about the stunning roads we have around us and nothing better then going for a drive through the countryside 😀

i never ever want to take a harroped car on the roads for a spirited drive, i will do myself or others a injury 

its to much for the road 100%  theres a argument its to much for the track 

 

 

God, you were fooking lucky with those HCBs Chris, fooking lucky. I'd check the threads in the upright before replacing the bolts as they might be a bit "cut up" (check the new bolts don't "wobble" in it). If the upright is ok, I'd recommend 12.9 grade bolts, torqued up +15% with mild thread lock. I've had a snapped 10.9 bolt in the past, but the new 12.9 bolts have been fine on mine for 4+ years now (on very pot holed roads). Also check that all your shims have roughed up surfaces to make sure they can't slip.

 

Sorry to see your discs crack. You say that you think you need to spend a lot of money on a new setup that doesn't crack, but I don't think more money = more durability necessarily. As you (and others like me and Joe etc) have found out 3rd party stuff has little desire to work well and just spunking yet more money at EP or where-ever won't necessarily buy you better longevity.

 

I personally think you'd be better going with a big OEM brake disc with plenty of meat on it. OEM = made for long service interval durability, designed for 2+ ton gross laden cars (unlike EP stuff), made to avoid warranty issues (unlike EP stuff), made to safety standards no doubt (unlike EP stuff).

 

I found Alfa 159 discs fit our hubs and cost £12 each, they are VERY meaty and hence will soak up heat well. They are also wide diameter (330mm) so have a larger surface area to dump heat to atmosphere. The benefits of thinking about these 2 merits could be greater than spending hundreds/thousands on a 3rd party system.

 

I doubt very much that I've pushed my brakes as repeatedly as much as you, but I have good faith in them not fading or cracking and wouldn't recommend them if I thought they weren't worth the effort of installing. I happened to fit Brembo calipers, but there are loads of other 2nd hand items out there that would also suit fine. My entire front caliper and disc setup was about £340 +£200 for RC8 pads, but would require some careful machining (which as I did myself was free). In 2 years of fitting them, there is little sign of wear on the discs even with the brutal pads and braking hard occasionally from speeds you don't get near on track. I'm not bragging, just saying they really do shave the speed off in serious situations. Bear in mind the parts are designed for fully laden 200 MPH Porches and 150 MPH Alfas, so if they work on those, so long as you fit/machine them correctly for the VX they will be more than up to the job.

 

For comparison, when I had a Scooby (back in 1997), I melted the brakes on that far too easily and had a very narrow/lucky escape which I learnt from. My new VX setup soaks up way more speed + repeated use that that OEM Subaru setup, so based on that it has merit too (obviously only in my experience), but I wouldn't suggest it if I felt it was inferior, as our lives are at stake.

 

I hope Joe and others with heavy braking issues get to read this, as it's my honest input.

 

HTH + GL.

Edited by Nev, 11 July 2017 - 07:30 AM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I'm going back to solid discs at the front 308mm I think will leave the bells and rotors on the rear for now, the reason I went bells and rotors to start of with is because I was only getting two track days out of a set of RS14 pads and wanted them to last longer ( as there not cheap ) With the advantage of them being lighter I wanted to try the Elise part ones because there cheaper than the ap ones but it seems (joe) hasent had much luck with his either So now moving to larger diameter solids and take the extra weight As for the HCB I'm removing the hub to fully inspect it and new bolts again will report back when I get some time of work

[siztenboots]

Try alcon

[smiley]

Have you evaluated RC6 pads yet Chill?