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#661 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 07:07 AM

Does anyone have any tips how to keep my coolant temps down on track, At pembrey my temps quickly went up to 106 but they were stable at 106 ( probably due to the Dutch software injecting extra fuel at them temps) but I was losing performance at these temps, this was not just Dutch software cars suffering from this as Dave was also suffering from the same temps on CS map, Ryan however was not suffering as much but had a cooler stat installed is this a mod which will help me to keep coolant temps down, Or if you have any other tips they would be appreciated. Chris

#662 JohnTurbo

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 09:00 AM

Triple pass radiator ^^

#663 ArticMonkey

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 11:01 AM

Triple pass rad is only good for track and will not run at its he's in stop start traffic. I had the upgraded thermostat on my SC and only ever got 98 on track. It would run 92-94 on road and of you hit 80mph upwards it would drop off the scale down to 78!

#664 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 11:27 AM

Triple pass rad is only good for track and will not run at its he's in stop start traffic. I had the upgraded thermostat on my SC and only ever got 98 on track. It would run 92-94 on road and of you hit 80mph upwards it would drop off the scale down to 78!

I would rather have that than the high temps in getting on track, Will give the stat a go and update when I've done it, Where is best place for it??

#665 ArticMonkey

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Posted 28 July 2013 - 03:24 PM

CS do them but its just a generic thermo for a vauxhall. If you could work out what for it'll only be about £10.

#666 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 02:40 PM

Ok got a bit of time to today to do s bit on the car, I have now changed the type of pipe from the gearbox breather, ( the old one seemed to be a piece of hose pipe ) I've also made it longer and running up the inside of the clam above wheel arch, Managed to find a narrower jubilee clip so hopefully this is the end of my woes with the gearbox problems I have had since SC conversion . Just got to put under trays back on them I fancy playing with the software again

#667 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 11:05 AM

1155 brakes on ready for the asda charity event, And just a little wright up from the poly bush I installed, The biggest thing I noticed was tickover vibration but no big issue, and after a spirited drive the rear wasent as lose on down shifts so I'm very happy with that poly bush

#668 Kieran McC

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 02:53 PM

Water wetter does help add to charge cooler tank and rad header tank



#669 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 02:55 PM

Water wetter does help add to charge cooler tank and rad header tank

Do you mean a watery mixture rather than 1-1 make it 2-1 in favour of water

#670 Kieran McC

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 03:01 PM

http://www.redlineoi...CFS3HtAod0WoAfg

 

info here



#671 fezzasus

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 03:01 PM

He means something called water wetter, which supposedly reduces surface tension. Personally I wouldn't touch the stuff as it isn't tested for seal compatibility.



#672 Rosssco

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 03:02 PM

No its an additive to the cooling system. I'm personnaly very sceptical...

 

http://www.thetrutha...etterĀ®-review/

 

Even it was effective in the engine cooling circuit, I think its highly dubious it would make any difference to chargecooling performance..



#673 fezzasus

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 04:30 PM

Agreed. The charge cooler does very little to start with.



#674 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 04:34 PM

I was thinking of ducting some air to the front of the radiator, My thinking is with the design of the car the airflow tends to go further towards the back of the radiator what are people's thoughts on this

#675 JohnTurbo

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 05:40 PM

You need to think about air flowing from high to low pressure. It probably works more evenly than you think.

#676 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:00 PM

You need to think about air flowing from high to low pressure. It probably works more evenly than you think.

Wouldn't air be more swirly than direct if air was there because of low pressure.

#677 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 08:20 AM

Went to the Asda charity meet at brutingthorpe yesterday The car ran brilliant all day apart from boiling brake fluid on my second run and I ripped my wheel arch linear out near the end of the day on the passenger side and I was very lucky that u didn't damage the CC pipes or any of the wiring, But I had been working on my map from 5k rpm and it really paid off down the straight the car was flying keeping up with the big power cars TVRs etc managed to reach 145mph with early braking because of brake fluid. Can strongly recommend a good day out to everyone hopefully u will get a other invite to drive again. Highlight was going wheel to wheel down the straight at 145mph with a Audi r8 on the outside me in the middle and a tvr t350 on the inside

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 11 August 2013 - 08:28 AM.


#678 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 02:20 PM

Found this on u-tube That's a loud whine

#679 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 09:12 AM

A bit of good news from weekend the new gearbox breather didn't come of, Made it longer and used vacuum pipe and angled it so the pressure was alway on the nib as nick suggested.

#680 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 14 August 2013 - 05:07 PM

I'm just putting this as a note from vocky My advice would be to purchase one of these brand new saab b207 engines from ebay http://www.ebay.co.u...=item338356410b Then fit a 2.2 crank, eagle steel rods and standard size wiseco 8.9:1 pistons to it, then port the head and fit some blower cams, this would create a brand new stage 3 engine for less than the cost of rebuilding an old z22se engine.




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