363 replies to this topic

[techieboy]

should also point out that an ARB in isolation is not a solution to anything, first port of call is springs/dampers, the ARB needs to be matched to them, not instead of them.

Indeed. That's why the CF setup is a complete package and included custom spring rates and re-valving the Nitrons to suit.

[Mike (Cliffie)]

" Jamies cars engine/gearbox does not make it go round corners faster."-That is true indeed.

"that's a cop out, how do we/you know that with a decent conventional setup they would not feel even more confident?"- I'm not saying that Simon, I said that the CF set up gave them more confidence in what it replaced. How about we send SteveA out in mine and see what he thinks?

up to you, it's your car!

should also point out that an ARB in isolation is not a solution to anything, first port of call is springs/dampers, the ARB needs to be matched to them, not instead of them.

Look, this may come over as a somewhat bold claim, but I bet I can take just about any VX and with some basic work, make it not only go faster, but a whole lot easier to drive, the idea that the perfect car setup for a racing driver is un-drivable for a mear mortal (in the context of road based cars) is mostly phewi, a well setup car is the easiest one to get the times out of.

I know you have only done a few laps in yours mike, but at any point did you feel it was going to come and bite you?

I don't doubt you can take just about any VX and with some basic work, make it not only go faster, but a whole lot easier to drive and at no point yesterday did mine make me feel nervous at all.

We need to keep the "its not a race car, it is a road car I do track days in" in this mix though.

[Scuffers]

should also point out that an ARB in isolation is not a solution to anything, first port of call is springs/dampers, the ARB needs to be matched to them, not instead of them.

Indeed. That's why the CF setup is a complete package and included custom spring rates and re-valving the Nitrons to suit.

at what cost though?

I bet I could do better and spend half the money doing it.

you all seem intent on spending money, which I find quite amusing considering the comments made in the upright discussion about how much! (in the context, I would rather spend the money on a solution that change the roll centres rather than one that's trying to deal with them where they are)

[techieboy]

Look, this may come over as a somewhat bold claim, but I bet I can take just about any VX and with some basic work, make it not only go faster, but a whole lot easier to drive, the idea that the perfect car setup for a racing driver is un-drivable for a mear mortal (in the context of road based cars) is mostly phewi, a well setup car is the easiest one to get the times out of.

I don't think anyone here doubts that.

The biggest single unquantifiable here and also the one that has the single biggest effect is still the driver though and that makes lap time comparisons between totally different cars, with totally different setups and totally different drivers absolutely pointless.

My track driving is of the I'll drive it as quickly as I can until it gets a bit squiffy, then back off variety. You, Chris, Mike and Jamie drive until it gets a bit squiffy and say "ooh, no worries, there's plenty more squiff to be had yet" and go faster on the next lap.

[TheRealVXed]

" Jamies cars engine/gearbox does not make it go round corners faster."-That is true indeed.

"that's a cop out, how do we/you know that with a decent conventional setup they would not feel even more confident?"- I'm not saying that Simon, I said that the CF set up gave them more confidence in what it replaced. How about we send SteveA out in mine and see what he thinks?

up to you, it's your car!

should also point out that an ARB in isolation is not a solution to anything, first port of call is springs/dampers, the ARB needs to be matched to them, not instead of them.

Look, this may come over as a somewhat bold claim, but I bet I can take just about any VX and with some basic work, make it not only go faster, but a whole lot easier to drive, the idea that the perfect car setup for a racing driver is un-drivable for a mear mortal (in the context of road based cars) is mostly phewi, a well setup car is the easiest one to get the times out of.

I know you have only done a few laps in yours mike, but at any point did you feel it was going to come and bite you?

Put your money where your mouth is... my N/A sits idle. I am doing Silverstone on the 25th. I'll do the track day. Then you come and pick it up with a trailer. Make it awesome on track. I'll come and get it and do Silverstone again and will write a throughly unbiased report.

All expenses payable by your good self.

Edited by VXRed, 18 March 2013 - 04:46 PM.

[SteveA]

The main problem with GT uprights for most people is the lower ground clearance. While this suits a race car perfectly it would pretty much render it useless as a road car. The CF setup is road friendly and allows me to 'arrive and drive' at trackdays. I agree that sorting the roll centres would improve the way the car drives but just to let you know this is also a component in the CF setup. CF actually had my car raised from it's previous ride height to allow it to work better with the standard roll centres.

[Zoobeef]

So, do I need an anti roll bar?

[techieboy]

you all seem intent on spending money, which I find quite amusing considering the comments made in the upright discussion about how much! (in the context, I would rather spend the money on a solution that change the roll centres rather than one that's trying to deal with them where they are)

There's a BIG difference between the £525 I paid for the CF setup (I was in at the very discounted initial price) and a complete set of GT uprights and sundry little items like calipers (I don't think Geary was selling a version with the option to retain standard calipers - assuming you wanted to - at the time).

[chris_uk]

" Jamies cars engine/gearbox does not make it go round corners faster."-That is true indeed.

"that's a cop out, how do we/you know that with a decent conventional setup they would not feel even more confident?"- I'm not saying that Simon, I said that the CF set up gave them more confidence in what it replaced. How about we send SteveA out in mine and see what he thinks?

up to you, it's your car!

should also point out that an ARB in isolation is not a solution to anything, first port of call is springs/dampers, the ARB needs to be matched to them, not instead of them.

Look, this may come over as a somewhat bold claim, but I bet I can take just about any VX and with some basic work, make it not only go faster, but a whole lot easier to drive, the idea that the perfect car setup for a racing driver is un-drivable for a mear mortal (in the context of road based cars) is mostly phewi, a well setup car is the easiest one to get the times out of.

I know you have only done a few laps in yours mike, but at any point did you feel it was going to come and bite you?

That is im afraid a little bit premature to ask.. Hes done what...4 laps none of which at 'race pace' you did 2/3 laps and were sideways nearly spinning it coming upto the mountain...

Anyway the car was never a handful to drive in the first place.. So please dont put this impression across it was.

(I did write out a long whinging post but im going to keep my mouth shut.. For now)

Edited by chris_uk, 18 March 2013 - 05:08 PM.

[techieboy]

(I did write out a long whinging post but im going to keep my mouth shut.. For now)

I did the same, well without the whingeing anyway, at 5:10am yesterday morning during the Grand Prix and then abandoned posting it, as I decided I just couldn't be arsed and didn't want to prolong the agony. It was a remarkably cogent argument as well, considering I'd only had an hour and forty minutes in bed and had been up at the same time the morning before for the fcuked up quali session.

[techieboy]

So, do I need an anti roll bar?

You need to get rid of that British built GRP piece of crap you drive. Oh, wait a minute......

[Wolfstone]

Christ, reading this makes me glad I'm 'Standard Ken'. But I'm gutted my car was apparently sh*t when it left the factory. Can I get my money back?

[LY_Scott]

Should've bought a corsa Ken. VX220's are sh*t.

[rob999]

Scuffers, sorry to digress a little but what's your opinion on LSDs on these cars? No need if they are set up correctly?

[Nelly Vx]

Christ, reading this makes me glad I'm 'Standard Ken'. :lol:/>

But I'm gutted my car was apparently sh*t when it left the factory. Can I get my money back? :lol:/>

Now wonder it's sh*t and handles like a pig it's a turbo .... Maybe you should change the ARB to get quicker exit speeds on the MK roundabouts ?

[Wolfstone]

Scuffers, sorry to digress a little but what's your opinion on LSDs

'Just say NO!'

[chris_uk]

Scuffers, sorry to digress a little but what's your opinion on LSDs on these cars? No need if they are set up correctly?

That deserves another thread i think.

[P11 COV]

Although I am sure this thread has grown far beyond what Paul wanted, it is very interesting.

Certainly has. It is interesting however.

Paul, you have a road car that you drive well and fast on track days; The CF set up will work well on your car but at a cost as it will entail a lot of new components. The 1" will be a useful addition and improvement that will work with what you have got at a fraction of the cost.

Thanks for a clear response. I have some old Nitrons one way on that probably need a refurb but will be staying. They are fairly hard (don't know the spring rates.

The CF set up was never a possibilty was the cost is out of what I am willing to spend (and my wife will let me!!) Even the Pilbeam is a bit to pricey.

So I guess it comes down to the elise parts one originally suggested.

However Mike you suggest a 1". Matt has said he would reccomend the 7/8ths although the 1 inch was also a suggestion of his.

So what is the pros and cons of that choice. Will the 1 inch be a bit too compromised on the road?

[chris_uk]

Paul.. If your just tootling around on a couple trackdays for the enjoyment of it i just wouldnt bother doing anything.. Just enjoy it as is. If there is a characteristic you dont like, explain what it is and they might be able to give advice.

[Scuffers]

The main problem with GT uprights for most people is the lower ground clearance. While this suits a race car perfectly it would pretty much render it useless as a road car. The CF setup is road friendly and allows me to 'arrive and drive' at trackdays. I agree that sorting the roll centres would improve the way the car drives but just to let you know this is also a component in the CF setup. CF actually had my car raised from it's previous ride height to allow it to work better with the standard roll centres.

Sorry? They are some £795, And fit standard calipers.

And your addition that you have raised the car kind if gives it away, if it was high enough to use on the road, why would anybody want to raising it?

you all seem intent on spending money, which I find quite amusing considering the comments made in the upright discussion about how much! (in the context, I would rather spend the money on a solution that change the roll centres rather than one that's trying to deal with them where they are)

There's a BIG difference between the £525 I paid for the CF setup (I was in at the very discounted initial price) and a complete set of GT uprights and sundry little items like calipers (I don't think Geary was selling a version with the option to retain standard calipers - assuming you wanted to - at the time).

Scuffers, sorry to digress a little but what's your opinion on LSDs on these cars? No need if they are set up correctly?

Unless you have huge BHP, They are not needed, if your spinning wheels, Sort out the suspension.

Although I am sure this thread has grown far beyond what Paul wanted, it is very interesting.

Certainly has. It is interesting however.

Paul, you have a road car that you drive well and fast on track days; The CF set up will work well on your car but at a cost as it will entail a lot of new components. The 1" will be a useful addition and improvement that will work with what you have got at a fraction of the cost.

Thanks for a clear response. I have some old Nitrons one way on that probably need a refurb but will be staying. They are fairly hard (don't know the spring rates.

The CF set up was never a possibilty was the cost is out of what I am willing to spend (and my wife will let me!!) Even the Pilbeam is a bit to pricey.

So I guess it comes down to the elise parts one originally suggested.

However Mike you suggest a 1". Matt has said he would reccomend the 7/8ths although the 1 inch was also a suggestion of his.

So what is the pros and cons of that choice. Will the 1 inch be a bit too compromised on the road?

For a road only car, The 1" Is probably a bit much, That said, on its softest setting its not going to be horrible.