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Sill Repair/replace Advice


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#21 Mangham54

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:41 PM


Don't worry Matt, It won't be staying silver.


Good man. Decided already? Or up for an .org vote? :unsure:/>


1. Mangham54 - Candy Pink. :lol:

#22 CocoPops

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:42 PM

Lotus Aubergine Purple thumbsup

#23 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:42 PM

Lotus Aubergine Purple thumsbup


Bingo

#24 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:42 PM

Although I'll happy consider an .org vote

#25 FLD

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:43 PM


Don't worry Matt, It won't be staying silver.


Good man. Decided already? Or up for an .org vote? :unsure:/>


1. Mangham54 - Candy Pink. :lol:
2. FLD - dysentry beige :mellow:

#26 CocoPops

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:43 PM

Oh, lucky guess, but fair play! Can't wait to se that on a vx thumbsup

#27 chris_uk

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:45 PM

Looks good. :)

#28 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:47 PM

Oh, lucky guess, but fair play! Can't wait to se that on a vx thumbsup/>


Someone has already done it, http://www.vx220.org...40#entry1322839

But I would like to retain some satin silver, wheels, v, lights.. Not sure about the nasty windscreen surround.

#29 FLD

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:52 PM

Just an idea for this one:
Posted Image

Lay up some flat sheet and cut it slightly shorter than the hole. Lay up a fresh layer and slot it up the hole (ooer) and pull it down inside the sill. The fresh glass should bond it to the sill. Then build up the outside. You might want some self tappers to pull the two together while it cures. Is this clear or am I rambling?

#30 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:57 PM

Just an idea for this one:
Posted Image

Lay up some flat sheet and cut it slightly shorter than the hole. Lay up a fresh layer and slot it up the hole (ooer) and pull it down inside the sill. The fresh glass should bond it to the sill. Then build up the outside. You might want some self tappers to pull the two together while it cures. Is this clear or am I rambling?


That's along the lines of what I was going to do, but using some aluminium mesh rather than a layer. The layer might flex less which is a bonus at this point. So I'll probably go down that route.

Lets see how I get on next weekend.

#31 FLD

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:01 PM

Good luck with it thumbsup

#32 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:01 PM

Good luck with it thumbsup/>


Cheers, and thanks for the advice - good to know I'm on the right route.

#33 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:02 PM

Btw, I might as well turn this into my official repair/respray thread. Guess how much I'll be doing myself?

#34 jules_s

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:11 PM

Fairplay to you Imnotworthy I think the aluminium mesh I've got might be a bit too thin to be effective, I'm also still mulling it over in my mind as to the best method to actually get the mesh in ... Current thinking is to divide the area up into top, curve and bottom. I'm still not 100% certain as to what order to fit the 'strips' though; possibly start at the top and work down, although something tells me the curve is more important to get 'straight' and access to this bit is most important. Trial and error is coming I guess :)

Edited by jules_s, 21 April 2013 - 08:12 PM.


#35 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:13 PM

Fairplay to you Imnotworthy/>

I think the aluminium mesh I've got might be a bit too thin to be effective, I'm also still mulling it over in my mind as to the best method to actually get the mesh in ...

Current thinking is to divide the area up into top, curve and bottom. I'm still not 100% certain as to what order to fit the 'strips' though; possibly start at the top and work down, although something tells me the curve is more important to get 'straight' and access to this bit is most important.

Trial and error is coming I guess :)/>


The mesh is very flexible, it just needs to be hold enough to keep its shape while you apply the matting.

You're right trying to get the shame right, but its not as difficult as you think, you can sand back and build o until you get it right.

Edited by fezzasus, 21 April 2013 - 08:14 PM.


#36 jules_s

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:17 PM

Oh I agree wholeheartedly And I'm thankful for the advice :) I'm working on the basis that getting it as close as I can isn't going to be a bad thing lol ;)

#37 Andrew aka Stuwy

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:21 PM

Adding to this I was behind Stuwy on the Hayling island run and collected part of his bodywork as I came around the corner, so I have now fixed that.



:blush:

pleased it looks ok :mellow: now and your sill repair looks spot on..

Purple on a vx thumbsup

#38 fezzasus

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:30 PM


Adding to this I was behind Stuwy on the Hayling island run and collected part of his bodywork as I came around the corner, so I have now fixed that.



:blush:/>

pleased it looks ok :mellow:/> now and your sill repair looks spot on..

Purple on a vx thumbsup/>


Honestly, I'd almost convinced myself beforehand to respray. That just made it certain.

#39 fezzasus

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:44 PM

I've started the respray. Since I've only used rattle cans before I decided to 'get my eye in' with my hardtop. I've never been that happy with the finish of if because the previous finish was applied straight to the gelcoat without sorting out the ripples in it. So after a couple of days sanding and filling, it was ready for the paint.

Posted Image

Needs a final go over with some cutting compound, but i'm pretty happy with the result.

#40 Wreelybro

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:56 PM

Getting there Tom although I'm getting flashbacks seeing sand and filler on silver clams!




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