257 replies to this topic

[fezzasus]

Why not use a rubber isolation mount? It's the same approach used by OEM airboxes:

 

[chickendippers]

I vote good old cable tie: costs 10p, takes 1 minute to install, leaving you both money and time to go and drive

 

+1, works well enough for me haha

[Ormes]

Cheers for the input chaps

 

Interim measure in place... pending over engineered solution (maybe one day when I can be arsed)

 

 

[Ormes]

A while since I've driven her, so just been on a little drive to test a few things (my god these cars are stupidly quick ):

 

1)

Cable tie holding the intake pipework held up lovely

 

2)

Based on chooner recommendation, I've always run the NSS at around 10 from hard (+/- 2 clicks front/rear) which is the equivalent of around 30 clicks from soft.

Wanted to start recording and measuring from soft, and set at 12f 16r.

After winding down the hardness of the dampers, I simply cannot believe how much better the car feels... just so much more compliant and less crashy

 

3)

Back to back tested with ABS on vs. ABS off, and after experiencing hard pedal a lot recently, again the difference was incredible... just so much more confidence with the abs off, and hard pedal not experienced even once.

 

Can't wait to get Castle Combe booked up again.

 

[Nev]

If it's of any use, for reference, I've got Nipper (with NSS) setup

 

Front:  350 springs, 17 clicks from max hardness.

Rear: 450 springs, 9 clicks from max hardness.

 

Bear in mind our front ARBs differ a lot which will have amarked effect on roll and turn in. I'd strongly recommend you fit a stronger one, as the OEM is p*ss poor floppy by now I expect. I remember testing my old OEM one and with the car jacked one side you could still wave the end of it around with just one hand!

[Ormes]

Thanks Nev...

[Captain Vimes]

I always run my NSS much lower than recommended. Anything close to 10 from hard is just horrible unless on a smooth track and a few clicks can make a big difference. For the road I think I'm between 20 and 30 from hard.

Edited by Captain Vimes, 30 April 2016 - 05:00 PM.

[Ormes]

Cheers captain

[redvts]

I was thinking about the problem as i have an apexi ready to fit, what about something like this on ebay Item number 191619237499 Without the metal bits or just make ur own its just a strip of rubber with some holes in

[Ormes]

I am happy with my install... but I think you could make that work one way or another

[Chriscvx]

Your attention to detail is excellent, and its nice to see others have the same (or better) ocd level! When i get mine sorted, we should all sort out a track day!

[Ormes]

Your attention to detail is excellent, and its nice to see others have the same (or better) ocd level! When i get mine sorted, we should all sort out a track day!

Sure thing Thanks for your kind words

[Acidpopstar]

Just a comment on damper settings - I am no expert however, at my first track outing in 12 months at Angelsey I had forgotten how to set my dampers up. I went out in the first session with my rears set 2 clicks harder than fronts. The car was so oversteery I was worried that something serious was wrong. The last time on track it had been perfectly balanced. Then I spoke to a few people in the pit lane re damper setting and it was suggested that the rears should be softer than the front. I softened the rears by 4 clicks (2 softer than front) and the car was back to feeling balanced again. I run NTR40s. Worth thinking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ormes]

Just a comment on damper settings - I am no expert however, at my first track outing in 12 months at Angelsey I had forgotten how to set my dampers up. I went out in the first session with my rears set 2 clicks harder than fronts. The car was so oversteery I was worried that something serious was wrong. The last time on track it had been perfectly balanced. Then I spoke to a few people in the pit lane re damper setting and it was suggested that the rears should be softer than the front. I softened the rears by 4 clicks (2 softer than front) and the car was back to feeling balanced again. I run NTR40s. Worth thinking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many thanks for the feedback

 

What you say makes sense based on my (limited) understanding, in that as a crude rule, softer front=less understeer/more oversteer and visa versa... Liam @ MMG suggested I run the rear 2 clicks softer than the front.

 

I do have a dilema in that I much prefer the feeling of the car with the front a load softer but haven't driven it "track hard" in this configuration so time will tell, however I will certainly take your comments on board

 

Thanks again.

[Ormes]

UPDATE:

Fitted the Shift-i shift light that I bought 1-2 years ago!... pondered for a while on how/where to fit and the best option was mounting on top of the instrument cowl.

Me being slightly OCD, the top of the cowl being curved and the bottom of the shift light being flat, left me with a problem.

So, dipped my little toe into the world of 3d modelling and printing.

Modelled the Shift-i, then designed the mount...

 

 

Uploaded online and ordered 6 in "[no specified colour] Nylon" which came in white, and thankfully 6 in "graphite black Nylon" which came in black Note that I only ordered so many as there was a minimum spend of £15 so just kept hitting "add" until it hit £15!

You will also see that I added a connector so I could remove the light without snipping wires.
 

 

 

[Ormes]

Then removed the dash top, broke out the wiring diagrams and set about splicing into the +/- to the radio and the tacho feed to the cluster... got it wired in and intended to leave the wire trailing over the back of the cowl:

 

 

Couldn't cope with that so decided to drill the cowl.  With the help of Jay Evans (not sure of forum name), established that I couldn't be arsed to remove the instruments/cowl, so convinced myself that there was enough clearance to drill in situ and feed the wire through... I took the brave pills, grinded a 10mm bit in half and used a 90 degree attachment for the drill, and it all went well

 

 

 

[Ormes]

Then I had another rush of blood to the head... dash plates were already velcro'd on, so the most time consuming bit of removing the dash top is removing the radio cage.  Broke out the dremel

 

 

 

And put it all back together... Generally happy with the results

 

 

Unfortunately my MOT expired yesterday so I've not tested it on the road, however indications are that I am going to like it

I'll hopefully get the MOT booked for next week or the week after.

If anybody wants a mount... PM me.


 

 

[Acidpopstar]

Basically the arse was constantly trying to overtake the front especially on tighter corners. Would be wary of it biting you on the road is all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ormes]

Update - Swapped in the CAT over the weekend and took her for her MOT today... Pass... no advisories

[SteveA]

Are those vacuum suction vices any good?