
I only needed 2 small inserts and they sent me 4 small inserts and 2 bearings.
So once I've fitted everything ill have 2 small + 2 large inserts and 2 bearings spare for the future

Hopefully get it all fitted today.
Posted 30 May 2014 - 01:33 PM
Posted 30 May 2014 - 01:51 PM
I'm never keen to leave a car on axles if I can help it. Given that switching them over is 5-10mins a corner I'd be inclined to put it back on and then when the quantums turn up swap them.
Posted 30 May 2014 - 04:16 PM
Posted 30 May 2014 - 04:22 PM
Posted 30 May 2014 - 07:41 PM
Posted 31 May 2014 - 01:43 PM
Posted 21 June 2014 - 05:54 PM
Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:21 PM
Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:51 PM
Posted 11 July 2014 - 06:49 AM
Edited by mbes2, 11 July 2014 - 06:52 AM.
Posted 11 July 2014 - 06:56 AM
Posted 19 July 2014 - 05:25 PM
Posted 21 July 2014 - 10:37 AM
After watching through a couple of hours of footage i think i found most of the slides and the 2 spins. All when trying to push in the wet as its an area id like to be good at.
https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be
Posted 21 July 2014 - 01:27 PM
Nice vid, good work. You are still taking the dry line in the wet tho (at the end), its always going to be slippy on there.
Posted 21 July 2014 - 01:57 PM
This was my quickest once it had dryer out Fast lap of Blyton Park. VX220 NA: How would you change it in the wet? Just pull it tighter?Nice vid, good work. You are still taking the dry line in the wet tho (at the end), its always going to be slippy on there.
Posted 21 July 2014 - 02:23 PM
In the dry everyone uses the same line which gets loads of rubber on it making it really fast, when it rains the water sits on that rubber and becomes very slippery. You basically sit a car width off the dry line in the braking and corner exit phases and then avoid the dry line by going deeper on entry. It's not quite as simple as that but there are plenty of guides by people a lot more qualified to talk about it than me. This one explains it nicely
http://scottmansell....t-driving-rain/
Posted 21 July 2014 - 03:26 PM
Blimey that looks pretty fast Innman. Have you considered taking your wing off, as it's both (rear-ward) weight and air resistance to overcome? BTW, did you eliminate your charcoal canister, if so can you write a guide (pretty please!). I've been wanting to do this for years, but didn't have the balls in case I messed up and had a fire (after reading about Batman's fire). Your new spring rates sound mental on a circa 800 KG car, how do you find the car handles on uneven bumps ?
Edited by Nev, 21 July 2014 - 03:30 PM.
Posted 21 July 2014 - 03:38 PM
I'm going with the principle that I need the wing as it looks like a racing car and therefore is one. Wether it does anything is by the by haha. I didn't but promised myself I would next time the rear clam is off. On the Noble a small piece of pipe comes from the tank, goes to a small motorsport roll over valve then exits through the floor just in front of the rear wheel. I found at Blyton when hard braking over bumps it skips a little. Wether I can dial that out by adjusting the dampers I don't know. If I know more about how a really good car should feel then I could test and adjust on the day. I've done 7 trackdays now in total! So I have a hell of alot to learn.Blimey that looks pretty fast Innman. Have you considered taking your wing off, as it's both (rear-ward) weight and air resistance to overcome? BTW, did you eliminate your charcoal canister, if so can you write a guide (pretty please!). I've been wanting to do this for years, but didn't have the balls in case I messed up and had a fire (after reading about Batman's fire). Your new spring rates sound mental on a circa 800 KG car, how do you find the car handles on uneven bumps ?
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