34 replies to this topic

[Gedi]

mild (low carbon) steel is more like 280MPa, structural steel is ~350 MPa, you have to go to a pretty high strength steel to get 400MPa

 

I've got a tool up North, infact if you asked last weekend I could have had it taken to Bolton for you.

 

 

 

I ran the calc back through using 280MPa and it came out around 20mm, so it sounds like we're about right.

It might also explain why the EP tool strips its threads so easily, being only 12mm.

 

Maybe I should have asked to borrow one, but I'm doing my front and rears separately so I'd have needed it for a month or two which is a bit cheeky IMO.

Edited by Gedi, 04 June 2013 - 05:45 PM.

[andywilson]

would 15mm on both parts of the tool be ok?

 

I could get these laser cut for not much money and then just tap the holes to suit, much cheaper and easier way of doing it. just depends if 15mm is enough (thickest I can get cut)?

 

 

andy

[PHB1969]

Andy I've got a set here - not far from you - I'm just north of Thirsk, pm me your details and maybe we could meet up so you can look at it. Also got the bush removal tool - not sure if there is a market for that too...?

[slindborg]

My wp tool is certainly more than 12mm thick... More like 30, I will dig it out.

[Arno]

I don't use threaded holes in the tool...

 

Just use some lenghts of M12 threaded rod, some washers (usually greased to allow them to spin nicely) and a handful of 8.8 grade nuts.

 

No biggie of any of these strip (not that any ever have) and easy to replace if they wear.

 

2 nuts 1 plate (one above, one below) can be used to 'bolt' the threaded rod to the plate to make it more stable to work with. Just make sure the hole spacing allows the nut to sit between the wishbone 'eye' outer rim and the threaded rod.

 

Just need to use deep(er) sockets or ratcheting spanners to work/operate it.

 

Never really understood why the newer tools use bolts and threaded holes in the plates as the thread will wear over time, esp. if made in regular steel. I suppose you'd need a tool-steel or some type that can be hardened to get a thread that resists wear..

 

Bye, Arno.

[andywilson]

turns out my laser cutting man can do up to 20mm thick mild steel, i'll send him the drawing tonight and should be back with a price tomorrow.

will probably be around £40 delivered though, as its so thick, so probably not much of a saving...

 

I figure this tool works on elise/exige/vx?

[Gedi]

Arno, if the threads ever stripped (which I wasn't expecting to happen), I was gonna run a 12mm drill through the tapped holes and use washers and M12x36 long nuts as you suggested. I thought it'd be worth trying it without nuts first for the sake of running an M12 tap through 2 holes.

 

Andy, I'd rather give £40 to a machinist for what should be a stronger design than give £50 to elise parts. If we could get a bulk order maybe we could get a good deal.

 

We _need_ to get the drawing dimensions verified from someone first though.

 

 

*edit - oh and yes, this works on elise/exige/evora/vx220

Edited by Gedi, 05 June 2013 - 07:31 PM.

[Tony H]

http://www.ebay.co.u...-/380375240208?

 

I have got one of these bad boys in the shed (not that I have used it mind!)

 

Would this be adequate to do ball joint or do I need the proper tool?

[slindborg]

The plates on mine are 22.5mm, but the press inserts are 35mm

[Anarchy]

I made one but went a bit mad to make sure it worked, no calcs were involved just a good guess of what would do the job, it had two M20 threaded bars, 27mm A/C nuts and two 25-30mm thick plates.  It worked fine but needs a lot of force to remove them.

 

Anyone is welcome to borrow it for postage if they return it.

Edited by Anarchy, 05 June 2013 - 08:17 PM.

[techieboy]

The plates on mine are 22.5mm, but the press inserts are 35mm

 

You made me doubt my measurements. Just dug the calipers out and been to check. Each plate is definitely 12mm thick and the press insert is 16mm thick. This is the latest version (and noticeably smaller than the first black finished version I had), so maybe the quality of the steel is different (it's certainly much - technical term coming up - shinier even after being used on three or four cars ).

[Zoobeef]

I made one but went a bit mad to make sure it worked, no calcs were involved just a good guess of what would do the job, it had two M20 threaded bars, 27mm A/C nuts and two 25-30mm thick plates.  It worked fine but needs a lot of force to remove them.   Anyone is welcome to borrow it for postage if they return it.

A fine thread may make it easier.

[slindborg]

The plates on mine are 22.5mm, but the press inserts are 35mm

  You made me doubt my measurements. Just dug the calipers out and been to check. Each plate is definitely 12mm thick and the press insert is 16mm thick. This is the latest version (and noticeably smaller than the first black finished version I had), so maybe the quality of the steel is different (it's certainly much - technical term coming up - shinier even after being used on three or four cars ).

I must have an early one as its plain nasty

[Anarchy]

 

I made one but went a bit mad to make sure it worked, no calcs were involved just a good guess of what would do the job, it had two M20 threaded bars, 27mm A/C nuts and two 25-30mm thick plates.  It worked fine but needs a lot of force to remove them.   Anyone is welcome to borrow it for postage if they return it.

A fine thread may make it easier.

 

 

It would but mine was all made out of free parts so it will have been standard M20 bar.

[Winstar]

The plates on mine are 22.5mm, but the press inserts are 35mm

The thickness is not just about the threads it about the deflection and associated bending stresses as all steels have about the same Young's modulus so how much they deflect is depended only on thickness this deflection increases the stresses massively and also loads the bolts unevenly.