533 replies to this topic

[Scuffers]

JIMMY...

 

 

THE ONLY PERSON TRYING TO SELL STUFF HERE IS YOU.

 

IF YOU DONT WANT AN ARGUEMENT, MAY I SUGGEST YOU GET YOUR HEAD OUT OF THE SAND, SEE THE PROBLEM AND HELP SOLVE IT.

[siztenboots]

nice use of caps

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Simon, with respect, Jimmy is trying to solve it and has offered to liaise between any unsatisfied Nitron customer and Nitron to resolve their dissatisfaction on the Nitron NTR 40s.

 

Edited by Mike (Cliffie), 23 July 2013 - 01:33 PM.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

JIMMY...     THE ONLY PERSON TRYING TO SELL STUFF HERE IS YOU.   IF YOU DONT WANT AN ARGUEMENT, MAY I SUGGEST YOU GET YOUR HEAD OUT OF THE SAND, SEE THE PROBLEM AND HELP SOLVE IT.

 

 

Aggressive as always.....  Please Simon I've already offered in my very last post 

 

 

 

If somebody is concerned that this is effecting their driving even though there has never actually been a complaint or evidence of this causing problems then please get in contact with me and we can liase with Nitron to rectify this

 

[cnrandall]

Argh.  The irony.

[siztenboots]

hang on , I've got just the perfect cat animation .gif here somewhere ...

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Argh.  The ironing.

I hate it too Chris, especially the linen shirts, what an arse.

[Exmantaa]

 

If somebody is concerned that this is effecting their driving even though there has never actually been a complaint or evidence of this causing problems then please get in contact with me and we can liase with Nitron to rectify this

  

There clearly is a problem with shock body length of the older NTR's. See the people with dents in their upper wishbones...  Putting an extra bumpstop to me is a poor attempt to rectify this, so it would be good if Nitron came up with a proper solution for people who only now recognize a problem they have.

 

Most customers simply think they bought a product that was designed for a VX and not many of them go with a tape measure afterwards to check if Nitron did their homework properly...

[MAXR]

I run 46's on my car. They are definitely far better than my 40's, which I had before.

 

One thing I have not been able to alleviate however, is the amount of wheel spin I get mid bend through fast tight(ish) corners. I have tried several different shock settings which none seem to cure this. I know there are many people running similar higher spec cars who haven't had this particular issue. I have also noticed that the wheels when jacked up don't droop much. Could this prevent the inner wheel to not stay in contact with the track as well as it should?

 

I'm still waiting to get my car back to get back on track, hopefully that will be soon. I've had an LSD fitted now but that seems OTT...

 

Simon, I'm happy to lend you my 46's to test?

 

MaxR

[siztenboots]

Max I have similar problem, but I think mine is front arb and rake problem

[Mike (Cliffie)]

I remember that issue from Snetterton when I took your car out Max. Yes, the lack of droop is more than likely the cause.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

 

 

If somebody is concerned that this is effecting their driving even though there has never actually been a complaint or evidence of this causing problems then please get in contact with me and we can liase with Nitron to rectify this

  

There clearly is a problem with shock body length of the older NTR's. See the people with dents in their upper wishbones...  Putting an extra bumpstop to me is a poor attempt to rectify this, so it would be good if Nitron came up with a proper solution for people who only now recognize a problem they have.

 

Most customers simply think they bought a product that was designed for a VX and not many of them go with a tape measure afterwards to check if Nitron did their homework properly...

 

 

Hi Frank.  I think they just copied the OEM shocks in that respect and yes I agree the bump rubber isn't an ideal solution.  I will as promised speak to Nitron about a solution

 

I run 46's on my car. They are definitely far better than my 40's, which I had before.

 

One thing I have not been able to alleviate however, is the amount of wheel spin I get mid bend through fast tight(ish) corners. I have tried several different shock settings which none seem to cure this. I know there are many people running similar higher spec cars who haven't had this particular issue. I have also noticed that the wheels when jacked up don't droop much. Could this prevent the inner wheel to not stay in contact with the track as well as it should?

 

I'm still waiting to get my car back to get back on track, hopefully that will be soon. I've had an LSD fitted now but that seems OTT...

 

Simon, I'm happy to lend you my 46's to test?

 

MaxR

 

Max,

 

I wasn't aware you were having issues....  You have an identical spec to mine and I very much doubt you're running out of droop.  The open length (422mm) of the 46 is nigh on optimal (435mm touches subframe) so much more droop would mean wishbones hitting subframes.  13mm more droop would only amount to around 8mm actual travel in the wishbone before it hits the subframe and personally I think a few mm's clearance for safety/tolerances is worthwhile....

 

 

I remember that issue from Snetterton when I took your car out Max. Yes, the lack of droop is more than likely the cause.

 

See above Mike

[Mike (Cliffie)]

 

 

If somebody is concerned that this is effecting their driving even though there has never actually been a complaint or evidence of this causing problems then please get in contact with me and we can liase with Nitron to rectify this

  

There clearly is a problem with shock body length of the older NTR's. See the people with dents in their upper wishbones...  

 

These dents also happened on cars on standard Bilsteins. Certainly did on mine.

[Mike (Cliffie)]

 

 

 

If somebody is concerned that this is effecting their driving even though there has never actually been a complaint or evidence of this causing problems then please get in contact with me and we can liase with Nitron to rectify this

  

There clearly is a problem with shock body length of the older NTR's. See the people with dents in their upper wishbones...  Putting an extra bumpstop to me is a poor attempt to rectify this, so it would be good if Nitron came up with a proper solution for people who only now recognize a problem they have.

 

Most customers simply think they bought a product that was designed for a VX and not many of them go with a tape measure afterwards to check if Nitron did their homework properly...

 

 

Hi Frank.  I think they just copied the OEM shocks in that respect and yes I agree the bump rubber isn't an ideal solution.  I will as promised speak to Nitron about a solution

 

I run 46's on my car. They are definitely far better than my 40's, which I had before.

 

One thing I have not been able to alleviate however, is the amount of wheel spin I get mid bend through fast tight(ish) corners. I have tried several different shock settings which none seem to cure this. I know there are many people running similar higher spec cars who haven't had this particular issue. I have also noticed that the wheels when jacked up don't droop much. Could this prevent the inner wheel to not stay in contact with the track as well as it should?

 

I'm still waiting to get my car back to get back on track, hopefully that will be soon. I've had an LSD fitted now but that seems OTT...

 

Simon, I'm happy to lend you my 46's to test?

 

MaxR

 

Max,

 

I wasn't aware you were having issues....  You have an identical spec to mine and I very much doubt you're running out of droop.  The open length (422mm) of the 46 is nigh on optimal (435mm touches subframe) so much more droop would mean wishbones hitting subframes.  13mm more droop would only amount to around 8mm actual travel in the wishbone before it hits the subframe and personally I think a few mm's clearance for safety/tolerances is worthwhile....

 

 

I remember that issue from Snetterton when I took your car out Max. Yes, the lack of droop is more than likely the cause.

 

See above Mike

 

 

An outside wheel will spin up on corner exit if it is not in full contact with the road; a combo of too low a ride height and lack of droop will cause that. The wishbone hitting the chassis on full droop extension will cause this as well as the damper running out of travel. Either can be described as lack of droop.

 

Max himself has said there is a lack of droop in his set up.

 

BTW, I am not blaming any damper on this, just a lack of droop in Max's set up. I can't say what causes it without seeing the car.

Edited by Mike (Cliffie), 23 July 2013 - 03:21 PM.

[Goosenka]

Argh.  The ironing.

I hate it too Chris, especially the linen shirts, what an arse.

Hang them in the bathroom when you shower before you iron them.

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

 

   

If somebody is concerned that this is effecting their driving even though there has never actually been a complaint or evidence of this causing problems then please get in contact with me and we can liase with Nitron to rectify this

   There clearly is a problem with shock body length of the older NTR's. See the people with dents in their upper wishbones...  Putting an extra bumpstop to me is a poor attempt to rectify this, so it would be good if Nitron came up with a proper solution for people who only now recognize a problem they have.   Most customers simply think they bought a product that was designed for a VX and not many of them go with a tape measure afterwards to check if Nitron did their homework properly...  

  Hi Frank.  I think they just copied the OEM shocks in that respect and yes I agree the bump rubber isn't an ideal solution.  I will as promised speak to Nitron about a solution  

I run 46's on my car. They are definitely far better than my 40's, which I had before.   One thing I have not been able to alleviate however, is the amount of wheel spin I get mid bend through fast tight(ish) corners. I have tried several different shock settings which none seem to cure this. I know there are many people running similar higher spec cars who haven't had this particular issue. I have also noticed that the wheels when jacked up don't droop much. Could this prevent the inner wheel to not stay in contact with the track as well as it should?   I'm still waiting to get my car back to get back on track, hopefully that will be soon. I've had an LSD fitted now but that seems OTT...   Simon, I'm happy to lend you my 46's to test?   MaxR

  Max,   I wasn't aware you were having issues....  You have an identical spec to mine and I very much doubt you're running out of droop.  The open length (422mm) of the 46 is nigh on optimal (435mm touches subframe) so much more droop would mean wishbones hitting subframes.  13mm more droop would only amount to around 8mm actual travel in the wishbone before it hits the subframe and personally I think a few mm's clearance for safety/tolerances is worthwhile....    

I remember that issue from Snetterton when I took your car out Max. Yes, the lack of droop is more than likely the cause.

  See above Mike  

  An outside wheel will spin up on corner exit if it is not in full contact with the road; a combo of too low a ride height and lack of droop will cause that. The wishbone hitting the chassis on full droop extension will cause this as well as the damper running out of travel. Either can be described as lack of droop.   Max himself has said there is a lack of droop in his set up.   BTW, I am not blaming any damper on this, just a lack of droop in Max's set up. I can't say what causes it without seeing the car.

Inside wheel you mean no...? The diff will spin up the unloaded wheel for sure if there's enough power which I think is the case. As the open length is sufficient to use the safe limiting wishbone articulation. If you have the optimal amount of droop referring To it as a lack of droop is going to confuse the issue I think. The wishbone is defo not hitting the subframe on droop either Not sure what Max's issue is but it's not a lack of droop as he now thinks.

[chris_uk]

How does max know hes not got enough droop tho? If his are the same spec as jimmys i doubt its a droop issue, more like a lsd issue.

[JG]

I found it quite tricky to get the power down in your car jimmy mid corner. I put that down to lots of power but could be this issue I suppose? (Still loved it though ) I have a set a 2011 40s and would be interested in a nitron answer. At the time I was keen to figure out how they had fixed the problem with top rear wishbones colliding with the chassis and was told that larger bump stops had fixed it, though I gather some are still doing it. Unfortunately my contact at nitron, Marc tapscott has moved onto pastures new and I no longer have a direct line. It's is true though that when you jack up my near standard ride hight (10mm drop or 120f 130r) car the wheel drops very little.

[siztenboots]

Mark Jefferies is the production engineer and the contact given to me by Marc to speak to , or the technical support girls in the office are good too, or you can doorstep Guy

 

[Scuffers]

Max,

 

I wasn't aware you were having issues....  You have an identical spec to mine and I very much doubt you're running out of droop.  The open length (422mm) of the 46 is nigh on optimal (435mm touches subframe) so much more droop would mean wishbones hitting subframes.  13mm more droop would only amount to around 8mm actual travel in the wishbone before it hits the subframe and personally I think a few mm's clearance for safety/tolerances is worthwhile....

 

??

 

435-422=13mm at the damper

 

damper to wheel ratio is approx 1.35, so 13mm at the damper = ~17mm at the wheel...

 

(that said, 422 should be enough assuming not at high ride heights.)