533 replies to this topic

[TazN]

Techie, it doesn't help that the ruler you've stuck on seems to have moved some 2 inches between the pics! Looks to me tho like it's circa 35mm droop?

 

I have standard 40's from Dec 12 so will do a very quick measurement similar to the above tonight.

[techieboy]

Techie, it doesn't help that the ruler you've stuck on seems to have moved some 2 inches between the pics! Looks to me tho like it's circa 35mm droop?   I have standard 40's from Dec 12 so will do a very quick measurement similar to the above tonight.

The ruler hasn't moved anywhere, the car has. The car has been jacked up until the inner shoulder of the tyre was a cigarette papers height off the ground.

[techieboy]

No need to measure closed length, only open Techie yours are 395's sorry. Very little rebound there!!!

Got extra bump travel though, thanks to the dents in the wishbones.

[badgerade]

So to get an indication, is jacking the car up and measuring the gap sufficient?

[Dave E]

Doesn't matter where just measure to the same point both times

[Exmantaa]

Normally it is a good indication, see Techie's magic ruler, But it's very depending on your static ride height; If you run the shorty's very low, you have almost no bump travel but quite some droop. (and most likely loose springs on full rebound)

Better is to remove a wheel and measure the open shock length. (need some "eyeing" to get the bolt centers fairly accurate)

 

[techieboy]

I reckon the fully open length of my piston/rod is 70mm before it makes contact with the bump stop. No idea how much that compresses, so say 10mm compression to give an overall 80mm of travel between fully open and fully closed. Think that ties in with what has already been said.

[TazN]

 

Techie, it doesn't help that the ruler you've stuck on seems to have moved some 2 inches between the pics! Looks to me tho like it's circa 35mm droop?   I have standard 40's from Dec 12 so will do a very quick measurement similar to the above tonight.

The ruler hasn't moved anywhere, the car has. The car has been jacked up until the inner shoulder of the tyre was a cigarette papers height off the ground.

 

Either I'm having one of those days (highly likely tbh) or I don't follow (highly likely today as well!)

 

You've taped a ruler to the clam. First pic it is at 24.5" second is at 26.5".... and I've just realised that's from the floor? I think I need to have a word with myself   nothing to see here.....

[techieboy]

Design specs aside, Nitron make a bloody good quality product though. 7 years and just under 40k miles, they still look pretty good and haven't dissolved like the 6 year old Bilsteins that came off. Spring platforms still in one piece and adjust as needed and all of the clicks still appear to be available on the adjuster plus no knocking or wheezing (like some other sometimes zero mile options).

[Zoobeef]

Guessing I have 40's on?



They are 395s with 1 bumpstop. Guessing I should add myself to the other list.

[Dave E]

Ok, so fully open mine are 390mm and I have 35mm of droop which might be partly down to my 110mm ride height.

In the picture it looks more due to the camera angle but it is exactly 390mm, I even used 2 taps to confirm.

[JohnTurbo]

You seem to have an extra knob unless i'm making it up Zoobeef!

[techieboy]

[techieboy]

I forecast a weekend of people removing rear dampers and breaking out the tape measures.

[alexb]

For the fun of it I made up a bracket to lower the top damper mount by 25 mm (that's about right for me, will be different for others). Idea was to use the bolt underneath the rollcage mount, but the nut is welded. I had to sandwitch the bracket between the rollcage mount and subframe. Not sure if that's a good idea. it's just a quick try anyhow to see if I run into any problems.

 

 

I'm not good with metal, so I took a beam of 80x50x3. I'd rather use 4 thick, but couldn't get it. Took the angular grinder and made the bracket. This is how it fits:

 

 

[alexb]

Oops, too quick. Anyhow, just a quick try. You can see from the picture that the upper wishbone now gets close to the subframe. There is still about 6-7 mm there. All the force on the bracket by the damper goes to the original brackets. The extending lip that goes to the rollbar mounting point is to prevent it from rotating. And important to me: I didn't have to drill or weld anything. It's completely reversible.

 

I think it could be a solution, but would very much prefer a solution where the samper bodies are made a little longer

[Exmantaa]

Ah, you made one already!! Can be made a bit more tidy and made stronger with some welded side plates, but this does the job.  

(not sure on clearances there, but can you not rotate the hose to the subframe side for better wheel clearance? And as the shock is on an angle, maybe the new bottom hole has to be slightly more out than the top one. But that's just minor tweaking.)

 

 

And hate to stir in this pot again, but longer dampers is probably only half of the solution, as this new found droop travel can only be used with sufficient spring load. (I do assume people want to keep their current ride height...)

So the spring perch will have to be set higher and without quite soft springs or helpers, the spring can become loose at full droop.

For me no problem, but it has to be considered of when you decide to lengthen your shocks... 

 

Edited by Exmantaa, 26 July 2013 - 05:25 PM.

[JohnTurbo]

Nobody with the short shocks should want to keep their ride height!

[Exmantaa]

I mean chassis ride height from the ground...

[Crabash]

Exmantaa, that was my prob with the ones you have, full droop at anything under 135 or so and spring was loose. Could have just added helpers as you plan to but I bought some 46's instead.