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#41 Andrew aka Stuwy

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 01:41 PM

It's all swings and roundabouts... JG ran a full NA Miltek system and still hit 258bhp iirc? He is now running a Tullet manifold, Tullet cat (2.5) and a miltek tubby backbox and is at 262bhp (and more noise). I'm running 2.5 piper cat with standard manifold, with a 2.5 2bular backbox and hit 261. Others are running standard cat and even a VSE (goose) and he hit 250bhp. So, go figure!

I was running standard manifold + cat and a regal BB and hit 250

 

:lol:



#42 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:39 PM

It's all swings and roundabouts... JG ran a full NA Miltek system and still hit 258bhp iirc? He is now running a Tullet manifold, Tullet cat (2.5) and a miltek tubby backbox and is at 262bhp (and more noise). I'm running 2.5 piper cat with standard manifold, with a 2.5 2bular backbox and hit 261. Others are running standard cat and even a VSE (goose) and he hit 250bhp. So, go figure!

I was running standard manifold + cat and a regal BB and hit 250   :lol:
I was also running standard manifold cat and tullet back box, But the cat decided to go for a run

#43 Steve.i.am

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 08:32 PM

Made a start on getting the rear clam off this evening. Forum good egg Samjeev popped over to lend a hand and moral support - most welcome fella. Made fair progress and will continue tomorrow. 

 

2 of the bolts in the boot floor are just turning so we'll have to revisit those.

 

About the roof panel - at the back of the roof - how far does this have to be rotated up to get the clam out? Is this enough...?

 

Posted Image

 

It really doesn't want to move up much more than this without (it seems) removing the headrest cover things. ??

 

 



#44 smiley

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 08:49 PM

 

It really doesn't want to move up much more than this without (it seems) removing the headrest cover things. ??

 

 

 

Fine like that.

It´s just clinging onto the rubbers and the antenna wiring.

 

Forget about the headrest cover things. Not related.


Edited by smiley, 10 July 2013 - 08:49 PM.


#45 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 08:52 PM

It will be the soft top brackets only 1 bolt on each

#46 Steve.i.am

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 09:03 PM

 

 

It really doesn't want to move up much more than this without (it seems) removing the headrest cover things. ??

 

 

 

Fine like that.

It´s just clinging onto the rubbers and the antenna wiring.

 

Forget about the headrest cover things. Not related.

 

 

Good news - thanks  thumbsup



#47 Steve.i.am

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 09:06 PM

It will be the soft top brackets only 1 bolt on each

 

Yep, we took those off already Chris 



#48 2deano5

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 06:33 AM

This may be a silly question, but you have taken the 4 bolts on the inside above the rear screen off as well?

 

Those 4, the two in the photo and the 2 for the soft top brackets (remove the brackets as well) and there should be no reason it won't come off?

 



#49 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 02:14 PM

Steve are you going Dutch



#50 Steve.i.am

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 02:58 PM

This may be a silly question, but you have taken the 4 bolts on the inside above the rear screen off as well?

 

Those 4, the two in the photo and the 2 for the soft top brackets (remove the brackets as well) and there should be no reason it won't come off?

 

 

Yep we did take those 4 bolts out. Anyways, looks like it comes up far enough so fingers crossed it'll be fine.



#51 Steve.i.am

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:01 PM

Steve are you going Dutch

 

Sadly nobody could be persuaded to pay half the conversion cost.

Anyway, I do know what you mean and I'm afraid no - it'll be just a courtnay mapping job. Although I have been reading your thread and that software looks really interesting. 



#52 Steve.i.am

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:09 PM

I wipped off the manifold endplate and got it sent off to Dave for the dual pass treatment - well, its a cheap mod and might as well.

 

Decided I should really swap the laminovas around to suit the altered flow (even though there is some debate on whether or not its really necessary). So before:

 

Posted Image

 

And after..

 

Posted Image

 

Shout anyone if that looks wrong.

 

 



#53 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 04:10 PM

 

Steve are you going Dutch

 

Sadly nobody could be persuaded to pay half the conversion cost.

Anyway, I do know what you mean and I'm afraid no - it'll be just a courtnay mapping job. Although I have been reading your thread and that software looks really interesting. 

 

 

 

Hope you dont regret it,

 

I believe its saved me a fortune already, 

And i think even techie would agree 



#54 Steve.i.am

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 08:45 PM

Rear clam... 

 

So I got everything undone on the rear clam except 2 turning bolts in the boot floor, and 1 of the captive nuts in fuel cap surround was turning. Luckily this was undone enough that I could push the bolt in and just get a spanner on the nut and get it undone. Relief.

 

Samjeev popped over again this evening and ground the heads off the two boot floor bolts with my dremmel.

 

And the clam is off. 

 

Posted Image

 

This weekend I should have a bit of time to crack on - so the aim is to get the chargecooler rad installed, the pipes run down the sill and the ECU off and sent to CS (Sorry Chris!).

 



#55 CHILL Gone DUTCH

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 09:17 PM

TUT TUT

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#56 Steve.i.am

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 07:09 PM

Popped the rad out just now so I can fit up the charge cooler rad to it - quick question - the original plastic supports that the standard rad sits on:

 

Posted Image

 

You remove these right? And the two rads sit directly onto the crash box? If so, is it just a prise-em-off method of removal??

 

Ta.



#57 CocoPops

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 07:58 PM

Yep. A Stanley knife and a very sharp chisel.... And time.... thumbsup

#58 Steve.i.am

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 08:14 PM

Cool thanks.

 

Just sorting the twin fans out that are on the pro-alloy chargecooler rad. Had to take em off and rotate 180 degrees to get the wiring to exit in the correct direction. I noticed that the blade spin direction of the new fans is the opposite way to the original single fan - however the blades on the twin fans look angled the other way. So presume this is correct - they'll still blow up through the rads?

 

So I'm going to cut the socket off the original fan wiring, cut the 2 sockets off the twin fans (discard those), and wire the new fans together in parallel onto the old socket keeping the polarity the same. If that makes sense?

 

Sound OK?


Edited by Steve.i.am, 12 July 2013 - 08:16 PM.


#59 smiley

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 08:40 PM

Here's how you can test your fans setup, if you don't have a scangauge.

 

 



#60 Steve.i.am

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Posted 13 July 2013 - 06:18 PM

Here's how you can test your fans setup, if you don't have a scangauge.

 

 

Ah great - I'll give that a try - cheers.







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