244 replies to this topic

[CocoPops]

Or for a better solution long term, find the grey/blue wire under the centre console and ground it. This allows fan switch on on demand.

[Steve.i.am]

Only mad fools and Englishmen would be out working on their cars in this heat today - being both - I did. Must crack on like...

 

With the twin fans on the chargecooler rad wired up, I set about getting the rad surround completely off so I could remove the original plastic rad supports - sharp chisel at the ready. Can I just say at this point I am not best friends with whoever thought it was a good idea to run the brake pipes right in front of the leftmost rad surround crosshead bolt. It is impossible to undo it - no? Stubby screwdriver - no room. Philips bit on a small ratchet? nope. Allen type key but with a philips end? nope. Had to dremel the C clip in half and undo it from the inside by turning that! I have obviously missed a trick here?

 

Oh well, once the rad surround was off and the plastic rad supports chiselled off, I offered up the rads to get an idea of where they sit.

 

 

When I bolted the rads together, I spaced them a few mm with some washers thinking it might help reduce heat xfer from the main rad to the chargecooler rad. Might not make much difference but why not..

 

 

So new exit holes cut in the rad surround for the chargecooler inlet/outlet and rads mounted ready to go back onto the car.

 

 

And back in place..

 

 

All the fixings were then put back into the rad surround and the loom returned into place and affixed - except that sodding bolt by the brake pipes. I had about 5 goes at it, swore a lot and left it for another day. How the feck do you get that bolt in there?

 

BTW - before I drained the system I gave the rad hose (in the pic above - with the bleed bolt on it) a squeeze and it is leaking all around the bleed screw. This seems a common problem. I guess I should replace this hose while everything is apart? What's best to replace it with? OE? 

 

So next up was running the chargecooler pips down the sill..

 

 

Edited by Steve.i.am, 13 July 2013 - 06:42 PM.

[Steve.i.am]

Read a few different methods for getting these water hoses down through the sill. This is what I ended up doing..

 

Remove sill cover from pax side - to reveal the hole at the front - into which I could just fit my hand in.

 

Got a 2m length of flexible 13mm plastic pipe for a couple of quid from Wickes - this was to ram up the sill from the back to the front - in the usual fashion for this job. I shoved the pipe up through the sill entrance at the rear until it got to the front. It didn't seem to feel like it was going through any foam blocks or anything like that - I suspect it passed underneath? Anyway, once pushed right up I could stick a hand down the hole in the sill and pull it up & out..

 

 

Then I drilled the holes that the hose would pass through and shoved the first bit of hose in..

 

 

I could then fish the end of this hose out through the hole in the sill - then gradually pull a couple of meters through into the car. I drilled a hole in the end of the plastic pipe, and the hose. Joined them together with a cable tie and started drawing the hose down the sill by pulling the plastic pipe back out from the back..

 

 

As I was on my own it was just a case of pushing a foot or so of hose into the hole, pulling it through from the back, repeat, until all had been pulled through. Was a lot easier than I was expecting. Repeated for both pipes then grommets and sealant applied..

 

 

Hoorah - glad that bit is out the way. Doubtful how much tinkering time I will have tomorrow due to family stuff, but the ECU will be coming off at the least. Oh, about that - daft question.. How do you unplug the 2 big plugs on it? Pull up on the metal 'levers' that are over them? I tried this but they just feel like they're going to bend.

 

cheers.

 

 

Edited by Steve.i.am, 13 July 2013 - 07:02 PM.

[fezzasus]

you've got to remove the security bracket before you remove the ECU plugs.

 

Also, i'll race you: http://www.vx220.org...rk-today/page-4

 

[Steve.i.am]

you've got to remove the security bracket before you remove the ECU plugs.

 

Also, i'll race you: http://www.vx220.org...rk-today/page-4

 

 

Aha - err, so what is the security bracket? And no withholding information cos you're racing me 

[Arno]

What's best to replace it with? OE? 

 

 

Nope..

 

People like Eliseparts and Elise-shop do nice replacements:

 

http://www.elisepart...radiator-hoses/

 

http://www.elise-sho...0-p-502179.html

 

Replace both now you have good access and fit good stainless steel jubiulee clips. Should be good for ages afterwards.

 

 

Bye, Arno.

[Steve.i.am]

What's best to replace it with? OE? 
 

 
Nope..
 
People like Eliseparts and Elise-shop do nice replacements:
 
http://www.elisepart...radiator-hoses/
 
http://www.elise-sho...0-p-502179.html
 
Replace both now you have good access and fit good stainless steel jubiulee clips. Should be good for ages afterwards.
 
 
Bye, Arno.

Yeah sounds good thanks I'll do this.

[Steve.i.am]

you've got to remove the security bracket before you remove the ECU plugs.
 
Also, i'll race you: http://www.vx220.org...rk-today/page-4
 

 
Aha - err, so what is the security bracket? And no withholding information cos you're racing me 

Ok, read the TIS and makes sense now.

[Kieran McC]

Steve check your front towing bracket at the same time as they rot

[Steve.i.am]

Steve check your front towing bracket at the same time as they rot

 

Yeah I was looking at that yesterday - looks horrible. May take it out and give it a clean up.

 

Got all the intake system off this morning.. Airbox, inlet pipe, throttle body, inlet manifold, fuel rail and alternator (which was 120A - but I have a 2nd hand 100A ready to be modified to go in). The inlet studs came out no problem..

 

 

When i took the inlet manifold off I wasn't too impressed with the rubbish in the inlet ports..

 

 

Can only assume this crept in as I pulled the manifold off?? - cleaned them out and taped them over.

 

I need to order an EGR valve blanking plate off z22se - the one I got from Courtenays blanks off at the cylinder head side - didn't realise you actually need 2 blanking plates.

[fezzasus]

It'll be crap sat on top of the manifold, the same happened with mine when I took it off. You'll only need to blank the EGR at one point to stop it from working.

[ArticMonkey]

Make sure you get the cheater as well.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Make sure you get the cheater as well.

I have a unused one that I didn't need because I can switch it of with the Dutch ECU

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 14 July 2013 - 07:43 PM.

[Steve.i.am]

 

Make sure you get the cheater as well.

I have a unused one that I didn't need because I can switch it of with the Dutch ECU

 

 

Good that dutch software..

 

Yeah I got the cheater - just didn't realise the EGR blanking plate that Courtenay sell blanks off the exit at the cylinder head - the actual EGR valve itself, if removed, requires a different blanking plate. I could just keep the EGR valve in place - but yeah it looks a bit shite.

 

I thought I'd make a start getting the 12 year old exhaust off - not too many rusted bolts to expect then..

 

The three manifold to downpipe nuts came off no probs actually. The downpipe to ubend was obviously a lost cause. Two of the accessible ones drilled/dremelled off..

 

 

Fine - but can't get a drill on this one - and a bit tricky with the dremel as well. Might be a hacksaw job?

 

 

Once the downpipe and backbox are off, the downpipe will have the pre-cat drilled out and kept and a Milltek turbo backbox is going on.

Edited by Steve.i.am, 14 July 2013 - 07:56 PM.

[Andrew aka Stuwy]

Just drop the system in one. No need to split the u bend.

[Steve.i.am]

Just drop the system in one. No need to split the u bend.

 

Yeah well the ubend had to come off anyway as I'm keeping the stock down pipe section. 

 

Taking 12 year old exhausts off a VX sucks. Only had an hour or so this evening but..

 

The downpipe came out, but there's no way the backbox was coming out with it in situ. The clamp on the upend to backbox was on there solid, and the hanger bracket nuts rusted badly. I just took the whole heat shield surround out with the backbox inside it in the end so that I could turn it over and get more access. This made it 100x easier and backbox was finally liberated.

 

Oh well, but now with so much access to the rear engine mount, it seemed an ideal opportunity to put the poly inserts in - even if they do melt - but tbh as I'm keeping the original downpipe it should be fine..

 

 

 

Coutenay sent me a 1270 belt - been ready various threads and the feeling is this is a bit on the tight side. I'm putting a new tensioner on so popped down the local motor factors and got a 1285 in case. Will modify my 100A alternator tomorrow evening and fit that and the new idler pulley etc. Might even get the manfold on..

Edited by Steve.i.am, 15 July 2013 - 08:27 PM.

[CocoPops]

Are you fitting front and rear poly mounts? If not, I'd move that one to the front.

[Steve.i.am]

Are you fitting front and rear poly mounts? If not, I'd move that one to the front.

 

Yeah, had already done the front.

[CocoPops]

Just with the recent pics of melted rear poly mounts, thought it worth mentioning. Deffo check the heat shields when it goes back together.

[Kieran McC]

Steve check the toe links, Dont worry mate we will spend your cash for you LOL