244 replies to this topic

[Steve.i.am]

Just with the recent pics of melted rear poly mounts, thought it worth mentioning. Deffo check the heat shields when it goes back together.

 

Yeah defo. It was those melted mount reports that put me in 2 minds whether to do the rear - but it was just sitting there, calling me to take it off and shove them in. So to speak.

 

Quick question about the fuel tank vent pipe - which attached to the standard mani via that square connector. Seen this routed on other conversions to either the redundant MAP sensor hole in the top of the charger, or to the brass pipe on the rear of the throttle body. Was planning on the latter, but the original pipe won't reach to there (the pipe is semi rigid (steady)). Does this pipe have to be replaced with any particular type of hose? Fuel hose? Or will any rubber hose do?

 

cheers.

[Steve.i.am]

Steve check the toe links, Dont worry mate we will spend your cash for you LOL

 

LOL - Mate, I was looking at those as well and thought - ah while this is all off I may as well uprate those. Trouble is this will carry on forever.. And if I did those it'd need another geo.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Just cut down and leave open to atmosphere Will need to block up the throttle body brass hole

[Exmantaa]

 

 

Quick question about the fuel tank vent pipe - which attached to the standard mani via that square connector. Seen this routed on other conversions to either the redundant MAP sensor hole in the top of the charger, or to the brass pipe on the rear of the throttle body. Was planning on the latter, but the original pipe won't reach to there (the pipe is semi rigid (steady)). Does this pipe have to be replaced with any particular type of hose? Fuel hose? Or will any rubber hose do?

 

cheers.

 

 

I cut that pipe/hose from that connector and use some straight rigid 8mm black plastic airpressure pipe. Connect to the connector with a piece of fuelhose and same to coal cannister solenoid. Done and OEM. ;-)

[Steve.i.am]

 

 

 

Quick question about the fuel tank vent pipe - which attached to the standard mani via that square connector. Seen this routed on other conversions to either the redundant MAP sensor hole in the top of the charger, or to the brass pipe on the rear of the throttle body. Was planning on the latter, but the original pipe won't reach to there (the pipe is semi rigid (steady)). Does this pipe have to be replaced with any particular type of hose? Fuel hose? Or will any rubber hose do?

 

cheers.

 

 

I cut that pipe/hose from that connector and use some straight rigid 8mm black plastic airpressure pipe. Connect to the connector with a piece of fuelhose and same to coal cannister solenoid. Done and OEM. ;-)

 

 

Like the sound of that. Will look into it. I think I'd rather have this connected up than open to atmosphere to be honest.

 

Only an hour or so for tinkering again this evening after work. Modified my 2nd hand 100A alternator as per how I've seen on here:

 

 

Put this in the car, along with the Courtenay idler pulley. 

 

EGR valve bolts refusing to undo - so rather than force a rounded or sheared bolt, Samjeev offered to pop over tomorrow with a blow torch to get some heat on it. May also have a go at drilling out the precat on my standard downpipe. Oh and also need to fit new tensioner. Mr Samjeev may bring his Stage 4 Tubby over so I can have a go in it. Eeek!

 

Need to get some bolts for the SC inlet manifold support bracket - think they're M10 but didn't have any long enough.

 

Bit of a slow plod during the week as I'm at work, but am off next week so fingers crossed momentum will pick up then to get it done.

Edited by Steve.i.am, 16 July 2013 - 09:18 PM.

[CocoPops]

You heading to the national? You still want the air filter bracket?

[Steve.i.am]

You heading to the national? You still want the air filter bracket?

 

Yeah I'll still have the bracket Lee if its available - unfortunately not going to national so can't collect it then.  

[Steve.i.am]

Brian popped over this evening in his stage 4 turbo and offered me a drive. Excellent. Except I broke it within 3 miles. Sorry. Just as we were approaching a bit of road where it could be let loose, it stopped. Obviously could sense an NA driver at the wheel and the car said 'no'. Got it going again and got it back in limp mode. Can I have another go when it's working mate? I won't bust it next time. Hope you got it home ok.

[techieboy]

Just as we were approaching a bit of road where it could be let loose, it stopped. Obviously could sense an NA driver at the wheel and the car said 'no'.

 

That's just turdo lag.

[Steve.i.am]

Quick question..

 

The pro-alloy CC rad - the coolant flow direction through it - does it matter. In other words - can the inlet/outlet hoses be connected any way around? Wouldn't have thought it matters but just checking.

 

Ta.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Quick question..   The pro-alloy CC rad - the coolant flow direction through it - does it matter. In other words - can the inlet/outlet hoses be connected any way around? Wouldn't have thought it matters but just checking.   Ta.

You want the cooler water traveling least distance as possible

[Steve.i.am]

 

You want the cooler water traveling least distance as possible

 

 

Yeah ok makes sense - thanks.

[Samwise]

Brian popped over this evening in his stage 4 turbo and offered me a drive. Excellent. Except I broke it within 3 miles. Sorry. Just as we were approaching a bit of road where it could be let loose, it stopped. Obviously could sense an NA driver at the wheel and the car said 'no'. Got it going again and got it back in limp mode. Can I have another go when it's working mate? I won't bust it next time. Hope you got it home ok.

Steve - Got home ok. Engine light disappeared and turbo started spinning again, so hopefully no lasting effects, except when I finally got in expansion tank did a Vesuvius again all over garage floor. Will this weekend pull out the aux coolant pump and see if I can restore it.

 

As we discussed, reckon the problem was the fuel pump fuse coming loose following your keen line around the round-a-bout and my bottle of emergency water in the boot meeting head-on. Shame, as I was looking forward to being launched up the A272!

 

Perhaps we can have another go next week. I'll pre-book the RAC 

[Steve.i.am]

Glad you got back ok mate - and no permanent EML and limp mode. Yeah we'll go for take 2 soon.

 

Again only an hour or so available this evening.. Replaced the tensioner for peace of mind..

 

 

Finally got the right size bolts to mount the inlet manifold support bracket (they're 50mm M8 for future reference). And before the manifold goes on I ran a +12v power feed for the chargecooler pump off the starter motor main supply. Being careful to route that lead safely as it will be unfused until the pump fused relay which will be mounted up by the charge cooler header tank..

 

 

Next job on the list at the moment is drill out the precat on the down pipe. 

 

 

I'm off work next week so progress should begin moving on lot more quickly. Just waiting for my modified manifold sideplate to come back from Dave and the mani can go on. In the meantime there's always the wiring to tackle.

Edited by Steve.i.am, 18 July 2013 - 08:27 PM.

[fezzasus]

Looking good, I changed my tensioner too, well worth it because mine didn't re-tension and the casing was cracked. Drilling out the pre-cat is a pain, good luck!

[Nev]

Crikey that's a dense looking substrate, good job to get rid of it if you ask me

[CocoPops]

Good old euro4 malarkey!

[Steve.i.am]

Looking good, I changed my tensioner too, well worth it because mine didn't re-tension and the casing was cracked. Drilling out the pre-cat is a pain, good luck!

 

Cheers - you must be pretty much done now? 

 

Yeah I did have a quick couple of experimental drillings into the pre cat just before I packed up. 3 holes and drill bit overheated and is probably now blunt. Will try a steadier approach trying not to overheat the drill bit next time. Bloody pre cat.

[Nev]

If you can stick it somewhere very hot (like a handy furnace or bonfire!) the brazed bits will just melt and it will fall out.

Edited by Nev, 18 July 2013 - 08:49 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I found a 20mm SDS drill bit work best (not on hammer)

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 18 July 2013 - 09:06 PM.