244 replies to this topic

[Steve.i.am]

Ordered a new map sensor. Researched p1512 and can be caused by connections on relay k18. Checked mine and one of the connectors had fallen out of the relay socket. Ordering an opcom today. Can I clear ecu fault codes by pulling fuse 8?

[siztenboots]

Can I clear ecu fault codes by pulling fuse 8?

yes

[Samwise]

 

So I'll ask the newbie question!

 

Like Steve with his new charge cooler, I have a CC also. Mine looks like it's got plain (mucky, but plain) water in. No anti-freeze. What's the opinion of the good people on the forum. Water or water/coolant mix for best results?

 

Depends if you want it to freeze and split during the winter or not.

 

Fezzasus

 

That's what I would have thought, but see this extract from http://www.chargecoo...ain_page=page_3

their "10 Basic Rulse of Chargecooling":

 

[color=rgb(0,0,0);font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:11px;]6. Coolant - plain water. No ethanol or methanols mixes required. Water has the highest specific heat capacity of all liquids (the amount of energy required to heat the liquid 1 degree), apart from ammonia and liquid hydrogen - but alas ammonia rots aluminium. We do not run our car engine cooling systems on ethanol, so why is this myth about putting it in chargecooler systems talked about? Fluids such as methanols dissipate heat via 'evaporation', due to the fact they have low boiling points. The lower the boiling point of a fluid, the less energy it can absorb, and as this is a 'closed' system, no evaporation would take place.[/color]

[fezzasus]

Yes, for pure performance 100 % water is better, but when it freezes it will crack your charge cooler, so take the slight thermal efficiency hit and add some organic coolant.

 

also, coolant isn't methanol or ethanol based, it's ethylene glycol. i'm not sure where that website gets the information but I wouldn't refer to it as 10 rules. More opinions that taken out of context could be damaging and expensive.

Edited by fezzasus, 24 July 2013 - 10:44 AM.

[Steve.i.am]

Ok - so putting the same coolant mix in my CC system as the engine coolant (ie 50/50 vauxhall coolant) should be OK? Cos thats what I did.

 

Parents over today so not an awful lot going on with the car except:

 

Having found the disconnected wire on the K18 fuse (which I've found is related to the P1512 error I have) I tried to reset the ECU to see if the EML light would stay off. Not having an opcom or odb at the moment I pulled fuse 8 for an hour. Ignition back on and EML light still on. Started engine and still on. I'm not sure the fault codes were actually reset?

 

In the meantime I replaced rivnuts in rear subframe that were turning, and tidied the cutout hole for the fuel pump and made a simple cover for it..

 

 

Glued some foam rubber around the underside edges of the cover to try & insulate it a bit.

 

Wedding to go to tomorrow. First thing this morning I ordered a new MAP sensor. So Friday I'll pop that in and see if it sorts the hesitation issue. Then I guess its a case of cracking on with refitting clams.

 

PS: As it seems opcoms are 7-10 day delivery time, would this ODB2 lead and software (which I can get by Friday) be OK for checking/clearing ecu fault codes? :

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c28425989

 

 

[smiley]

 

PS: As it seems opcoms are 7-10 day delivery time, would this ODB2 lead and software (which I can get by Friday) be OK for checking/clearing ecu fault codes? :

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c28425989

 

 

 

For just reset, pull fuse 8 for a few minutes.

To read code for troubleshooting, and then reset use this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=221039216694

 

Simple and requires no laptop. Just toss in the back of the car.

[techieboy]

PS: As it seems opcoms are 7-10 day delivery time, would this ODB2 lead and software (which I can get by Friday) be OK for checking/clearing ecu fault codes? :
 
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c28425989

Yeah that would be fine and give you 90% of what OpCom offers (just no talking to immobiliser, ABS and airbag ECU's that need OpCom).

You're welcome to borrow my OpCom interface if you want. Can stick it in the post to you tomorrow.

[Steve.i.am]

 

You're welcome to borrow my OpCom interface if you want. Can stick it in the post to you tomorrow.

 

 

Very kind of you - if I get stuck will let you know - but have just gone for this for now..

 

 

To read code for troubleshooting, and then reset use this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=221039216694

 

Simple and requires no laptop. Just toss in the back of the car.

 

 

Yeah that'll do for what i need for now, and like you say handy to carry in the car - ordered one.

 

BTW Was pulling fuse 9, not 8. Read the numbering wrong. Its the heat..

[Steve.i.am]

Fitted new MAP sensor and hesitation gone. So thanks to AF for the steer on that one. Cleared ECU faults codes and ran engine for 20 minutes or so - no EML light.

 

So a couple of steps forward - but annoyingly 1 step back.. Slight coolant leak at the front. Small amount of (cold) coolant emerges down the o/s crash box. And this was when the engine temp had kicked the fans in twice. Since its cold I suspect it is CC coolant and not engine. No leaks at any of the hose joints. Sigh. Surely can't be the new pro alloy CC rad? Off to investigate.

 

 

[2deano5]

Great news steve, did you go for a cable opcom ?

[A-F_20]

Glad its sorted - second hand parts are always a bit of a gamble.

 

 

 

[fezzasus]

I had residual coolant that got tripped in the crash box, i'd leave it a few days and see if it clears up.

[CocoPops]

I had residual coolant that got tripped in the crash box, i'd leave it a few days and see if it clears up.

[A-F_20]

And me - I wells up in the crash structure

[Steve.i.am]

Yeah know what you're saying but wasn't that unfortunately. Dismantled rads out of surround, reconnected and ran engine upto temp. Main engine rad has small leak. Bummer. Oh well better to sort now before it all goes back together. As usual .org help has saved me again. JG and ArcticMonkey came up trumps and I have a new pro alloy rad here ready to go in tomorrow. Mega thanks to you both. This car will go back together soon. Even if I have to hit it with a stick.

[Steve.i.am]

Rads back in and ran up and rechecked for leaks. All good now. Took a bit of bleeding this time. Front clam refitted. Bonnet tried to cut my left ear off doing that. Arch liners, headlights etc back on. Just a couple of things to tidy on the engine tomorrow and rear clam can go back on, interior & seats refitted and undertrays. Nearly there. Oh, had eml light again. P0405. Egr low voltage. Cleared that and ran again with cheater removed and egr valve plugged in and didn't come back. I'll probably run it for now with the egr valve on it. May have an iffy cheater? Not much though that I can see can go wrong with a couple of diodes and resistors? Should be drivable tomorrow.

[Steve.i.am]

Tidied a few bits and bobs in the engine bay and got the rear clam back on. Drove the car 

 

Just a 20 minute shake down. So far seems OK. I mean compared to what I'm used to it fairly buggers off when the whine chimes in. There is a kind of 'fluttering' noise from the intake on part throttle. Is this normal?

 

I had an EML light on due to the EGR cheater so I'm running it for now with the EGR valve connected. Hadn't cleared the error code yet so EML light was still on. But then stopped off to put some petrol in it and after that the EML light didn't come back on. Has it just cleared itself? I thought you had to manually reset any error codes that cause EML? Strangely, the ABS light also went off at the same time. I have an ABS disabler switch so the ABS is always off and light always on.

 

Car back together..

 

 

One thing that's annoying me a bit is the tail pipes are not in the middle!..

 

 

I've got the backbox as hard over to the offside as possible. The offside hanger bracket is pushed over as far as it will go but they're still not central. Its not that I'm massively anal about these sorts of things, just a bit worried it'll scorch the clam on the side its closest. There's about 5mm gap at the closest point. Need to worry about that?

 

Things left to do:

 

Fit parcel shelf trim

Fit seats

Bonnet needs aligning

Fit undertrays

[Bargi]

Fluttering is normal and nothing to worry about

[smiley]

 

 

I had an EML light on due to the EGR cheater so I'm running it for now with the EGR valve connected. Hadn't cleared the error code yet so EML light was still on. But then stopped off to put some petrol in it and after that the EML light didn't come back on. Has it just cleared itself? I thought you had to manually reset any error codes that cause EML?

 

 

I heared some can clear after 7 times ignition start. Not sure which though.

[fezzasus]

Good work, glad you've managed to get it back together quickly. I found that was the slowest part because I was eager to use it.